“MUMS,” CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued) 
and is distinguished by being surrounded by shoot buds 
which grow around it. Sometimes a second crown bud is 
produced. The terminal type of flower bud is always sur- 
rounded by flower buds. A safe rule to remember is never 
to ‘“‘take’’? crown buds on early and midseason varieties 
that appear before August 15. If no crown buds appear 
on early or midseason varieties, the terminal bud is selected 
or “‘taken.”’ With late varieties the terminal type of 
bud is always ‘‘taken.”’ 
If a crown type of bud is “‘taken” all vegetative or shoot 
buds should be removed. If it is too early to ‘“‘take” the 
crown bud all vegetative shoots except the strongest one 
should be removed along with the crown bud itself. This 
process should not be delayed too long or crooked stems 
will result from the failure of the strongest shoot to grow 
straight. On terminal buds, all the side flower buds are 
removed when large enough to rub out. 
SHADING 
Since the Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant, the use 
of black cloth artificially shortens the day and induces 
earliness of flowering. Standards should be pinched 30-35 
days before shading and they should be at least 15-18 
inches high before shading. Pompons may be pinched just 
before shading. The black cloth should completely enclose 
the plants and is applied at 5 p.m. and removed at 7 to 
7:30 a.m. Nothing is to be gained by allowing the cloth to 
remain over the plants for a longer period of time. Double 
duty may be secured by shading one bed beginning at 
3 p.m. and leaving it on until sundown and then moving 
the cloth to another bed and removing it at 9 a.m. The 
cloth may be applied every night except one for each week, 
but continuous shading is preferred. When the buds of 
Standards are the size of a nickel or when Pompons show 
color, the use of black cloth may be discontinued. On the 
early varieties, flowers may be expected approximately 
8 weeks after shading. Since Chrysanthemums set their 
buds normally around September 1 there is no point in 
beginning to apply black cloth after this date. The black 
cloth is supported by wires over the plants. 
LIGHTING 
To delay flowering, Chrysanthemums may be lighted. 
Reducing the house temperature to delay flowering im- 
pairs quality. Not all varieties respond favorably to light, 
and if carelessly and improperly used it may injure the 
crop. The last pinch should be made 10 days later than 
normal to prevent long necks and imperfect flowers. There 
are several methods of applying light. One is to begin 
applying light August 10-15 and run for 24% hours each 
night beginning after dark. Use 40-watt bulbs, 3 feet above 
the tops of the plants, spaced 4 feet apart. Continue light- 
ing for approximately the same number of days as is 
wished to delay flowering. To prevent heavy, clubby 
growth, keep the nitrogen level low and raise the tem- 
perature to 55 degs. F. 
To spread the crop over a longer period, but not actually 
delay flowering, lights are applied after the buds are the 
size of a nickel. Use the same spacing and duration of 
light as previously described. 
PEST CONTROL 
Chrysanthemums are attacked by many insects and 
allied pests and these must be kept in check if high quality 
is expected. 
Red spider attacks both leaves and flowers. When on 
the flowers very little can be done to control them without 
damaging the flowers. Use Hexatox or bombs. 
Aphids are controlled by cyanide or nicotine fumiga- 
tions. Nicofume at 1-400 is also effective with soap at 
1 cubic inch per gallon or Santomerse Spreader at 
1-1200 are used. 
Thrips are troublesome, as they come in from weeds 
outside the greenhouse or under the bench. D.D.T. is very 
effective. A fine mist produced by high pressure should 
be applied to the upper surface of the foliage to thoroughly 
cover it. 
Leaf roller must be controlled early before the foliage 
becomes too thick to cover it easily with insecticide. A dust 
of 15 parts lead arsenate and 85 parts sulphur is very good. 
Lead arsenate 2 Ibs., and lime 2 lbs., in 50 gallons of water 
is useful before the foliage staining is objectionable. 
Midge. Nicofume liquid at 1-400 with Santomerse 
Spreader is effective and is applied every third night for 
7-8 applications. Do not apply the spray before 10 p.m. 
as the midge do not appear until night. 
Foliar nematode is controlled by Nicofume liquid at 
1-200 with Santomerse Spreader. The material must 
penetrate the leaf to kill the eelworm. Avoid water on the 
foliage as they spread through it. 
Mealy bugs should be sprayed with Fexatox. 
Soil pests including nematodes, symphylids, and grubs, 
are controlled by steam sterilization before planting. 
Once in the bench after planting, use Soilene. 
Sodium selenate or P-40 are being recommended for 
the control of red spider, thrips, aphids and foliar nema- 
todes. It is very worthy of trial and if used according to 
directions should eliminate all spraying and fumigation 
for the pests named above. 
DISEASES 
The most serious of these is verticillium wilt. This disease 
organism lives within the plant and no spray applied to 
the outside or any material placed on the soil will do any 
good. Short tip cuttings should be taken when the plants 
are growing rapidly or the cuttings purchased from reliable 
sources. All soil, pots and tools should be steam sterilized. 
Stem rot is caused by infection in the propagation 
bench, too deep planting, or poor drainage. 
Septoria spot can be controlled by spraying with 1 lb. of 
Ferradow and Santomerse Spreader at 1-1200. Dithane 
Z78 is satisfactory but stains the foliage. 
FLOWERS 
Cutting of flowers before they are fully developed impairs 
the keeping quality. When Standards have expanded and 
the center is no longer green, they are ready. Pompons 
are ready when a majority of flowers are open. Pompons 
are usually sold in 9-oz. bunches. 
62 CARNATION CUTTINGS—ONE OF OUR SPECIALTIES 
