TEN OAKS NURSERY AND GARDENS 3 
Successful Culture For All Acid Loving Plants 
All Acid Loving Plants, Azaleas, Holly, Rhododendron and most all that hold their leaves over winter 
SOILS AND ITS PREPARATION—Soils good for 
growing azaleas and their companions occur naturally 
in many places; in fact, it is borne out that by far the 
greater proportion will produce good plants with little 
preparation. Where soils are not suitable, there is 
usually no great difficulty in making them so without 
much trouble or expense. Soils suitable for azaleas 
should be in good mechanical condition, open and fri- 
able; it should be acid, well drained, moist, and fur- 
nished with organic matter in quantities. 
All that is necessary in preparing for the planting 
is to see that drainage is adequate—where water does 
not stand on top of the ground for hours after a rain- 
storm is generally a well-drained place. Next is to 
see that the soil is proper; for the very best results, 
we dig the hole that is to receive the plant twice as 
deep and twice as wide as the nursery ball on the 
plants, then cart away all the soil and make up the 
soil that we are going to plant the plants with, as 
follows: one part peat moss, one part coarse sand, one 
part good garden soil, mixing with this, half a handful 
of cottonseed meal, or a good special azalea fertilizer, 
not both. When this is thoroughly mixed, use it to 
plant your plants with entirely, both under and around 
the plant, watering well as you fill with soil to the level 
of the ball; never plant deeper than it was in the 
nursery. If your soil is sandy, leave out sand in your 
mixture; if your soil is sticky clay, make your hole 
larger, so you may have a larger amount of the proper 
soil mixture around your plant. When the plants are 
completely planted and thoroughly watered, mulch the 
top of the ground with four or five inches of peat moss 
to keep the ground cool, moist, and acid; add to this 
mulch every Spring and Fall to keep it at this level. 
Never use lime or allow lime to be used on or near 
any of these plants. It may mean their death. Well de- 
cayed oak leaves, not maple, may be used in place of 
peat moss if it is handy. 
PLANTING BROAD LEAF EVERGREENS—It is 
easy to plant and at almost any time of the year, except 
when there is too much frost in the ground, but when 
you dig them or bring them home from the nursery, 
get them back into the soil as soon as possible; never 
let the roots dry out. If you plant in hot or dry weather, 
it is very wise to shade the plants as well as water for a 
few weeks until they are well established. The distance 
apart to plant will depend upon the type you buy; 
always ask for that information or study the descrip- 
tive list. 
CULTURE AND CARE—Because the greater mass 
of roots is found in the top few inches of soil, cultiva- 
tion with hoe is not advisable. You will not only cut 
the roots, but disturb the mulch of peat moss that we 
advised you to keep around the plants at all times. 
Pull any weeds that grow by hand, and shake off the 
peat that clings to their roots. Water heavy during 
July and August for your azaleas and rhododendron 
are making buds at that time for the following year. 
If your water comes from a deep well, and you are in 
a limestone country, add a little sulphur to your soil 
every Spring and Fall. Much damage is done by sun- 
shine following a night of low temperature. This can be 
prevented by shading in the late Fall and Winter with 
burlap on stakes, lath frames, pine branches, or trim- 
mings from your evergreens. It is important not to feed 
after June 15th, so as plants will harden up in late 
summer for the coming winter. Protect all small plants 
the first winter, with fruit baskets or burlap from winds. 
A cold frame is still better. A plant is rarely killed 
after it has become acclimated. 
ABOUT BANDED PLANTS—AIll our 2”-4” plants 
once again this year are grown in a Plant Band 
in pure peat so they handle and ship perfectly in 
our new special box. The plants keep on growing in 
transit and don’t have to be rushed into the ground 
upon arrival. Do not be dismayed if band is somewhat 
decayed, it means the roots have made a heavy growth. 
When ready to plant just give the band a twist and 
off it comes. Water in the plant well and mulch heavy 
and keep mulched. Also protect all small plants in the 
winter from wind and sun and in the summer from 
the sun by a lath shade or something similar. For 
best results protect the first two years. 
FEEDING—Use only special fertilizers, made by all 
the reliable firms, for Broadleaf Evergreens only, or 
cottonseed meal is excellent food. Sprinkle lightly 
around each plant out to the furtherest branch and 
water heavy at once, twice a year, March and late May 
or June. Top dressing late in fall with organic helps. 
Do not disturb the mulch by hoeing or raking the food 
into the soil. 
PRUNING AZALEAS AND RHODODENDRONS— 
Little pruning is needed for garden azaleas other than 
to keep the long unsightly shoots off and a regular 
shaping up according to taste, but all pruning must 
be done before June 15th, or better still, just after the 
last flowers have died in the Spring. Christmas is a 
good time to prune all Holly. Keep Yew pruned heavy 
twice each year. Mid summer and Mid winter. 
PESTS AND DISEASES—Healthy plants that have 
been well fed and watered have few pests, but if you 
have neglected the above, here are a few that you may 
