General Cultural Suggestions 
Following are a few vital facts pertinent to 
the subject of successful chrysanthemum cul- 
ture: 
SOIL CONDITIONING—The chrysanthemum 
is a gross feeder. It is, therefore, necessary that 
the soil in which it is to be planted contains a 
sufficient amount of plant food to supply, with- 
out the aid of too frequent applications of 
liquid or commercial fertilizer, the demands of 
a long growing season. If in doubt as to the 
fertility of your land, we suggest that you work 
in with it a thoroughly rotted manure, well in 
advance of planting date and in quantities com- 
mensurate with the soil in question. Loose, 
sandy soil, particularly when of a nature un- 
questionably deficient in organic matter, should 
receive a heavier application per unit of space 
than that required by the same unit of space in 
a heavier and more productive soil. 
The nature and amount of plant food to be 
used during the growing season can best be 
judged by the character of your soil and the 
variety and condition of the plants to be treated. 
Avoid the hazards of over-fertilization. Discon- 
tinue feeding when buds begin to show color. 
PLANTING—Early planting is an important 
factor in the timely formation of a robust root 
system, a prerequisite to the growth of strong, 
sturdy plants and quality flowers. When sea- 
sonal blooms are desired at an advanced date 
it is doubly important that planting be done 
early in order that plants may attain sufficient 
height to permit the taking of crown buds. (SEE 
BUD SELECTION.) 
WATERING—Variation in the composition 
of soils and variation in climatic conditions, due 
to geographical differences, render the matter 
of watering a problem for local study and solu- 
tion. However, here are a few salient points 
ever to be kept in mind if you are to avoid the 
consequences of a careless, haphazard plan of 
irrigation. 
We cannot emphasize too strongly the neces- 
sity of keeping the roots of your plants moist 
at all times. To subject them to a drought, 
however slight, will cause a sudden check in 
growth, a setback that may later be responsible 
for a host of trouble—the appearance of rust, 
mildew, blighted or blackened foliage and the 
premature hardening of wood, premature set- 
ting of buds with a sequence of partially de- 
veloped and misshaped flowers. 
Avoid overwatering as it is apt to lead to 
equally disastrous results. Confine your irri- 
gation activities to a time of day sufficiently 
early to allow superficial drying of foliage be- 
fore nightfall. 
STOPPING—When the young plant has be- 
come firmly established—normally within a pe- 
riod of two weeks from planting date—pinch 
out the top. This simple operation is known as 
“stopping” and will bring about the formation 
of three or more new shoots, the subsequent 
handling of which must be governed by what- 
ever plan you may have for their future dis- 
position. In order to dwarf your plants, make 
them bush out, and to increase their yield of 
blooms it may be necessary to “stop” them a 
number of times, the proper number to be 
determined by the particular variety of plant 
in need of such attention and the specific result 
desired. 
RESTRICTION OF LATERAL GROWTH—A 
plant, when allowed to retain no more than 
one, two or three stems, will develop much 
larger blooms than it will if permitted to grow 
without restriction. This is especially true of 
the large flowering types—exhibitions, com- 
mercials, spidery sorts and some of the larger 
anemones. 
When the plant’s energy, governed as it is 
by the amount of needed elements it assim- 
ilates from the soil, is used in feeding a pro- 
fusion of growth, we cannot well hope to obtain 
maximum results as regards size, color or shape 
of bloom. 
Excellent results may be had by raising four, 
Six or eight disbudded blooms on plants of the 
larger pompon, anemone and single types suit- 
able for the purpose, the number to be chosen 
varying with the type and variety of plant. 
BUD SELECTION—Early in August many 
varieties produce a cluster of buds, the central 
and larger of which is termed the early or 
crown and the encircling buds vegetative. For 
exhibition types and many of the large com- 
Se it is desirable to “take” the crown 
ud. 
While the term “take the bud” may be en- 
shrouded in ambiguity, it simply involves the 
mechanics of removing the buds not to be used 
and reserving the one chosen as the best for 
development. Therefore, if you wish to “take” 
the crown bud, you remove the encircling buds 
and reserve the one in the center. 
If it is desirable to use what is commonly 
known as the terminal bud, the foregoing oper- 
ation is reversed. The central or crown bud 
and all but one of the encircling or vegetative 
buds are removed. From the remaining bud 
will spring a vegetative growth that will in 
time produce another cluster of buds, the cen- 
tral one of which should be “taken” or reserved 
and all others removed. 
All crown buds, excepting those from plants 
of an extremely early blooming habit,* appear- 
ing in the months of May, June and July, 
should be removed along with all excess lat- 
eral growth. It is also necessary to keep all 
axilary and basal growth broken out. The 
plant should be given a thorough going over 
at frequent intervals in order to keep it free 
from all superfluous growth, thus insuring a 
minimum waste of plant energy. 
SPRAYING—tThe chrysanthemum is not im- 
mune to damage frequently caused by the un- 
controlled activities of a variety of common 
insect pests; neither is it secure against the 
inroads of malignant fungi that may find in 
it a beneficent host unless preventive measures 
are taken. It is therefore wise and prudent to 
start spraying early. 
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