FERTILIZING AND LIMING 
The condition of any soil can be helped with 
the application of organic matter (manure, 
compost, etc. ), as it tends to make heavy soils 
looser and more workable, improves drainage, 
increases aeration and helps retain moisture. 
The condition of heavy soils may also be im- 
proved through the use of Krilium or peat moss. 
Organic matter is not essential if the soil is 
mellow and well drained, but in cases of very 
sandy or clay soils it is quite desirable. A good 
mixed fertilizer and proper liming, following 
application of organic matter, will make your 
soil ready for faster, healthier growing. 
When farm manure is used on the garden, it 
should be allowed to rot before application. 
This kills most of the weed seeds. It should be 
applied at the rate of one bushel per 100 square 
feet and worked into the soil when the ground 
is spaded or plowed in the spring. 
Compost may be used at the same rate of 
application and worked in like manure during 
spring spading. Compost is made of leaves, 
weeds, straw and other vegetable matter which 
have been piled and allowed to decay through 
the year. If manure or compost is worked into 
the ground annually, the amount of fertilizer 
can usually be reduced by about one-half. 
The addition of prepared, mixed fertilizer to 
your soil helps balance the plant food and aids 
in vegetable growth. Regular G.L.F. GroLeaF 
is a 5-10-5 powdered fertilizer with the right 
balance of plant foods to give seedlings an 
early start toward full production. 
Soluble GroLeaF is a 14-28-14 fertilizer with 
the same balance of plant foods, but especially 
prepared for liquid application. Apply 3 or 4 
pounds of GroLeaF 5-10-5 per 100 square feet 
Cor '/4 that amount of Soluble GroLeaF) spad- 
ing one-half of it in and applying the other half 
on top after spading and raking in. Following 
heavy rain, or on very sandy soil, side-dressing 
may be desirable at a rate not to exceed one 
pound of 5-10-5 GroLeaF per 100 feet of row 
Cor ¥% pound of Soluble GroLeaF ). erat 3 to 4 
inches from plants. 
Most soils will require about one bag (80 
lbs.) of ground limestone or one bag (50 lbs. ) 
of hydrated lime per 1000 square feet for the 
majority of garden crops. This is to correct soil 
acidity to the point favorable for the growth of 
most vegetables and should be repeated about 
every three years. 
To reduce scab on potatoes and produce 
better blueberries, it is sometimes advisable to 
make the soil more acid. For this purpose use 
G.L.F. Dry Wettable Sulphur or G.L.F. Dusting 
Sulphur at the rate of 1 to 2 lbs. per 100 square 
feet, spread evenly and rake it into the soil. 
CULTIVATING 
As soon as the soil can be properly worked af- 
ter each rain or hosing, it should be hoed or 
cultivated to kill weeds that have sprouted and 
to leave the surface in a loose condition that 
will absorb later rainfall. When hoeing for 
weed control, cultivation should be shallow so 
as not to injure vegetable plant roots that are 
near the surface. A home garden should be 
hoed enough to keep the soil loose and free 
of weeds... but no more often than that. 
THIN TURF 
can be built up through applications of top- 
dressings such as peat moss, composted soil or 
garden loam. Broadcast evenly % to % inch 
and work into grass with the back of a rake. 
Bare spots can be treated the same way. 
ROUGH LAWN 
can be evened off by adding topsoil to the low 
spots and leveling the high spots. 
SHADY SPOTS 
that are a problem because of very dense trees 
or bushes can be covered with common peri- 
winkle or pachysandra, which does not have 
to be mowed. Often the removal of a poor tree 
or bush will help in severe cases. 
MOSS IN THE LAWN 
usually indicates low fertility rather than lime 
deficiency. In early spring, broadcast 10 pounds 
per 1,000 square feet of Sulphate of Ammonia 
or Nitrate of Soda to kill the moss. Put it on be- 
fore a rain, or water the ground yourself. Rake 
out the dead moss two weeks later and reseed 
bare spots. 
