Nerines, Haemanthus, Gloxinias, Begonias, Orchids and most shade loving plants require 
an acid soil. Some like Gladiolus prefer mildly acid to neutral soils; Bearded Iris do best 
in neutral to alkaline soils. The acid-alkali balance depends upon the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in a saturated solution. This is expressed in pH units. pH7 is neutral. 
Below that the acidity increases; above it the alkalinity increases. For the mathematical, 
I will explain that the numeral is the negative logarithm denoting the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in gram atoms per liter. 
In regions having heavy rainfall, excess alkali is usually dissolved and carried away 
by the runoff. Semi-arid regions usually have alkaline soils. Calif. soils usually have too 
much unless cover crops or applications of humus, which are acid, have lowered the pH. 
I am told that Texas soils are sometimes too alkaline. The remedy is obvious. Apply 
humus, ground phosphate rock, or small, even applications of sulphur. Improve the 
drainage. 
Chlorosis of plants, indicated by lighter green streaks of foliage, may not be due 
to a virus disease, in all cases. It may indicate lack of all required nutrients, some of 
which can not go into solution in an alkaline medium. Among such nutrients are Nitrogen 
and Iron which are soluble only in acids. Mild acidity is usually best. 
Potting Directions. Use clean pots of the right size, neither too large nor too small. A 
24%" Amaryllis, for example, needs a 6” pot. A 14%” Eucharis needs a 5” pot. Small 
bulbs like Ranunculus or Achimines may have 3 to 5 in a 5” or 6” pot. Cover the hole 
at bottom with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place a handful of 
spagnum moss to prevent the soil from sifting into and clogging the drainage material. 
The drainage must be perfect and it is essential that the soil above this drainage be 
of a friable texture that permits water to pass thru freely. Only very sandy soil will 
answer this purpose and the sand should be rather sharp and coarse. Add enough sand 
so that it feels very gritty. The potting soil we like best is about 2 parts of peat or leaf 
mould and 1 of sand. If peat is used a little woods earth or pure rotted leaves and twigs 
may be added. Plain dirt, especially if clay is present, or any mixture that becomes 
lumpy when dry is likely to produce poor results. Mulch surface with wet sphagnum to 
prevent erosion when watering and too rapid drying at surface. 
Basketing. Vining or pendant plants like Achimenes, Aeschynanthes and several of 
the other Gesneriaceae, Begonia Lloydii, Ceropegias, etc. look best and do best in our 
wire baskets, altho they can be grown in pots, suspended by the “Snap-on” pot hangers. 
Wire baskets allow perfect drainage and we prefer them also for some orchids like Laelias. 
We offer the best wire baskets made. Painted wire baskets soon rust out. Ours are 
galvanized, polished, not soldered but welded. 
Place a thick layer of wet sphagnum on bottom and sides of basket. It should be 
well compressed and at least 1” or 2” thick. For the center one can use a mixture of 
peat, leaf mould and sand—or any soil formula favorable to the plant. For certain 
Orchids, Episcias and sometimes other plants, we use only sphagnum thruout. 
Fertilizers for pots and baskets. The soils recommended above are low in fertility. 
One cannot add enough to last an entire season. Such an amount would burn the young 
roots as rapidly as formed. A small quantity of dry, powdered dairy manure is safe but 
we seldom use it. We prefer to add 1 tablespoonful of bone meal which is slowly 
soluble and slow acting and a teaspoonful of blood meal, which is strong and quick 
in action, to each 6” potful of soil. Too much blood will burn. When plants are in full 
growth, they may be fed with weak liquid manure, color of weak tea every 3 to 4 
weeks. Spoonit supplies a more complete ration, better balanced and more convenient. 
Use of inorganic forms of nitrogen can have bad results. 
Temperatures and light exposure are discussed with the listings. 
Sources of Further Information. Always consider the source of your information. 
Experience is worth more than reading knowledge. Commercial growers usually have 
had the experience. Please note our Garden Reference Books. Join local Garden Clubs. 
Subscribe for as many Garden Magazines as you have time to read. We especially recom- 
mend The Flower Grower, Dept. H., Albany, N. Y., Popular Gardening, Dept. H., 
Albany, N. Y. Horticulture, Dept. H., Boston 15, Mass. 
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