Like cut flowers, chrysanthemum pot plants are very 
profitable the year-around. To flower pot plants the 
year-around, it is necessary to lay out a plan and fol- 
low it to the nth degree. In the following pages, you 
will find a schedule that has been working successfully 
for the past several years. 
High quality pot plants can only be grown when alll 
cultural conditions are optimum. Give ample space 
immediately after pinching. 
A good, fibrous silt loam directly from the field, to 
which one-third of well-rotted manure or German peat 
has been added, plus an application of super-phos- 
phate will give excellent results. Steam sterilization of 
the soil is advisable. You can plant immediately after 
steaming, provided you water heavily after planting 
the cuttings. 
Watering and Humidity 
After planting, water thoroughly to set the soil around 
the roots. Repeat this type of watering when the soil 
gets dry. Organic matter in the soil will facilitate water- 
ing and will tend to avoid extreme fluctuations in mois- 
ture supply. You can overwater a chrysanthemum as 
easily as a poinsettia plant. Overwatering will rot the 
roots, and the tops will take on a very yellow color. 
For best results grow all potted chrysanthemums 
under glass. Do not shade the glass any more than 
necessary. Usually a light shade is necessary In mid 
summer. Shade on the glass is only there for the con- 
venience of the grower and not for the requirements 
of the plant. Keep humidity in the house by wetting 
down benches and walks, and by an occasional syring- 
ing over the plants. 
Fertilizing 
The foliage should retain a bright green luster through- 
out the life of the plant. The lower leaves should never 
be allowed to turn a light green due to low fertility. 
A strong well-grown pot plant is a well-fed plant. Pot 
plants should be fed more frequently than those grown 
in a bench, as constant leaching lowers the nutrient 
level in pots faster than in bench culture. 
Liquid fertilizers are very effective. Weekly feedings 
have produced excellent results. After the cuttings are 
planted, water the plants in with a weak solution (starter 
solution) of ammonium sulfate. Feed every week with 
a half strength ammonium sulfate, 1 ounce to 4 gallons 
of water. When buds are visable, feed with 15-30-15, 
15-15-15, or 20-20-20 at the rate of | ounce to 4 gal- 
lons of water. Last feeding should be made when the 
plants are ready to sell. During the winter months do 
not feed as frequently. 
Brown edges on the margins of the leaves during the 
summer have been attributed to too much phosphate 
and potassium in the soil or in the fertilizer. Some 
growers have preferred to go easy on these elements, 
and their plants showed very little of the marginal 
burning during the hot summer days. 
Temperature 
Chrysanthemum pot plants do much better when grown 
as a 65-degree crop. Lower temperatures will cause 
an uneven and poor growth. After color shows, finish 
in a cooler temperature. The pinks and bronzes will 
be a better color when allowed to develop their color 
in a bright cool house. 
Shading and Disbudding 
Use same procedure as for cut flower crop. Black 
cloth treatment should continue until the buds are 
taken. The last pinch is usually made the same day 
short-day treatment is started. However, if you are 
troubled with tall potted plants, delay the last pinch 
10 to 14 days after starting the shading program. Dis- 
bud each shoot to one bud when buds are large 
enough to handle. 
