GROUND PREPARATION — The soil as such is not of great importance. 
The conditions as to aeration and drainage are the important things. If the 
soil is apt to be too wet in rainy season a raised bed of 4 to 6 inches is best. 
This may also save plants from so-called winter killing. Prepare the ground 
as far in advance of planting as possible, in the fall is best. Use about 5 bushels 
or two large bags of manure to each 100 sq. ft of bed area. Add 4 to 6 lbs. 
superphosphate and 8 to 4 lbs. of John Innes Base Plant Food and spade all 
thoroughly under. A sack or two of coarse sand is helpful if soil is heavy. If 
soil is acid a pound or two of lime should be added. Mums do better in soil 
that is neutral or only slightly acid. 
PLANTING—Plant out as soon as the ground is warm. Do not plant too deeply 
and shade until established if weather is sunny or hot. Plant in a sunny location 
as they require at least six hours of sunshine daily. In our hot interior valley 
morning sun is ideal. Assuming that your ground is well prepared, set out 
plants in this way; using a hand trowel dig a hole to accommodate the root 
ball, gently spread the roots out and set in hole firming the soil around and 
over them, then water just enough to settle soil (a cup or two of water) and 
cover lightly with more soil Great care must be taken at this time not to 
over-water. It is best not to flood or irrigate the bed until plants are well 
established as this may damage the roots to such extent that they do not re- 
cover. The roots will develop faster as they go out in search for moisture 
and when the root system grows larger they should not suffer for lack of water 
and never be allowed to completely dry out as this damages the feeder roots 
which are near the surface. For best results plants should be kept growing 
steadily without any check in growth. 
FEEDING — Providing the ground has been prepared as above, the plants 
will not require feeding until July 15th. Then top dress as follows: (Using a 
gallon can for a measure) 38 cans fine manure, 3 cans coarse sand, 9 cans 
soil, 3 cans peat-moss or leaf-mold and 1% lbs. John Innes Base Plant Food. 
Mix all thoroughly together and spread thinly over 100 sq. feet of bed. Re- 
peat August 20th and September 20th. s 
If John Innes Base is not available use Bloodmeal 3 parts, superphosphate 
6 parts and sulphate or muriate of potash one part—mix thoroughly and use at 
same rate. 
PINCHING — As many growers are not particular as to exact blooming date 
we suggest planting May or early June, then around June 20th to 30th cut back 
to 4 or 5 nodes or sets of leaves and in about ten days select the number of 
stems that you wish for bloom (3 for the large flowering). Select the 
strongest and remove all others. Save the first bud that appears unless it comes 
before August, in that case rub it off; a top side shoot will grow, on which an- 
other bud will form, save this one. Remove all side shoots or laterals as they 
appear, pinching them out with the thumb nail. Stake each stem with a bamboo 
cane, tying well. This will keep stems straight and prevent flowers rubbing 
which causes them to bruise. We find raffia a good tying medium. It is strong, 
easy to handle, will not cut the plant and is economical to use. For specific 
stopping and timing, see Key for this method. 
For pompons, anemones and garden varieties use same general culture. 
Pinch top of plant when well established and cut back again July 1st to 15th. 
The large pompons and anemones may be disbudded. The cushions and Lilli- 
puts require no pinching. 5 
Early English Varieties—Plant early May. Pinch June 7th and July 15th. 
Save 6 stems after pinch and remove others. Retain one bud per stem, remov- 
ing all laterals as they appear. The blooms should be from 4 to 6 inches in 
diameter if well grown. Keep them well staked. 
PESTS — For control of aphids, dust with Malathon dust, repeat in 5 days 
or use Benzene Hexachloride, I tablespoon to one gallon of water as a spray, 
repeating in 5 days. 
