D1. AB. Stout's flybsid Daylilies 
Fer Maximum Garden Beauty... Minimum Garden Later 
WHY: Good daylilies take care of 
themselves. Insects do not bother 
them and they have no characteristic 
diseases, They thrive in spite of weeds 
or neglect. They last for a lifetime. 
Dr. A. B. Stout’s thirty-five years 
of concentrated and scientific effort 
have resulted in the following im- 
provements to daylilies. Improve- 
ments which have caused daylilies to 
become a feature, a mainstay and a 
boon to all gardens. 
1—NEW SEASONS: A bloom range 
of five months instead of two. Year- 
round in the deep south. 
2—NEW SIZES: Blooms as small as 
freesia, as large as amaryllis. 
3—NEW HEIGHTS: Ranging from 
the one-foot Elfin to the 51% foot 
Autumn Minaret. 
4—IMPROVED HABITS: More stems, 
more branches, more buds; conse- 
quently more blooms and longer bloom 
seasons. Spent blooms drop quickly 
and do not remain to detract from 
their successors. Blooms which do not 
wilt, burn, bleach, blotch or curl at a 
touch of unfavorable weather. Mostly 
varieties which remain open evenings. 
Bloom stems or scapes are neither too 
heavy nor too light for the type of 
blooms they bear. 
5—NEW TYPES: Bunch flowered. 
Twiggy branched. Tree-branched. 
Full, not “spidery,’’ blossoms. 
6—NEW COLORS: Red. Maroon. 
Purple. Pink. Peach. Buff. Brown. 
Palest clear yellow to ivory. Many 
shades of yellow and orange. Even- 
toned. Patterned. In Combinations. 
7—NEW PATTERNS: Eyed. Bicol- 
ored. Banded. Radiate. Three-toned. 
Flushed. Recurved. 
8—NEW DOUBLES: Now being eval- 
uated. Some introductions, possibly 
1954. 
WHEN to plant: All Farr daylily 
orders are freshly and specially dug 
from the fields for each order; safely 
shipped and planted thru spring, sum- 
mer and fall. So safely that we re- 
place, no charge, if any failures. The 
best time to plant is NOW, whenever 
you and the location are ready. Noth- 
ing to be gained by waiting. A plant 
set out in July is a month ahead of a 
plant set out in August. However, 
where zero winters and winter heav- 
ing, the last fall planting should be in 
time to permit a little root growth 
and anchorage against heaving before 
winter arrives. 
WHERE to plant: Daylilies thrive 
from Alaska to Bermuda. They flour- 
ish in the poorest and most varied of 
soils, during the hottest and driest 
of summer conditions. They are suit- 
able for any part of the garden except 
in wet or heavily shaded areas. They 
prefer the full sun and dryness of 
summer. Their wild ancestors revel 
in sod, or gravel and cinder banks, in 
the rock ballast of railroad tracks. 
Whether soil is sweet or acid is of no 
consequence, so long as it is not 
“gummy” and is well drained. 
HOW to plant: Depth should not 
exceed one inch of soil above the 
point where roots and foilage meet. 
Spread the roots and firm the soil 
while planting. Spacing should aver- 
age two feet between plants. Loosen 
WEISER PARK, PA. 
the soil, if heavy, with sand and/or 
peat. Water the new plants until 
signs of new growth are apparent. 
Use fertilizer very sparingly, if at all, 
when planting. Best to wait and apply 
surface feedings later on. 
HOW TO USE DAYLILIES: Use day- 
lilies as you would colors to liven a 
black and white picture. Individual 
plants here and there, throughout all 
sections of the premises, will result 
in everlasting, ever improving and 
ever exciting points of beauty and in- 
terest. Whenever and wherever a spot, 
or an area, is dull or unsightly, try 
daylilies. Remember that you can 
plant, or transplant and rearrange 
them safely at most any time, to pro- 
duce and be sure of the exact pictures 
you desire. Use them especially to liv- 
en the otherwise bloom sparce summer 
months. When age, or circumstances, 
discourage the labor which roses, 
gladioli, annuals, etc., require, plant 
daylilies and let them take care of 
themselves. 
Use daylilies as cut flowers. Get to 
know and own those which remain 
open evenings. Cut them just before, 
or as, the buds open for easy handling 
and no bruising. Combine them, in 
arrangements, with other flowers such 
as Japanese Irises, Delphinium, Shasta 
Daisies, Gaillardia, Rudbeckia; with 
their own foliage, or with that of 
Copper Beech, Japanese Maple, Dog- 
wood, Dock, Taxus (Yews), etc. 
TRANSPLANTING: When trans- 
planting, divide clumps into natural 
divisions and cut the foliage back to 
six-inch height. Thin out and remove 
the oldest roots entirely. Cut tips off 
the remainder of the roots. Force the 
new plants off to a fresh start instead 
of letting them sulk on their old sub- 
stance. 
FEEDING: Most, of few, daylily trou- 
bles, are caused by overfeeding or 
wrong feeding. Nitrogenous feeding 
to garden plants produces lush and 
tender growth which insects prefer, 
permits little bloom and blights easily. 
Dried blood, tankage, sheep manure, 
etc., are poison to most hardy garden 
plants. Bone meal is inadequate, in- 
complete, seldom of good quality. 
Feed daylilies if you must, but only 
lightly and only with a complete fer- 
tilizer; i. e., one which contains super- 
phosphate and potash with a mini- 
mum of nitrogen. Most plants derive 
sufficient nitrogen needs from the air. 
It’s the phosphate and the potash 
which support bloom and vigor. 
PROTECTION: Don’t “protect” day- 
lilies for winter unless they are 
planted so late that they have no 
chance to establish new anchor roots 
against winter heaving. And then use 
only light, non-soggy materials such 
as excelsior or glass wool, around, not 
over the plants. No materials will 
keep the plants warmer in winter and 
many materials will smother or rot 
them. All you can do, helpfully, is to 
insulate the surrounding soil against 
quick changes in temperature, against 
heaving. 
