HOW MUCH, OR HOW MUCH WHAT? 
In most cases, properly blended grass mix- 
tures ere best for year round growth. 
Lawn mixtures contain varied proportions 
of expensive and inexpensive seed. The 
cost of your lawn seed should be de- 
termined by the known percentage of 
these proportions not by the pound of 
mere “lawn seed.’’ When you buy our 
lawn seed mixtures the blend is right and 
the price is right. Whether you are plan- 
ning a new lawn or rebuilding, come in 
and talk it over. 
FOR SUNNY SPOTS 
| ———— 
—- 
Every sunny lawn site is a separate problem. 
No single variety of seed or mixture takes 
care of all situations. But there is a best 
seed or combination for YOUR sunny lawn 
and we know them. Let us help you plan and 
grow the lawn you want, 
- « - OR SHADY LOTS 
Cool shade is an extra difficulty in lawn 
growing. Wherever it exists, you need our 
special shade mixture. These excellent, shade 
enduring grasses and clovers have given 
superb results on many shaded lawns in this 
section. 
- «- OR SPECIAL NEEDS 
and golf courses need 
. all different. 
We have the right seed for all special uses. 
Parks, playgrounds, 
their own types of grass . . 
Just bring your problem to us . . we'll 
furnish the seed you need and the know-how 
to make it grow. 
20 
Lawn Gare Wade Basy 
Like the carpet on the floor, a home is unfurnished and unfinished unless 
your landscaping is built on a fine lawn. There's only one kind of "good" 
lawn—the kind that grows, rich and green in every spot you want it. 
"Cheap" lawn seed is no bargain. It's the kind of seed and the proportions 
of mixture that count in determining a dependable lawn seed value. Fine 
lawns start with very early spring care. 
First—remove all the winter accumulations of leaves and debris by raking. 
Second—Apply plant food as directed by the manufacturer. If grass has 
started, apply when grass is dry, then soak the lawn to wash the plant food 
off the blades and into the soil. 
Third—reseed thin and bare spots using about a pound to each 200 square 
feet. Pulverize the soil in bare spots, then cover the seed lightly. 
Fourth—roll the lawn with a lightweight roller when soil is dry enough. 
WHISK, DON’T RAKE 
Accumulations of debris and leaves on the 
lawn chokes off growth of new grass and 
permits nests for harmful insects. A 
thorough whisking (not a heavy raking 
that uproots new grass) in early spring 
and late fall when the weeds have stopped 
seeding gives old and newly germinated 
grass a head start in the battle against 
weeds. Experts recommend that short clip- 
pings be left on the ground. Long clippings 
should be gathered. 
TWO WATERING IDEAS 
(Left) Watering slopes should be done by 
soaking from the top, this permits the crest 
to get an adequate water supply before 
it runs off to the bottom of the hill. (Right) 
Sprinkling newly seeded areas should be 
done with a misty spray not a stream, 
either by hand or with an efficient sprink- 
ler, otherwise the seed will be displaced 
and gather in pools, thus ruining the even 
distribution of your sowing. 
“STARTING OVER, SOMETIMES PAYS 
(Left) To insure growth from those bare 
and persistently thin areas: Reseed them 
as though starting a new lawn. Dig up and 
pulverize the soil in the bare areas and 
mix with a balanced fertilizer. Reseed, 
then roll it sufficiently to press the seed 
into the soil. (Right) When sowing lawn 
seed in large areas, choose a windless 
day. Sow in two directions; one at right 
angles to the other. 
HOW LOW TO MOW 
Mowing too close or “scalping,” allows 
the hot summer sun to quickly “burn out” 
your lawn, destroying newly germinated 
grass which is left unprotected by shade 
and so weaken the plant structure that it 
cannot survive competition against weeds 
and insects. Mower cutting height should 
be about one and a half inches. Cut when 
growth reaches two and a half inches. 
Vary the route of your cutting. 
