Agapanthus, Blue Lily of the Nile. They flower here in June to Aug. In the north 
they must be grown in large pots or tubs and wintered in a frost free room. Plant in 
full sun exposure in any good garden soil that drains well. 
Agapanthus longispathus. Similar to well known A. orientalis, but smaller and earlier 
to flower. Profuse bloomer. For pot growing. 50c, 3 for $1.25. 
A. orientalis. Dark Blue. Larger than longispathus. Superior clone, $1.50. 
A. orientalis. Sky Blue. 75c. 
A. orientalis alba. Pure White. $2.00. 
A. von Weillighi hybrids. Selected clone. A giant type, very large, round umbel of 
blue flowers on a tall stem. Late flowering, extending the season. $2.50. 
Alstroemeria (pronounced-stre, not stro). The Peruvian Lily. Many showy flowers in 
an umbel on long, slender, stiff stems. The pastel tones are rich and varied, long lasting 
and popular as cut flowers. Spring blooming. 
Culture. They must have good underdrainage and therefore if possible, sandy soil. 
In heavy soil, their cultivation is made possible by the plentiful addition of sand and 
leaf mould. 60% to 75% sun exposure. Natives of Semi-tropical America, they have been 
grown as far north as New Jersey in the garden. This has been possible by planting large 
tubers about 5” or 6” deep and giving a heavy mulch. There is some danger of freezing 
and consequent loss in the north the first two winters. By that time they have usually 
deepened themselves below the depth of frost penetration. We cannot guarantee against 
loss by freezing, but we offer large tubers that will help. 
Alstroemeria chilensis hybrids, assorted colors, red, rose, pink, cream, white in a 
multitude of shades. Separate colors not available. Large tubers 50c. 
A. pulchella. Smaller plant. Umbels of green and red fls. 40c. 
A. assorted varieties. These will be smaller clumps. 40c. $4/doz. 
A. Seed. Assorted varieties. Plant as soon as received. Packet, 50c. 
Amarcrinum Howardi. Bigeneric hybrid of Brunsvigia rosea and Crinum moorei. 
Beautiful, fragrant, pure pink fls. Fall bloomer. Culture like Crinums. Hardy to So, Indi- 
ana. Large bulbs, $3.00. 
Amaryllis Linn. This genus as constructed by Linnaeus was untenable because he 
included plants now known to belong to other genera. The invalid name Hippeastrum 
was used by both Herbert and Baker, but now we are scientifically correct when we use 
the name that has always been most popular. 
Amaryllis are the easiest, the most showy and popular of all bulbs for growing in 
pots. Equally desirable for southern gardens where they are hardy along the east coast 
to N. Car. and on the west to Vancouver. In the middle section they may be grown as far 
north as Ark. and Okla., but note special directions for colder sections. 
How to Grow Amaryl In the garden, in the deep south where temperatures go 
only a few degrees under freezing, Amaryllis bulbs need to be covered only about an inch 
or two. Farther north they may be planted deeper in protected places and mulched with 
straw, leaves and/or brush. In Okla., a customer reports a depth of 4” with mulch is safe. 
Try our “Hardy Hybrids.” Amaryllis must not be planted close to trees, shrubs or large 
vigorous plants, whose roots compete and take the moisture. Irrigate frequently. Rain is 
seldom enough. The most common error is lack of sufficient moisture. They are endemic 
to the tropics and in many cases, where there is almost daily rain. The soil should contain 
much humus. Add well rotted manure and if not slightly acid, add some peat but do 
not acidify the soil with sulphur or aluminum sulphate. We do not advise planting 
imported, greenhouse grown bulbs in the outside garden. They seldom do well outside. 
In Pots. A 2!4” bulb requires a 6” pot. Give a 3” to 3%” bulb a 7” pot. Remove 
dead roots but every vestige of living root should be left on. Our best success in flowering 
Amaryllis and in growing them on to larger, better bulbs is in a soil mixture composed 
of clean, sharp sand one part by volume and a mixture of pure organic material two or 
three parts. The latter may be pure peat or about half peat and half well broken up or 
decayed leaf mould, woods earth or completely reduced compost. The final mixture 
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