Plant about 2 Ibs. seed per acre — 
Watermelon dor, fo 100 hills 
GROWING WATERMELONS 
Select a well-drained sandy loam; new sod land is best; or good 
loamy soil which is well drained is good. Heavy soils waterlog 
easily and subject melons to ground rot. 
If under irrigation run large furrows 8 feet apart and plant the 
hills well up on the border 8 to 10 feet apart. Be careful not to 
irrigate too often. Plant to a depth of about one inch, shallower 
early when the soil is cold and slightly deeper for late planting. 
Watermelons are lovers of drouth and the finest melons are 
grown under semi-arid conditions. 
Plow deep and harrow well to make a fine seed bed. A liberal 
coat of manure disced in before plowing will increase the size and 
yield. 
Cultivate shallow next to, and deeper away from the plants 
using knives or duck feet, being careful not to cut roots. Perma- 
nent irrigation furrows should be formed early to avoid serious 
root damage. 
It is sometimes desirable to turn the ends of the runners when 
they begin to reach out across the row and give an extra culti- 
vation. This should be done carefully so as not to damage the 
small melons. Melons grown in areas subject to extreme tem- 
perature should be protected from the sun’s rays by covering with 
their own vines to avoid sunburn. 
Consult your county agent or some successful local grower 
about commercial fertilizer. Here we use 12-24-12, one to two 
hundred pounds per acre, but suggest that you experiment or get 
local advice for your soil conditions. Watermelons require consid- 
erable amount of nitrogen, and it is believed adequate phosphate 
reduces breakage. 
DO NOT plant on land where melons were grown before, even 
if four or five years before, if you have other good land. The 
vines remove something from the soil not readily replaced, and 
following crops may produce deformed melons with black ends or 
shriveled ends, even from the best of seeds. Ground previously 
in alfalfa is ideal because of high nitrogen content. Sometimes 
the first set will produce some ill shaped or blackened melons. 
These should be cut from the vines, allowing more shapely melons 
to set on. Watermelons sometimes produce black-end fruits on 
ground following sorghums. Melon culling is very important and 
the best growers, when necessary, go through the field two or 
three times to cut off deformed melons when they are small. 
Pruning of vines, however, is detrimental. 
Do not press on melons to see if they are ripe. A slight thump 
with the finger, if the sound rings clear and a high tone, indi- 
cates a green melon; if a hollow dead tone, the melon is ripe. 
By a little practice you can tell by the color. A bright, growing 
color indicates a green melon; a dull green indicates ripeness. 
Stems should be cut as close to the melon as possible. Protrud- 
ing stems become hard and often puncture adjacent melons in 
shipping. The best harvesting procedure is to pick melons in 
the evening and load in the morning when they are cool. Regard- 
less of conditions, over-ripe melons should never be loaded. 
DDT CAUTION. Do not dust or spray using DDT on 
beans, cucumbers, cantaloupes, or watermelons, Use Marlate In- 
secticide for control of cucumber beetles and a good nicotine dust 
for killing aphis. 
Watermelon Seed Colorado Grown is 
the very best when grown by Burrell. 43 
Pa 
