Fences and 
Sfakes 
Staking is done for two reasons... 
first, to help support weak and 
sprawling plants, and second to con- 
serve space. 
If you have a fence around your 
vegetable garden, or even at the back 
of it, utilize it by allowing your pole 
beans or cucumbers to climb them. 
All cucumbers will climb if they are 
permitted to do so. Even those with 
the largest fruits so heavy that you 
might think that they would need sup- 
port, seldom do. 
When staking your tomato plants, 
there are several methods which have 
been proved satisfactory. 
One method used to keep the to- 
matoes off the ground, is a low wood 
trellis and another is the use of a 
barrel hoop, supported about 18 
inches above the ground by stakes 3 
to each hoop. Most commonly used, 
however is a 4-foot (above ground) 
stake to which each plant is tied and 
pruned. If you use this method, set the 
plants 2!/, feet apart each way. 
Peas and limas require brush stakes, 
and the taller growing sorts either 
chicken wire, or a tall brush stake. The 
twiggy brush should be placed at 
planting time. For the tall sorts it 
should be about 4-5 feet high after 
the stems are sunk in the ground. It 
should be close enough together so 
that no wandering tendril will fail to 
find support. 
By succession panting, you can have beans 
in your garden all season. 
PENNSWEET—AIll America Bronze Me- 
dal 1955. 85 days. A very early muskmelon 
with small size fruit. A good yielder of 
high quality, sweet, thick flesh. Recom- 
mended chiefly for short season areas. 
PRIDE OF WISCONSIN—85 days. Small 
seed cavity and thick, orange flesh, excel- 
lent flavor. Matures early. Large size. 
ROCKY FORD—88 days. Fruits small 
with rather large red cavities. Nearly 
round. 215 lbs. No ribs. Flesh thick and 
green with golden tinge at center. Very 
juicy and spicy. Excellent quality. 
Watermelon 
Requires about same culture as musk- 
melons, except the vines need more 
room. Fertilize each hill liberally and 
cultivate thoroughly. 
CONGO—90 days. Oblong, blocky dark 
green fruits faintly striped lighter. Resis- 
tant to Anthracnose. 
DIXIE QUEEN—85 days. Very prolific. 
Bright-red, crisp, splendid quality fibre- 
less flesh. 
KLECKLEY’S SWEET or WONDER- 
MELON—85 days. Large, cylindrical, dark 
bluish-green, with thin, tender rind. 
Bright red, juicy, sweet flesh, creamy- 
white seeds with traces of brown. 
NEW HAMPSHIRE MIDGET—78 days. 
Icebox size, very good flavored straw- 
berry red flesh. The best midget so far 
produced and recommended where stand- 
ard or large sized watermelons do not 
mature satisfactorily. 
STONE MOUNTAIN—85 days. Also called 
Dixie Belle. High quality shipping va- 
riety. Fruits very large, oval-round, blunt 
ends. Dark green, tough rind. Flesh rich, 
scarlet, fine grained, sweet. Seed white 
with black tips. 
TOM WATSON—92 days. Red heart strain. 
Large fruit, uniform cylindrical. 
Mustard 
Sow as early as possible in the spring. 
Keep rows 6’ to 12” apart and cover 
with soil 15” deep. You may also sow 
seed in autumn to raise greens. 
FORDHOOK FANCY—50 days. Upright 
growing, mild variety. Bright green 
leaves, plume-like and deeply fringed. 
SOUTHERN GIANT CURLED—40 days. 
Large, frilled and crumpled. Light green 
leaves. 
TENDERGREEN—35 days. Wholesome, 
quick growing green, combining mustard 
and spinach flavors. 
Okra or Gumbo 
Sow in rows about 3” apart. Cover 
seeds with about 1” of fine soil firmly 
successive yields. 
middle of July. 
July. 
pressed down. Thin plants 18” to 24” 
apart when they reach 3” growth. Do not 
plant until ground is warm, as this is a 
tender, hot weather plant. Pick before 
woody fibres develop. 
CLEMSON SPINELESS—55 days. Pods are 
rich green, straight, uniform ridged and 
of best quality. 
DWARF LONG POD—65 days. Early, 
prolific dwarf growing sort. Dark green 
fluted, 5 to 7-in. pointed pods. Most de- 
sirable, compact growing okra. 
PERKIN’S MAMMOTH—68 days. Early 
and prolific. Very tender, long pods. Deep 
green and slightly corrugated. 
Onions 
Plant as soon as soil can be prepared. 
For best yield, plant on very fertile land 
—fall plowed, and thoroughly fertilized. 
When the plants are a few inches tall, 
thin to prevent crowding — using the 
plants removed as green onions. Leave 
4” apart for globe-types and 6” for the 
big Spanish types to mature for dry 
onions. Latter can also be started indoors 
for larger bulbs and can be set out 6” 
apart after frost danger has passed. All 
onions need liberal feeding and watering. 
Those left to become fully ripe can be 
stored for winter. Cultivate and hand 
weed every two weeks in summer. 
Yellow Varieties 
YELLOW SWEET SPANISH—112 days. 
Large, globe-shaped, exceptionally mild 
and sweet—excellent for eating raw or 
boiled. Light yellow skin and pure white, 
firm, crisp, and tasty flesh. 
YELLOW GLOBE EARLY—95 days. An 
oval shaped straw-colored onion. White 
flesh, crisp and mild. Splendid keeper. 
White Varieties 
SOUTHPORT WHITE GLOBE—115 days. 
Best of the whites, Medium-sized, round, 
solid white bulbs, fine thin skin. Waxy 
white flesh, mild and fine grained. 
WHITE BUNCHING—95 days. A_ good 
Spring appetizer. Crisp and mild. Fine for 
cooking when grown larger. 
WHITE PORTUGAL or SILVERSKIN— 
100 days. Excellent flat variety. Depend- 
able cropper, excellent for sets, for green 
bunching, or as a pickler. 
Red Varieties 
SOUTHPORT RED GLOBE—110 days. 
Finest of all red onions. Perfectly round, 
good sized bulbs with thick, small necks. 
Skin is deep purplish-red. Strong flavored 
flesh, white tinged with pink. Good 
keeper, productive. 
Plant Early and Replant Later 
To get the most out of your garden, plan to plant and replant certain crops for 
BUSH SNAPBEANS—every two weeks until the middle of August. BUSH LIMAS 
—two plantings. First, after all danger of frost and second first week in June. 
POLE SNAPBEANS—early and late. Two plantings until July 15. 
BEETS—successive plantings after all danger of frost, every two weeks until 
CABBAGE—three plantings. First and second from plants started inside, and 
third crop sown in the open ground between the middle of June to the first of 
CARROTS—two crops, early spring and first of June. CORN—early mid-season 
and late varieties. KALE—early spring and midsummer. 
LETTUCE—April to May and then again in August. For a continuous supply 
sow seed every two weeks or plant varieties that mature at different dates. ~. — 
ONIONS—sets early, followed by plants from seed. SPINACH—Cool season 
type and warm season type. TURNIPS—two crops. 
