labor. Nor should plants be over-fed or fed at all if sick or thirsty. But since one cannot 
add much rich food when potting a bulb, very good results may be obtained by a monthly 
feeding of very weak liquid manure, color of very weak tea. A more convenient way 
is to use Spoonit, which we list under Garden Supplies. 
After blooming, many neglect their bulbs. As a result the bulbs do not flower the 
following year. For success one must continue to give good culture. This is the time to 
fertilize, irrigate and cultivate frequently, until yellowing foliage indicates the bulb 1s 
becoming dormant. During this growth period next year’s flower buds are formed. 
Depth of planting and distance apart often cause too much concern. Bulbs usually 
have sufficient adaptability to do well under widely varying conditions. If left in one 
place a few years, most bulbs adjust themselves to their preferred depth. Approximately, 
bulbs should be about 2 or 3 times their diameter apart unless their habit of growth is 
spreading—like Ranunculus. In such cases plant farther apart. Bulbs as large as Daffodils 
may be 4”to 6” deep. Bulbs with a heavy erect stem need deep planting in order to 
remain erect. Plant deeper in light sandy soil than in heavy soils and in cold climates to 
protect them from frost. 
Pests. Snails, slugs, ants, mealy bugs, thrips, aphis, leaf hoppers, mites, red spider 
and scale are among the most serious pests in the garden or on house and greenhouse 
plants. They must be controlled. See our listing of Insecticides under Garden Supplies. 
Acid and Alkaline Soils. Most plants thrive in mildly acid, neutral or mildly alkaline 
soils. But others do not have so wide a range of tolerance. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, 
Camellias, Gardenias, Zantdeschias, Caladiums (and other members of Arum family), 
Nerines, Haemanthus, Gloxinias, Begonias, Orchids and most shade loving plants require 
an acid soil. Some like Gladiolus prefer mildly acid to neutral soils; Bearded Iris do best 
in neutral to alkaline soils. The acid-aikali balance depends upon the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in a saturated solution. This is expressed in pH units. pH7 is neutral. 
Below that the acidity increases; above it the alkalinity increases. For the mathematical, 
I will explain that the numeral is the negative logarithm denoting the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in gram atoms per liter. 
In regions having heavy rainfall, excess alkali is usually dissolved and carried away 
by the runoff. Semi-arid regions usually have alkaline soils. Calif. soils usually have too 
much unless cover crops or applications of humus, which are acid, have lowered the pH. 
I am told that Texas soils are sometimes too alkaline. The remedy is obvious. Apply 
humus, ground phosphate rock, or small, even applications of sulphur. Improve the 
drainage. 
Chlorosis of plants, indicated by lighter green streaks of foliage, may not be due 
to a virus disease, in all cases. It may indicate lack of all required nutrients, some of 
which cannot go into solution in an alkaline medium. Among such nutrients are Nitrogen 
and Iron which are soluble only in acids. Mild acidity is usually best. 
Potting Directions. Use clean pots of the right size, neither too large nor too small. A 
24%" Amaryllis, for example, needs a 6” pot. A 1/2” Eucharis needs a 5” pot. Small 
bulbs like Ranunculus or Achimenes may have 3 to 5 in a 5” or 6” pot. Cover the hole 
at bottom with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place a handful of 
sphagnum moss to prevent the soil from sifting into and clogging the drainage material. 
The drainage must be perfect and it is essential that the soil above this drainage be 
of a friable texture that permits water to pass thru freely. Only very sandy soil will 
answer this purpose and the sand should be rather sharp and coarse. Add enough sand 
so that it feels very gritty. The potting soil we like best is about 2 parts of peat or leaf 
mould and 1 of sand. If peat is used a little woods earth or pure rotted leaves and twigs 
may be added. Plain dirt, especially if clay is present, or any mixture that becomes 
lumpy when dry is likely to produce poor results. Mulch surface with wet sphagnum to 
prevent erosion when watering and too rapid drying at surface. 
Basketing. Vining or pendant plants like Achimenes, Aeschynanthes and several of 
the other Gesneriaceae, Begonia Lloydii, Ceropegias, etc. look best and do best in our 
wire baskets, altho they can be grown in pots, suspended by the “Snap-on” pot hangers. 
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