Onion Plants 
Sturdy, hardy plants that come to you all 
ready to set out. Ask for prices. 
Onion Sets 
Onion sets used instead of seeds will 
produce earlier crops of green onions or 
large bulbs. Plant set right side wp and 
cover with garden rake; then firm the 
soil well over the sets. 
Parsley 
Does best in rich, mellow loam. Seed 
is slow to germinate, and is helped by 
soaking in warm water overnight before 
planting. Sow early and_not too deeply. 
Space plants 6” apart. When curled va- 
rieties are about 3” tall, cut off leaves. 
The new growth will be brighter and 
curlier. 
MOSS CURLED or DOUBLE CURLED— 
70 days. Compact, dark green leaves, 
curled and fine cut. 
PARAMOUNT—70 days. The best looking, 
finest and most uniformly curled. Dark 
green leaves, tall strong stems. 
Parsnips 
Needs rich, mellow soil for best growth. 
Must be planted as early as ground can 
be worked. Soil must be loose to a depth 
of 12” and cannot be heavy. Rows should 
be 15” to 18” apart. Cover seed 15” and 
press down soil. Thin out to 4” when 
plants have made a good start. Cold 
weather turns starches into sugar and 
improves flavor. Roots are hardy: leave 
in ground over winter if desired. 
HOLLOW CROWN —125 days. The most 
generally grown kind. Roots 21% to 3-in. 
thick at shoulder. 12 to 14-in. long, uni- 
formly tapered, hollow crowned. 
Peas 
Early peas need a light, warm soil; but 
general crop thrives best in moderately 
heavy soil. (Avoid fresh manure and very 
rich or wet, mucky soil as this produces 
large growth of vine at the cost of qual- 
ity of the peas.) Plant seed in rows at 
2” depth. Keep rows 21” to 28” apart 
for dwarf varieties and 28” to 42” for 
the taller types. Gather crop as fast as 
it is fit to use or new pods will cease 
to form and those partly advanced will 
cease growth. 
Plant variety Alaska as soon as ground 
can be dug. Plant wrinkled varieties 
(which have better flavor) when narcis- 
sus buds show color or when crocuses are 
in bloom. Peas are not satisfactory when 
weather turns hot. Tall varieties must be 
staked. Most home _ gardeners prefer 
dwarf varieties like Little Marvel. Peas 
want well-limed soil. Don’t forget, inocu- 
lation improves production. 
Early and Second Variety 
ALASKA—57 days. Wilt resistant. Used 
for canning and early home garden. Blunt, 
straight light-green. 3-in. pods. 
FREEZONIAN (fr)—60 days. Luscious, 
melting peas that retain their garden fresh 
sweet flavor after freezing. 315 inch pods 
packed with 8 or 9 medium sized peas. 
LAXTON’S PROGRESS (fr)—62 days. 
Medium dark green vine, 16 to 18-in. 
Single pods almost an inch wide and 41% 
to 5-in. long, with 7 to 9 large peas. 
LITTLE MARVEL (ir)—62 days. Out- 
standing, dwarf. Fine quality, large yield. 
Single and double, dark green, 3-in. pods 
—blunt, plump, well filled with 7 to 8 
medium sized, light green tender peas. 
THOMAS LAXTON (fr)—60 days. Med- 
ium height. Strong vine bears numerous 
dark green, blunt ended pods, 4 to 41!5-in. 
Retains flavor and sweetness. 
Later Varieties 
ALDERMAN or DARK-PODDED TELE- 
PHONE (fr)—74 days. Large podded va- 
riety of the Telephone family. Excellent 
for home gardens, truckers, shipping to 
distant markets and for freezing; resistant 
to Fusarium wilt. Vine dark green, coarse 
Pods single, very broad, plump, straight, 
dark green, pointed; contains 8 to 10 peas 
of highest quality. Seed large, wrinkled, 
light green. 
HUNDREDFOLD or LAXTONIAN—62 
days. Exceptionally choice and _ prolific. 
Dark green. Rather coarse vines. Straight 
pointed, well-filled 215"' pods. 
Edible Podded or Sugar 
MAMMOTH MELTING SUGAR—72 days. 
Wilt resistant. Coarse light-green vine, 
54-in. Single 415-in. pods, broad, indented 
light, blunt, stringless, without fiber, 
eshy. Contains 7 peas. Seed large, round, 
creamy-white. 
Peppers 
Need long growing season: start indoors 
8 weeks before plants are wanted. Set 
plants 15” x 24” and feed liberally for 
bigger fruits. 
Warm, mellow soil in sheltered loca- 
tion is best. Cultivate regularly, drawing 
soil up around stems. When plants are 
7 to 8” tall, hoe in light dressing of 
commercial fertilizer. Do no plant hot 
peppers near sweet; they are apt to cross. 
Sweet 
CALIFORNIA WONDER IMPROVED—74 
days. Number one quality peppers, about 
4-in. long and 314-in. diameter, very 
smooth, 3 and 4 lobed, glossy green, turn- 
ing bright crimson when ripe. Remarkable 
thick walls, tender, sweet. 
Those Long Season Vegetables 
One section of your garden should be devoted principally to root crops of a 
long growing season. These should be planted in rows 2 feet apart to allow for 
cultivation. This distance also makes possible the growing of a crop of extra 
early vegetables between the long season root crops early in the spring. For 
instance, BEETS, CARROTS and PARSNIPS have very small tops when young. 
During May, June and early July, such vegetables are RADISHES, LETTUCE or 
GREEN ONIONS may be grown between the rows. 
Another section of the garden should contain the greatest variety of crops, be- 
cause part of them will occupy the ground all season, like SWISS CHARD, BRUS- 
SELS SPROUTS and CABBAGE. Crops like PEAS and LETTUCE will occupy 
space between the rows during early spring and summer to make room for 
TOMATOES and PEPPERS. Still other crops like SWEET CORN will not be 
planted until the middle of June and then in a selection of varieties which will 
mature in succession. 
Hot Beds « 
Cold Frames 
Hotbeds differ from coldframes in 
that they are supplied with some sort 
of artificial heat. 
Since the soil in a hotbed is main- 
tained at a warm and fairly constant 
temperature, it provides excellent 
facilities for the germination of seeds 
and for the growing of a wide variety 
of young seedling plants. 
The coldframe is an unheated 
frame, the plants receiving heat from 
the penetration of the sun's rays 
through the glass of the sash. 
There seems to be a very general 
idea that coldframes are useful only 
for the protection of plants during 
the winter months and that at other 
seasons of the year they lie idle. Win- 
ter protection, however is only one of 
the many uses to which the coldframe 
may be put. 
It is used for hardening off of seed- 
lings started indoors—to start half- 
hardy and tender annuals sown three 
to four weeks ahead of the time they 
would be planted outdoors. 
The cold frame is used to store cut- 
tings of herbaceous plants through 
the winter, and it is an excellent place 
to establish division of clumps of 
alpines and perennials. 
Use your cold frame also for forc- 
ing early vegetables and hardy bulbs, 
and in the fall you can store your 
celery, cabbage, beets, carrots and 
turnips from your garden. 
To get the full benefit from your 
cold frame, start it early and keep it 
busy every month in the year. 
Proper planning can make your garden 
produce until frost falls. 
