INFORMATION AND PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 
We are interested in your success with every tree or plant we send 
out; we exercise the greatest care to place every item in the hands of 
our customers in the best possible condition, and in order to furnish 
some precautions and provide for complete satisfaction, we give a 
few hints on such points as are most essential. 
TIME TO PLANT—Trees and plants usually become dormant about 
the lst of November, and may be planted throughout the fall, winter 
and spring months. Fall and winter planting is preferred for the reason 
that the roots become established during the winter months, and are 
ready to make a vigorous growth when warm weather begins. How- 
ever, excellent results are obtained with early spring planting. 
CARE OF TREES ON ARRIVAL—Unless you are prepared to plant 
them immediately upon arrival, dig a trench large enough to accom- 
modate the roots; cut the bottom string, and spread the roots carefully, 
firming the soil about them. DO NOT PERMIT THE ROOTS TO DRY 
OuUIOn Ee REEZE. 
PREPARING TREES FOR PLANTING—Many failures of newly trans- 
planted stock are due to the lack of proper pruning. When the trees 
are dug in the nursery, some of the feeding roots are left in the ground, 
therefore, when transplanting, it is necessary to restore the balance 
between the roots and the top by removing part of the tops. 
In pruning, make a clean sharp cut. Do not leave stub ends in 
removing branches. Pruning shears, or a sharp knife, are the best 
tools to use. Never break pieces off with your hands—make a clean cut. 
FRUIT TREES—On branched trees such as most Apple, Pear, 
Peaches, etc., select three to five side branches on different sides of 
the trunk and 6 to 8 inches apart and cut back about one-half (three- 
quarters on Peach stock) their length. Try not to leave two branches 
nearly opposite. Cut off the top of tree to about 24 to 36 inches from 
the ground. Whip trees should be topped about 24 to 40 inches from 
the ground. 
SHADE TREES—Do not cut off the leader or main stem, but prune 
to avoid crowding branches, by thinning out the short branches, and 
cutting back all the other side limbs. 
Roots on all trees and plants should be trimmed back one-half inch 
or more, cut long roots to balance, cut off all broken or bruised roots. 
PLANTING—Dig the hole larger than is necessary to admit all the 
roots in their natural position; then having the tree pruned as directed, 
hold it in an upright position, and shovel the soil, carefully putting 
the finest and best dirt from the surface in among the roots, bringing 
every root in contact with the soil, firming gently with the foot. The tree 
should be planted about the same depth, or an inch deeper, than it 
was in the nursery row; this may be determined by the change of 
color in the bark. 
Commercial and natural fertilizers are valuable when properly 
used. Do not let strong fertilizers come in direct contact with the bare 
roots. 
MOST GARDENING FAILURES result from Improper Planting and 
After Care! 
® Remember the first season for newly planted material is the most 
critical. 
® Don't neglect watering during dry spells, especially for the first two 
years, or until the plants become well established. Sprinkling is not 
sufficient — soak plants thoroughly during Spring and Summer 
months. 
® Cultivate or hand hoe the planting beds to a depth of approximately 
3 inches, to loosen the soil and keep down weed growth. 
® Keep plantings well fertilized, especially large, growing trees, roses 
and shrubs. 
® Be sure to spray or dust at the proper time. 
® Do what pruning or trimming is recommended or have this done fo1 
you. 
WATERING—Artificial watering is highly desirable. Do not sprinkle, 
but give the plant all the water it will take at one time. No more water 
need be applied for several days when this is done. 
HOW TO PLANT 
CURRANTS and GOOSEBERRIES—Cut off half the tops and plant 
4 or 5 feet apart. Each year, as soon as fruit is gathered, cut and burn 
all wood 3 years old. Allow 5 or 6 new shoots to develop each year. 
RASPBERRIES, Red and Black—Plant 3 or 4 feet apart in rows 6 
feet apart. Set plants 1 or 2 inches deeper than they were in the 
nursery. Cut back all bushes to six inches or less of the ground. After 
fruiting, cut out old canes and burn, leaving a few vigorous new canes 
for fruiting the following year. 
GRAPES—Dig a broad, deep hole and fill to the right depth for 
planting with compost or rich soil. Trim roots slightly and cut back top 
to one stem with 3 or 4 strong buds. Always plant firmly. 
STRAWBERRIES—Cultivate land deeply before planting. Shear long 
roots back to about 4 inches. Set plant with the crown at surface or a 
little below. Spread roots out in fan shape and hanging down to their 
full length. Firm dirt around roots, leaving loose soil around plant at 
the surface. 
RHUBARB—Plant three feet apart in rich garden soil, with buds 1 
inch below level of ground. 
ASPARAGUS—Plant in rich soil a foot apart in a furrow 6 inches 
deep. Cover 3 inches and tramp. In hoeing, work soil toward the plant 
so that by midsummer the ground is level. Do not cover 6 inches deep 
at first or plants will smother. Cut only sparingly the second year. Fer- 
tilize Asparagus and Rhurbarb liberally with stable manure every 
year. 
HOW TO GROW CAMELLIAS, RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS 
Camellias, Rhododendrons and Azaleas require acid soil. If soil is 
not naturally acid it should be made so by the application of acid 
fertilizer, and peat moss. Applications should be made during the early 
spring months, or in the late fall. Provide sufficient drainage during 
the winter to prevent bud dropping. Plants require additional moisture 
during dry summer months. Careful cultivation of these plants will 
stimulate root action. Pruning to improve their shape should be done 
immediately after blooming. Picking the camellia blossoms will not 
harm the plants, but do not cut long stems, as they are slow growing. 
PLANTS OR TREES REQUIRED PER ACRE 
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SUITABLE DISTANCES FOR PLANTING TREES 
Pears, Plums, Prunes, Peaches, Apricots, 
Almonds, Nectarines, Sour Cherries and Filberts...... 20 to 25 feet 
Moples ands Sweet) Chernesaa eit n se ieeierd eras 25 to 40 feet 
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Shademlreeslemce: rowers) penetra rie cacieiiedeeitcietencions 30 to 50 feet 
Shade and Flowering Trees (small growers)............. 20 to 25 feet 
BE SURE TO REMOVE labels having wire fasteners, when tree is 
planted. 
VISITORS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME—Our customers tell us that 
we have the finest display of First Quality, reasonably priced Nursery 
Stock in all the Northwest. 
HEDGE PLANTS 
BOXWOOD, DWARF—Slow growth to about 24-36 inches. Compact 
growth, may be clipped to any shape. 
One year plants, 10 for $2.00; 50 or more 15c each 
BOXWOOD, COMMON—Grows to about 4 feet tall. Small, close 
growing, bright green leaves. 
One year plants, 10 for $2.00; 50 or more 1l5c each 
REDLEAF BARBERRY—Low growing (3 to 4 ft. tall). Purplish-red 
foliage turns a lustrous scarlet in autumn. Red berries in the winter. 
9 to 12” plants, 10 for $3.50; 25 or more 30c each 
GREENLEAF BARBERRY—Bushy, bright green foliage, turns red 
in the fall. Red berries in winter. 
9 to 12” plants, 10 for $3.00; 25 or more 25c each 
PRIVET, CALIFORNIA—A rapid grower making a full, compact 
hedge, almost evergreen; trims well. 
12 to 18” plants, 10 for $2.50; 50 or more 20c each 
PRIVET, AMUR RIVER—Grows 12 to 15 feet quickly, densely 
branched, with large lustrous green leaves. Hardy. 
12 to 18” plants, 10 for $2.75; 50 or more 20c each 
SPIREA, VAN HOUTTE—A showy shrub covered with dainty white 
flowers. Grows about 7 feet tall, and forms a good screen without 
trimming; hardy. 
12 to 18” plants, 10 for $2.75; 50 or more 20c each 
LAUREL, ENGLISH—Grows to 8 feet. Fine for large, bushy, thick 
hedge. Large glossy green leaves. 
9 to 12” plants, 10 for $3.50; 25 or more 30c each 
CARLTON NURSERY COMPANY 
FOREST GROVE (Since 1890) OREGON 
Dependability Backed by 65 Years of Successful Service to Planters 
Order by Mail . . . With Confidence Bl 
SWEENEY, KRIST & DIMM, HORTICULTURAL PRINTERS, PORTLAND, ORE. 
