BRIEFS ON SNAP CULTURE 
Soils 
Good Snaps can be grown in a wide variety of soils. As a gen- 
eral rule any soil that will grow good Mums will grow good 
Snaps. The really important point is that it contain plenty of 
organic matter. While this may take the form of manure, be sure 
it is well rotted. As a matter of fact, peat is generally preferred 
because the bacteria which are necessary to decay manure rob 
the soil of essential plant nutrients. 
The amount of organic matter which a soil needs depends upon 
its basic structure. Heavy, clay-like soils will need more than 
loose, sandy sorts. If an average good garden or field soil is to 
be used, one part of organic matter should be incorporated with 
each two or three parts of soil. To this should be added three 
pounds of 20% superphosphate per 100 square feet of bench area 
before steaming. Other than this we prefer to depend upon 
regular feedings as soil tests indicate their need rather than to 
load the soil with too much fertilizer to start with. 
Sterilizing 
We like to steam sterilize our soil before benching, too. It cleans 
up disease organisms, kills soil-borne weed seeds and insects and 
tends to improve the soil’s physical condition. Low (8 to 10 lbs.) 
steam pressure does the job for us. Holding soil temperatures at 
180° for half an hour after this temperature has been reached is 
all it takes. After sterilizing, a heavy leaching with clear water 
will tend to prevent an excessive build-up of nitrates which might 
injure Snap roots. 
Seed Sowing 
Vermiculite, peat, or soil and peat mixtures all make satisfactory 
materials for germinating Snap seed. We like to have the flats 
well watered before sowing, which may be done either broadcast 
or in shallow rows. We prefer the latter since it permits better 
aeration after the seedlings get started. No additional soil cover- 
ing is needed for this fine seed—a light misting with a fine spray 
will settle it into the soil. If weather is hot or windy, flats 
should be protected with cheesecloth or paper shade until well 
up, then they will enjoy full light and a cooler, airy location. Seeds 
should germinate in 3 or 4 days in summer, 7 or 8 days in winter 
in a night temperature of 60°. 
Planting 
If bench space is available, we like to bench seedlings direct— 
less labor and better growth. It works nicely even in hot weather, 
if the soil is moist before benching, seedlings are planted shallow, 
and misted within minutes of benching and regularly until new 
roots show. 
In regard to the matter of spacing, we believe 3 x 6 inches is 
the most economical and profitable for a winter single stem 
crop with 3 x 5 inches being enough for late spring and summer 
crops. We space our pinched crops 7 x 8 inches, finding this sat- 
isfactory for most varieties. If you are obliged to transplant, band 
or pot seedlings, do not pinch them until plants have been 
benched and have taken hold. To pinch before benching will usual- 
ly result in only two top breaks rather than the four or so that each 
plant should produce. We like to pinch when plants are about 
8 inches high, leaving 3 good pairs of leaves. 
Summer-Fall Snaps 
are being grown more every season. Direct planted and 
grown single stem, they flower in a little over two months from 
benching, and seem to be in good demand. Short growing time 
means low production costs. Make several sowings, so they will 
keep coming in. 
Sowing Dates 
The dates given here are intended as suggestions only—based 
on our experience here in the Midwest. Various things can throw 
them off. Examples: 
1. Hot, dry, bright fall—will bring Christmas crops in early. 
2. Dark, cloudy fall-winter delays late winter crops. 
3. The tables are based on medium early varieties on raised 
benches, 50° night temperatures most of the winter, at least. 
45° nights or ground beds will take longer. 
4. Your local climate. Where winters are warm and sunny, 
winter Snaps will bloom faster. 
5. Varieties differ in blooming dates. 
There are several 
important advantages 
of germinating Snap 
seeds in rows. If you 
use soil as a germina- 
tion medium, the 
soil can be thorough- 
ly “cultivated” and 
aerated by breaking 
the surface between 
the rows until the 
seedlings can be 
pricked off. Then, 
too, if damp-off be- 
comes a problem, it 
is less apt to spread 
through the seed flat, 
tending to run down 
to the end of a row 
and out. Another im- 
portant advantage is 
that when sown in 
rows the soil may be 
compressed to form 
the row and moisture 
is better controlled 
down in the small 
“trenches’’ — provid- 
ing an ideal environ- 
ment for seed germ- 
ination. 
Single Stem 
No-pinch growing seems to be accepted more each year. Rea- 
sons: 
A. Quicker crop--gets in 2-3 weeks sooner. Bench cuts out 
faster, more evenly. 
B. Fewer culls—more uniformity. 
C. Controlled flowering date—by making a succession of prop- 
erly scheduled sowings, you can be in cut when you want 
them—or steadily from January to June, as we do. 
Sow Flower 
July 20 Nov. 15. Earlier if fall is hot. 
Aug. 1 Dec. 15 
Aug. 12 Jana) 
Sept. 1 Feb. 1 
Sept. 8 March 1. 1-2 weeks later if 
very cloudy winter. 
Ocha! April 1 
Dec. 1 May 1 
Feb. 1 June 1 
April 23 Aug. 1 
May 23 Sept. 1 
Pinched Crops 
Wait till breaks show in leaf axils-—plant usually 6-8 inches 
high—then pinch to leave 3 pairs of leaves. 
Sow Flower 
July 20 Mid-Dec. 
Aug. 1 Early Jan. 
Aug. 20 Early Feb. 
Sept. 5 Early March 
Sept. 25 Early April 
Nov. 20 Mid-May 
Temperature 
Normal during firing season: nights 50°, cloudy days 57°. 
sunny days 65°. 
Try some Summer Snaps for extra profits. mS 
