should be removed and the plants 
kept moist. 
To avoid the growth of weeds and 
fungus, it is advisable to sterilize 
the soil with steam or soil fumigants 
before planting, and to water with 
sterilized water until the third leaf 
shows on the small plants. The 
plants may then be watered with 
fresh water for fifteen to twenty 
days before transplanting. 
TRANSPLANTING 
A good mixture for transplanting 
contains two parts of well-decayed 
leaf mold to one part of top soil, 
with a light application of well- 
decayed manure. At first the seed- 
lings are planted one inch apart, 
and when they become crowded 
they are transplanted again. In five 
to six weeks they will be ready for 
potting or planting in the garden. 
In GARDEN PLANTING, one should 
not “over do” the soil preparation. 
Such practices as digging trenches 
and filling them with loose leaf 
mold should be avoided. The most 
desirable soil is fairly loose but yet 
has sufficient body and nutrients to 
allow the plant to develop. A sandy 
soil requires the application of 
humus, whereas heavy soils require 
sand and leaf mold. 
Begonias can not stand direct 
sunlight during the day (in most 
areas) , therefore it is well to choose 
sites that afford the early morning 
sunlight or the late evening sun- 
light. The more sunlight the plant 
can receive without burning, the 
more flowers may be obtained, and 
the larger the blooms. The Be- 
See our Hanging Basket 
House illustration on the 
back cover of this catalog 
to get the color effect of 
a planting of hanging 
basket begonias. 
gonias should be planted in order 
that the point of the leaves faces 
the observer. This is known as fac- 
ing the plant, and it is important if 
one is to see the bloom well. 
After planting, Begonias require 
aminimum of watering during the 
early stages of growth. 
PINCHING 
To attain large flowers on the 
standard or upright type, all shoots 
should be removed except one. This 
is accomplished by breaking off, at 
any time, the growth that develops 
from the tuber. If you desire to 
make cuttings, allow the growth to 
develop two to three inches high 
on the extra shoots, then cut off at 
the tuber with a sharp knife, and 
then by planting in sand they will 
form their own tuber in the fall. 
On the hanging basket variety 
started from tubers, all the sprouts 
should be kept and the crown 
pinched from the first main sprout 
when they attain four or five inches 
of growth. This induces the devel- 
opment of the lateral growth, and 
the growth of new sprouts. Lateral 
sprouts should not be pinched; they 
may be pinched before potting or 
soon after potting. Do not pinch the 
plants of the seedling hanging bas- 
ket type the first year, as this does 
not allow time for flower produc- 
tion, and does not allow the tuber 
to develop properly. 
For a full basket of seedlings, it 
is best to put from two to four 
plants in each basket, depending on 
the size of the container. 
The hanging basket is 
best lined with woods 
moss and filled with rich 
soil and peat moss. Place 
it in a location protected 
from direct sunlight. 
ROOTED BEGONIAS... 
DROPPING OF BUDS 
Begonias, although hardy and easy 
to grow under favorable conditions, 
are affected by overwatering, too 
dense shade, and lack of air, and as 
a result, will not bloom properly. 
They require fresh-air circulation, 
and will drop their buds and flow- 
ers in a very few days if kept in- 
doors. If the center buds fall before 
they open, it is usually a sign that 
the soil is kept too wet. Care should 
be taken to avoid overwatering. In 
the cooler coastal areas, the use of 
peat moss should be avoided or used 
sparingly. If your plants become 
tall and spindling, with large leaves 
and few flowers, there is insufficient 
light. This may be remedied by re- 
moval to a less-shaded location. 
BEGONIA MILDEW 
In the past few years there has been 
a mildew problem on Begonias in 
numerous gardens throughout the 
country. This has definitely been 
established as Powdery Mildew. We 
have conducted many tests in home 
gardens in several sections, and we 
have a simple control of this prob- 
lem. 
Store Tubers in 
cool place. 
All gardens following the pro- 
cedure of dusting with Sulphur at 
the beginning of plant growth, and 
continuing to dust twice a month 
up to blossom time, had no mildew 
on Begonias. 
We have also found a copper 
dust, containing no lime, that does 
not burn or injure the flower when 
plants are in bloom. Orthocide fun- 
gicide proved completely effective 
in all test gardens this year. We rec- 
ommend either as a preventative. 
