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made somewhat like that found in the wild. Sim- 
ply dig a hole at least twice the size of the root 
ball and put some leafmold in the bottom—oak 
is best, maple poorest—place tree and tuck in with 
lots of leafmold. Use at least a bushel of leafmold 
for each foot height of your tree. Now make a 
dyke a few inches high with some of the soil you 
took from the hole. This should form a circle just 
under the outside branches. Soak well and water 
every ten days during the first summer. Water 
costs little, helps much. 
HOLLY PLANTED RIGHT WILL GROW 
Oak leafmold can often be found on the very 
estate where Holly is to be planted and its cheap- 
ness sometimes proves to be its worst fault. Folks 
are so apt to think of Holly as being something 
special and insist that a costly fertilizer be used, 
but fifty years of experience has proven that no 
man-made fertilizer helps Hollies at planting time 
like oak leafmold. I suspect that it contains some 
of the so-called trace elements but much of its 
value lies in its insulating quality. Frost may 
penetrate the leafmold around the roots of your 
Holly only inches while going down several feet 
in the surrounding ground. In cold climates the 
use of leafmold combined with a ground covering 
of snow makes it possible to grow specimen Hol- 
lies that are more compact with better (darker) 
color than those usually grown further South in 
what folks consider the Holly belt. Yes, good Hol- 
lies can and are being grown way up North. 
Caution: do not plant on top of a hill in full sweep 
of wind. Houses, buildings of any sort or ever- 
green trees are a help as a wind break wherever 
you want to grow Hollies. 
Remember, much that friends have told you 
about Holly is just not so. Planted right they will 
grow most anywhere. Its as simple as that. 
EARLE DILATUSH 
EARLE DILATUSH 
Folly Specialist 
ROUTE 130 ROBBINSVILLE, N. J. 
