Wyaut 3 
COMPLETE LIST OF No. 
tue 3-year 
ROSES 
ONE OF THE MOST COMPLETE 
SELECTIONS OF ALL KINDS OF 
ROSES IN THE WORLD 
More Than 200 Tried and 
Proved Excellent Varieties 
12 TO 24 ROSES—10% 
3 of a kind discount applies only when 3 or more of the same 
variety are ordered. 
The discounts do not apply to the Collections. 
If any variety ordered is sold out, we will substitute another Rose 
as near like it as possible unless requested not to. The correct name 
will be put on the bush. 
Please have orders consist of more than one Rose bush. 
Special Discounts 
When only 1 or 2 of a kind are ordered: 
24 OR MORE ROSES 
Order early or send a list of second-choice varieties so as to avoid 
disappointment. 
All Rose bushes are sent prepaid. 
These prices and discounts supersede all previous lists. 
OHIO CUSTOMERS ADD SALES TAX 
WYANT’S ROSES ARE 
RATED HIGHEST IN 
CONSUMERS 
DIGEST 
SISTER THERESE 
$1.50 
15% 
WYANT’S IMPORTANT CULTURAL HINTS 
Please cooperate by reading and following the simple planting directions accompanying each order, even if you have planted Roses before. 
Selection of Location 
In selecting the location for your Rose bed, it is not im- 
portant whether your plants are to get morning or afternoon 
sunlight, but that they do get at least a half day of sun. 
Part shade is even preferable to a full day of sunlight. 
Tree Roots 
Select a location where tree roots cannot interfere with 
your Rose roots. It is surprising how quickly tree roots will 
find a Rose bed and fill it, consuming food and moisture 
intended for the plants. If tree roots are present, dig a 
trench around the bed as deep as the tree roots extend, 
thereby cutting off all that might attempt to enter the bed. 
This trench may be filled in again immediately, and should 
be dug around the Rose bed every year or two if the tree 
roots prove bothersome. 
Plant Early 
The best time in the Spring to plant Wyant Roses is just 
as soon as the soil is workable. The larger part of the gar- 
dening public wait until the warm, sunshiny days of Spring 
to start their planting. This is too late to get best results. 
In this latitude late March is an ideal time, and planting 
as late as May seldom gives the results yon anticipate. Fall 
planting is usually even safer than Spring planting, but if 
you can plant in early Spring there is no use losing a whole 
season of enjoyment by waiting until Fall, for early Spring- 
planted Hybrid Teas start to bloom in June of the same year. 
Soils 
It is best to keep away from either extremely heavy or 
extremely light soil; loam soils will have more food in them. 
Heavy soils can be improved and made lighter by the ad- 
dition of peat or humus and agricultural slag. Peat or 
humus will also improve light soils and enable them to re- 
tain more moisture. The best soil you can get is the best 
soil for Roses. Acidity and alkalinity make very little 
difference. Roses are very tolerant. 
Planting 
If you want successful Roses, plant the bushes close to- 
gether, so that the foliage will keep the ground shaded and 
cool—15 to 18 inches is the rule for the Hybrid Teas, the 
taller varieties being placed for the best effect. 
Instead of waiting until the bushes arrive, it is better 
to spade the soil 15 to 18 inches deep several weeks in ad- 
vance adding plenty of peat or humus. And if drainage 
is needed, the bed should be tiled and surplus water carried 
away. Guard against the roots drying out from exposure 
to sun, wind or freezing during planting. Do not use 
chemical fertilizer when plenting Wyant Roses; only a little 
bonemeal and a lot of peat er humus may be used at plant- 
2 
ing time. Set the plant so that the crown is about level with 
the surface of the soil. Whether planting in Spring or Fall, 
mound soil high around the branches immediately after 
planting to help prevent the stems from withering during 
the time the roots are becoming established. 
Feeding 
In the Spring, apply Wyant Rose Food to the established 
plants but not to newly set Roses. Wyant Rose Food is 
recommended, because it is of organic composition rather 
than chemical, and even after long usage does not make 
the soil toxic, nor burn, as a chemical fertilizer will. Proper 
fertilizing will produce much bloom, so about once a month 
through “the growing season apply a handful of Wyant 
Rose EF ood to the soil and work it in or on top of the mulch 
and let it work through. Do not fertilize after about the 
first of September. 
Pruning 
There is a certain amount of strength in the branches 
and roots of plants, so it follows that if we cut them off, we 
lose that much strength. Therefore, we try to leave as 
much of both on the plant as possible and still have safe 
planting. You can leave as much on the top of the plant 
as you can protect from drying out; so as soon as the plant 
is set, heap soil around the branches as high as you can, 
possibly 10 inches high. An easy and convenient way of 
doing this might be to use a collar of heavy paper or card- 
board, like a stovepipe around the branches, and fill this 
collar with soil. The branches should then be cut off so 
that not more than 3 to 4 inches stick out above the pro- 
tective mound of soil. This mound of soil should be re- 
moved when the shoots have started out. 
Fall pruning is not recommended, for it is a waste of the 
strength that is stored in the branches. The real pruning 
consists of removing dead wood, cutting the strong branches 
down to the highest big live bud. Shorten or remove weak 
growth. After the big June bloom, if there is a lot of small 
twiggy growth on the top of the plant, it is well to cut it 
off, down to some good strong growth and just above some 
well-developed eye. 
The only pruning given Floribundas is to remove dead 
wood; or if you wish the plant kept low, prune down far- 
ther. Hybrid Perpetuals can be shortened about one-third 
and from Climbers the dead wood should be removed. In 
July, after the first big burst of bloom is over, you may 
prune Climbers and Hybrid Perpetuals, cutting out the 
oldest wood, but pruning is not recommended unless the 
plant is too large. 
Watering 
If the soil around your Roses is kept cultivated, it will 
seldom be in need of watering. However, during an ex- 
tended drought, soak the ground thoroughly for hours and 
then do not repeat for a week. Stop all watering and cul- 
tivating about the first of September. 
An application of peat or other porous material put on 
in May and left the rest of the season helps to retain moisture 
and keeps the soil cooler and in better condition for Rose 
growing. It may also help in disease control. 
Suckers 
Suckers are the wild shoots that occasionally spring up 
from below the bud. They can be distinguished from 
flowering shoots by the difference in the leaves and often 
by the thorns on the stems being entirely different from 
those on the blooming stems. Do not call every stem with 
seven leaflets wild, as many of the flowering stems also have 
seven leaflets. A sucker only comes from below the bud. 
As soon as a sucker is discovered, cut it off clean from the 
main plant below the ground, where it originates, without 
leaving a stub which would send up more shoots. 
Disease and Insect Control 
A little attention and care will remedy the few diseases 
and insects that attack Rose plants. Dusting is preferable 
to Spraying, for it is easier and quicker. 
Spray or dust aphids, the small green lice that appear 
about the tips of the shoots, with insecticides containing 
nicotine or rotenone. Spray or dust worms and insects that 
eat leaves, with rotenone or with a poison. Both above pests 
can be controlled with Wyant Rose Dust. 
Rose chafers and Japanese beetles can be killed by dust- 
ing chlordane over them. Place a drop of tree dressing, 
shellac or thick white lead on all cut ends in the Spring, 
when pruning is done, to keep out the carpenter bee, which 
makes a hole in the exposed pith. 
Prevent black-spot and mildew by dusting with any of 
Wyant’s Dusts, beginning as soon as the leaves come out 
and continuing about every week, and more often in rainy 
weather. Apply a light, even coat with a gun on a calm 
evening before the dew, if possible, thereby protecting the 
foliage so that it will be retained until frost. If black-spot 
has been prevalent, using lime-sulphur as a disinfectant, as 
suggested on page 15, can be a great help. 
Winter Protection 
The time-honored method of Winter protection is putting 
a bank of soil around the branches of Hybrid Teas in the 
late Fall before severe freezing occurs. However, Summer 
protection against diseases is more important in keeping a 
Rose alive. Tf a plant goes into Winter in a good hardened 
condition, having retained its foliage until freezing, it will 
live through the Winter in fine shape even without abundant 
covering. Therefore, keep your Roses healthy in the Sum- 
mer and forget your Winter protection. 
