GRAND RAPIDS GROWERS, Inc., Grand Rapids, Michigan B° 
HOW TO BUILD A NEW LAWN 
Planting Time—Spring, Fall 
SOIL PREPARATION, Cultivate soil to a depth of 6 to 
8 inches, with garden fork, rototiller, or tractor cultivator. 
Pulverize surface with garden rake to form a smooth level 
seed bed. 
FERTILIZING. Apply lawn food at the same time the 
lawn is seeded. This complete plant food should be a 
10-6-4 formula or something similar and should be applied 
at only 10 Ibs. per 1000 square feet. 
Summer, 
SEEDING. Broadcast lawn seed at the rate of one pound 
to 400 square feet. Rake lightly into the soil and firm sur- 
face with a lawn roller unless your soil is a heavy clay 
or adobe. A light mulch of weed-free straw or peat moss 
spread over the lawn after seeding will help keep the soil 
moist and stimulate better germination. 
WATERING. If soil is especially dry, soak seed bed 
thoroughly before seeding. After seeding sprinkle with a 
fine spray, keeping top soil moist until seedlings are well 
rooted. Don’t allow soil to dry or crust. 
MOWING. As soon as seedlings are 3 inches high, start 
cutting with a sharp mower. Keep lawn cut about 1/2 
to 2 inches high. 
HOW TO REPAIR AN OLD LAWN 
Turn over bare spots to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, adding 
a good fertilizer and a good loam soil if possible. Rake 
surface evenly, seed at same rate listed above, firm ground 
with a roller, unless your soil is heavy clay or adobe, then 
keep well watered until seedlings are well rooted. Don’t let 
newly seeded spots bake or dry out. To repair thin lawns, 
vigorously rake the soil surface to prepare a deep bed. 
Seed at the same rate listed above and cover lightly with 
rich top soil or peat moss. Water carefully and keep the 
surface moist until the seedlings become well rooted. 
Making a Lawn and Its Care 
HOW TO KEEP YOUR LAWN 
IN GOOD CONDITION 
Remember that “grass’’ is a mass of individual plants, 
each with its own requirements of food, moisture and sun- 
light. When Nature’s supply fails, the plant protects itself 
by becoming dormant—its energy retires to the roots and 
the top dies off leaving your lawn an expanse of dry brown 
instead of lush green. While sunlight is beyond your con- 
trol, you can supply food and moisture and it is your job 
to do so before they are desperately needed. Ninety-five 
percent of the grass plant foods is carbon, manufactured 
from carbon dioxide in the air by the chlorophyll in the 
leaves. The remainder—just as vitally needed, consists of 
nitrogen, phosphates, potash and minor elements. Com- 
mercial fertilizers containing the proper proportions are 
available. Ask us. 
FERTILIZING. Apply at least twice a year, early spring 
and early fall. 
WATERING. Hot, dry spells can occur any time. Grass will 
go dormant unless watered. Don’t tease your lawn by light 
frequent sprinkling. Give it a good soaking less often. 
CUTTING. Mowing chops off part of the food factory in 
the leaves. Set your mower for not less than 11% inches 
height. In hot weather allow the blades to grow a little 
longer than usual. This shades the soil, helps retain mois- 
ture. It discourages crab grass, a sun loving hot weather 
plant. 
