Flower Seed Cultures —How to Sow 
A,B,C,D, and E we cover in consider- 
able detail the methods of starting 
flower seeds which are available to the 
amateur without a greenhouse, and which 
cover well the needs of an outdoor gar- 
den. In the flower seed section in the 
case of each flower listed, informa- 
tion is given as to the cultural methods 
which can be used for that subject. 
I N FIVE paragraphs below, designated 
While our cultural instructions are 
definite, detailed and exceptionally 
thorough, they should be supplemented 
by reading in good gardening books and 
by obtaining, at irst hand, advice 
from successful gardeners’ in your 
neighborhood. Success in gardening 
requires study, and the opportunity for 
enlarging one’s information and trying 
out new things is one of the most fas- 
Cinating features of gardening. 
Sow in the bed, border or row 
where the plants are to grow. 
The soil should be loamy, with 
well pulverized surface. With 
well pulverized surface. With heavy soil 
inclined to cake and crack, it is us- 
ually best to grow plants in a seed 
bed (B) and transplant to the perman- 
ent place. Loosen the soil where seeds 
are to be sown, with the trowel, or 
hoe, several inches deep. Rake smooth. 
Broadcast small seeds and cover them 
lightly four or five times their di- 
ameter. Very small seeds may be merely 
pressed in. Larger seeds may be planted 
singly, well covered, but more thickly 
than plants are wanted. Firm the soil 
well over the seed. Watering now be- 
comes of great importance. At no time 
should the soil be allowed to become 
hard and dry, yet excessive watering 
may cause the seeds to rot, sour the 
soil, or cause ‘‘damping off.’°’* When 
the plants appear, thin them out, allow- 
ing each to grow singly, without crowd- 
ing. The distance between them is gov- 
erned by their ultimate size and spread. 
Excess plants may usually be moved to 
a new location. 
Sow in outdoor seed bed, to be 
8 transplanted. The seed bed in 
the open should be of loose, 
mellow loam, raised slightly above the 
surrounding surface, and_ preferably 
surrounded byba wooden curb, to pre- 
vent rain washing across it. It should 
not be wider than four feet, so it can 
be worked easily. Shelter from high 
winds is valuable, but damp and shady 
corners are not desirable. Full sun is 
advisable when seedlings are up, while 
shade when needed, as in midsummer for 
perennial seedlings, is best supplied 
by a lath or cloth canopy, which can be 
removed in damp and cloudy weather. 
Sow the seeds in rows which may be as 
close as five inches. Sowing and water- 
ing are the same as described in ‘*A’’ 
above. Seedlings may be transplanted 
when they make true leaves, the second 
pair of leaves to appear; or they may 
be left until larger before being moved 
to their permanent location. Perennials 
should be moved from the seed bed to a 
nursery row, to grow until fall before 
being moved to the border. 
Sow in flat, pot or pan outdoors 
or in a cold frame This method 
is applicable to slow germinating 
subjects, some of which may take a year 
to germinate. Fill the receptacle with 
potting soil as described in ‘*D’’ firm 
the soil and broadcast the seed, cover- 
ing four or five times their diameter. 
Place the receptacle in a shaded loca- 
tion, where there is free air circula- 
tion. During the spring, summer and 
fall, water often enough to prevent 
soil from drying out. A mulch of peat 
moss will help retain moisture. In 
winter, place in a_ protected place 
outdoors and cover with leaves. Have 
patience with slow germinating subjects; 
do not disturb too quickly. Any live 
seed will eventually grow if given time 
enough, provided soil, moisture supply, 
etc., are right. When seedlings appear 
and make true leaves, transplant to 
ots, nursery row or permanent location. 
vf moss forms on soil surface, sprinkle 
fresh earth over top. 
Sow indoors in a box, pot or pan. 
D This method may be followed where 
there is a window facing south, 
enjoying sunlight most of the day. Use 
a standard florists’ pot or pan (shallow 
pot) or a ‘‘flat,’* which is a_ shallow 
box, with holes bored in the bottom for 
drainage. Cover the drainage holes in 
pot or box with broken pottery; fill 
with potting soil. This is a mixture of 
pot or box with broken pottery; fill 
with potting soil. This is a mixture 
of half sand and half black loam. It 
may be obtained from florists. Firm 
the soil, and sow the seeds in rows, 
marking each row to identify the sow- 
ing. Water by setting the box or pot 
in water, so that it soaks up from 
below, or use a fine spray which does 
not wash the soil. Place in a dark 
place, covered with a wet newspaper 
blanket until the seeds sprout. As 
soon as sprouts appear bring into full 
light. Cover the box or pot with glass 
to check evaporation, but when moisture 
collects on glass wipe it off, and prop 
up one end of the glass to allow air 
to circulate during the sunny part of 
the day. A temperature not below 50 
degrees at night, or 75 degrees by day 
is best. Do not allow the soil to dry 
out. When the seedlings have made true 
leaves (the second set), they should 
be transplanted to other flats, giving 
at least two inches of space apart; or 
they may be moved to small pots or to 
an outdoor seed bed or border. 
Sow in a hotbed or cold frame. 
A cold frame or a hotbed heated 
by manure or other means may be 
used. The best method with flower 
seeds is to sow seeds in flats, which 
are placed in the frame. Wihe manure 
heated bees, seeds should not be sown 
until the temperature of the newly made 
bed has dropped to 90 degrees. Watering 
and ventilation are important. On sunn 
days, always i up one end of the sas 
to prevent overheating which may occur 
quigicty and cause spindly growth. Do 
not allow the soil to dry out. When the 
seedlings have made true leaves, they 
should be transplanted to other flats, 
“paaee two inches apart each way; or to 
the soil in hte hotbed, or to an out- 
door location, if late enough. 
18 
J. HOWARD FRENCH 
