GARDEN PLANTING TIPS 
(continued from previous page) 
Peppers 
Plant early in the house or hot-bed 
and transplant to field when ground is 
warm, 
Give each plant not less than 1 inch 
space in the hot-bed, rows 4 imches 
apart. 
They like rich soil and warm weather. 
Irish Potatoes 
Use our potato seed sets or cut your 
own seed pieces, If you cut your own, be 
sure that each piece will have two or 
three eyes. The pieces are planted 4 
inches deep and 12 to 14 inches apart in 
rows 3 to 3% feet apart. Spring planting 
is made as soon as danger of heavy frost 
is over and late plantings should be made 
any time from the last of June to August 
15th. Good cultivation is important. Af- 
ter digging the potatoes do not allow 
them to remain in the open sun. Store 
in a dry, well ventilated, cool place. 
Sweet Potatoes 
Sweet potatoes can be started in hot 
beds about six weeks before time to set 
out. Good, sound sweet potatoes should 
be placed in a bed as close as possible 
without touching and covered with about 
two inches of clean sand. Plants are then 
set on low ridges about 12 to 16 inches 
apart in rows 3 feet apart. Set out in 
the garden after all danger of frost is 
past. Harvest the crop right after the 
first frost. Allow potatoes to dry out in 
the sun for four or five hours. Be care- 
ful not to bruise. Store in a dry, warm, 
well ventilated storage place. 
Radish—See Chart 
Plant often so that you can always 
have them crisp and tender. 
Use them fresh from the garden be- 
fore they become tough and woody. 
Plant the long varieties for late spring 
and summer use. 
Plant the winter varieties in late July 
when you plant late turnips and thin to 
at least six inches in the row. 
Salsify— 
See Chart 
Dig just before 
hard freezing 
weather and store 
in a shallow pit 
where it will freeze, 
for freezing im- 
proves the flavor. 
It is especially 
An easy way to plant fine in soups either 
tiny seeds. alone or with other 
vegetables or with oysters. 
Spinach 
Plant early in rows 14 inches apart, 
covering the seed from three-fourth to 
one inch deep. - 
Thin later to about 3 or 4 inches in the 
row. One ounce will drill 100 feet; one 
packet, 25 feet. fe 
Plant as early as possible, for it is 
most appreciated early in the season. 
Spinach can be planted in late summer 
and carried over winter by mulching 
same as for strawberries. 
Squash—See Chart 
For large seeded squash figure 25 hills 
to the ounce of seed and for small seed 
50 hills to the ounce. 
Summer Squashes are delicious if used 
before they are a third or half grown. 
Combat squash bugs by dusting with 
Henry Field’s Bug Dust. 
Spaghetti Squash 
Spaghetti squash is ready to use when 
the shell gets so hard you can’t dent it 
with your thumb nail. Some like to bake 
the squashes whole, just as they come 
from the garden, and 45 minutes in a 
good hot oven is usually about right to 
do the job well. After baking, break the 
squash open, remove the seeds, the 
fleshy part comes out very easily, but- 
ter it liberally and season to taste. You 
have a real treat in store. 
We have been told that the spaghetti 
squash may also be cooked—in other 
words, just drop the squash in a kettle 
of water and give a good thorough boil- 
ing. 
Let us hear how you like our spaghetti 
squash, 
Sweet Corn—See Chart 
Make an early planting and 
in a week or ten days another 
between the rows of that first 
planting. 
For succession, plant an 
early, an intermediate and a 
late variety at the same time. 
Or make several plantings of 
your favorite variety, or 
plant our special blend which ripens in 
succession. 
Be sure not to plant sweet corn close, 
or you will have only fodder and no ears 
to eat. 
To prevent ear worms, dust the silks 
with Henry Field’s Bug Dust. Give first 
dusting when silks are an inch long (be- 
fore worms appear). 
40 
Free Booklet on Freezing 
Fruits and Vegetables 
Write the U. S. Department of Agri- 
eulture, Office of Information, Washing- 
ton 25, D. C., for their new Farmer’s 
Bulletin 1848, ‘“‘“Home Freezing of Fruits 
and Vegetables.”’ It’s free for the asking 
and a good one too. Just write directly 
to the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. 
Watermelons—See Chart 
Drop 6 seeds to the hill and thin later 
when bugs are gone to 2 plants to hill. 
Figure 50 hills to the ounce of seed. 
If you want extra big melons, keep all 
but two or three on the vine picked off 
as fast as they appear. 
If you plant in hills, make them not 
closer than 8 x 10 feet and as far apart 
as 12 x 12 feet, or even farther, some- 
times. 
At this distance some growers allow 
only one plant to the hill. 
A dull green color indicates a ripe mel- 
on and a bright green color an unripe 
melon. 
About Canning 
Space is too limited to give you all the 
information you would want about can- 
ning, but you can easily get full and very 
excellent directions by writing to the 
Bureau of Home Economics, Dept. of 
Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Other 
detailed instructions may be obtained by 
writing to the Kerr Glass Mfg. Corp., 
2913 Main St., Sand Springs, Okla. They 
put out excellent books on canning which 
cost you only 15c. 
By all means, everyone should can 
‘ plenty of vegetables, and fruit this year. 
Be sure you have plenty to eat by 
GROWING YOUR OWN and CANNING 
YOUR OWN. 
A CANNING PLANNING GUIDE 
Am't. 
to Pre- 
serve 
Home- 
Grown 
Vegetables 
an 
Fruits 
How to Preserve Amount to Plant: 
Per Person 
Per 
Person| Preferred Other 
PerYr.| Method Methods 
VEGETABLES 
Spring | Fall 
GROUP 1 | 
Tomatoes. ,.| 30 qt. |Canning 
GROUP 2 
Cabbage... 
fCatsup 
\Chilisauce 15 Plants 
casa 
Canning i 
. |Pit storage 
Kraut... .. 
. |Pit storage Canning 
. |Pit storage |..........] 10 ft. 
. |Pit storage Canning | 10 ft. | 10 ft. 
. |Dry storage |........ 20 ft. 
. |Dry storage 20 ft. 
String beans. Canning... . ‘coe } 
reezing 
Canning 
60 ft. 
8 crowns 
4 plants 
8 plants 
45 ft. 
105 ft. 
100 ft. 
Asparagus... 
4 Freezing * 
Broccoli. . i 
Freezing 
Freezing 
fCanning } 
\ Drying 
Beans dried. 
Corn....... 
GROUP 6 
. |Drying 
. |Canning 
. |Freezing 
‘Drying 
Salting 
. |Cellar 
. | Dry storage 
. |Dry storage 
GROUP 1 
Apples . |fCellar 
Veena 
Canning 
\ Freezing 
Canning 
Peaches Use also 
for jelly, 
Pears: ...... 
GROUP 2 
Cherries {Canning 
‘\Freezing 
Canning 
Canning 
sCanning 
) Freezing 
spicing 
About Inoculation 
We get hundreds of letters each year 
asking whether inoculating garden seed 
with ‘‘Nitragin’’ pays. The answer is, 
YES, DECIDEDLY, YES. It is only of 
value on garden peas, beans and Sweet 
Peas, but on these it makes a world of 
difference in the vigor of the plant and 
the amount of yield. We sell many thou- 
sands of packets each year. A 15c pkt. is 
enough for the average gardener as 1 
pkt. treats 5 Ib. of seed. Easy to apply. 
Full directions on the package. fi 
Another big aid to improving crops is 
the new Hormone-Vitamin concentrate 
“GROW-AID,”’ which stimulates quick 
root growth and makes for quicker and 
heavier crops on all garden seeds, flower 
seeds and nursery stock. It is relatively 
new, but works wonders wherever used. 
Try it this year and make your garden 
EXTRA high-yielding. 
Tomato—See Chart 
Sow seed eight to ten weeks before 
setting in the field. 
Any of the early bunch vegetables can 
be grown between the tomato rows. 
Drive three stakes around a tomato 
plant and fasten a barrel hoop to them 
and allow the plant to grow up through. 
This will act as a support. 
PRUNING: Tomato vines are trained 
to a single stem, or two stems, You can 
pinch out the terminal bud when the 
plants reach the height of about 5 ft. 
The vines should be gone over each week 
and any’ new shoots starting out from 
the main stem should be pinched off. Do 
not pinch off the blossom stem. If you 
are in doubt, allow this bud to remain 
until the next week. 
Henry Field Seed & Nursery Co., “MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, low 
Crop Features to Utilize 
Crops Occupying the Ground AI of the 
Growing Season: Beans (Pole, Snap), 
Beans (Pole, Lima), Chard (Swiss), Cu- 
cumbers, Eggplant, Muskmelon, Okra, 
Onions, Parsley, Parsnip, Peppers, Sweet 
Potatoes, Irish Late Potatoes, Pump- 
kins, Salisfy, Squash. (Winter), Spinach 
(New Zealand), Tomatoes, Watermelons. 
Crops Occupying Ground Part of Sea- 
son and May Be Followed by Others: 
Beans (Bush), Beets, Cabbage, Cabbage 
(Chinese), Carrots, Corn, Kale, Kohl- 
rabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Onions (Green), 
Peas, Potatoes (Early), Spinach, Turnip 
(Spring), Rutabaga (Spring). 
Crops 
Beans (Bush), Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, 
Corn, Celery, Lettuce, Mustard, Late 
Potatoes, Rutabaga (Fall), Spinach, 
Turnips (Fall). 
Crops Which May Be Utilized in Inter- 
planting: (Early, quick-maturing, nar- 
row-spaced) Beans (Bush), Beets 
(Early), Carrots (Early), Lettuce, Mus- 
tard, Onions (Sets), Peas (Early), Rad- 
ish, Spinach. (Later, slower-growing, 
wider-spaced) Broccoli, Brussels Sprout, 
Corn, Cucumber, Muskmelons, Cabbage, 
Pumpkins, Spinach (New Zealand), To- 
matoes, Squash, Watermelons. 
Crops Which May Be Planted Together 
in the Same Row: (Quick-germinating 
and maturing) Lettuce (Leaf), Mustard 
Radish, Spinach. (Slower-germinating 
and maturing) Beets, Chard, Carrots, 
Leek, Spinach (New Zealand), Parsley, 
Parsnips, Salisfy, Onions (Seed). 
Crop Suecession 
Plant radish seed very thin and follow 
at once with parsnip, carrot, parsley, 
asparagus, onion or leek right in the 
Same row. Pull the radish and use when 
it is large enough. 
Plant Beets, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mus- 
tard, Spinach, Onion Sets, Radishes, 
early Beans or Peas, between rows of 
late Cabbage, Melons, Squash or Toma- 
toes, 
Plant Radishes very early, followed by 
early Cabbage plants set every two feet 
in the row. After the cabbage is off, 
sow late turnips or Chinese Cabbage. 
Plant two rows of Pota- 
toes between each two Wa- 
termelon rows and dig po- 
tatoes after the Melons are 
gone. 
Follow early Peas and 
Beans with late Cabbage. 
Celery may follow early 
Peas, Beans, Lettuce, Radish or Spinach. 
Plant late turnips in vacant spaces 
about the garden. 
Building a Cold Frame 
HEAVY PIN 
HINGES : 
HOOK TO 
HOLD SASH 
UP WHEN 
NEEDED 
If you don’t want to go to the trouble ~ 
of making a hot bed or haven’t enough 
‘good manure on hand to build one, you 
can do very well with a cold frame. 
A cold frame is built same as you build 
Winter Storage 
Surplus garden vegetables can be 
stored in an unheated garage, storage 
house or shed for a month or so depend- 
ing on how low the temperatures fall. 
Store only those vegetables which are 
in good condition. Dig beets, potatoes, 
turnips, carrots and rutabagas as late as 
possible before the ground begins to 
freeze and cut the tops off. Do not clean 
the dirt from them, but place in boxes 
and pack in sand, loam and sawdust. 
The temperature should be between 35 
and 40 degrees. 
The vegetables can also be stored in a 
basement, in which the temperatures 
can be kept down and ventilation pro- 
vided, on racks, shelves, slat bins or 
boxes, raised off the floor. A concrete 
floor should be sprinkled every few days 
and a dirt floor kept somewhat damp, 
Pumpkins, squash and sweet potatoes 
should be stored at temperatures be- 
tween 55 and 65. = 
When storage is required for a longer 
period, an outdoor storage pit may be 
made by digging a pit the desired size 
and deep enough to stand in. The vege- 
tables may be stored in boxes, bins or | 
shelves. Lay heavy boards over the pit 
even with the surface and cover with a 
mound of earth. A ditch should be dug 
/ 
Which May Follow Others: 
3 ‘3 oo: ; 
Bug Dust 4 
Since gardening began, insects have © 
waged war on gardens. Today’s gar- 
dener has @ powerful weapon against 
bugs in the form of Henry Field’s Bu 
Dust. oe 
You really won't believe how well our — 
BUG DUST works until you see it work — 
yourself. Some folks call it a “Miracle — 
Dust. 
BUG DUST works three ways. It not 
only is a STOMACH POISON, but a 
CONTACT POISON and FUNGICIDE— ~ 
ALL IN ONE DUST. ~ a 
No need to buy three dusts—use our — 
“BUG DUST.” ia gtr 
Henry Field’s BUG DUST is safe. Does 
not harm even the most delicate plants 
when used as directed. Absolutely leaves” 
no poisonous residue. , 
Dust plants early before heavy infesta- 
tion appears. Remember, preventive 
measures are more effective than cures. 
Dust both top and bottom of leaves. Re- 
dust once a week until controlled and 
after any heavy rain, For cutworms, 
mix Bug Dust with soil at base of plants. 
Bug Dust can be used as a spray by di- 
luting 6 tablespoonfuls in gallon of wa- 
ter. Dust animals and poultry to rid 
them of fleas and lice, 
USE BUG DUST ON 
Beans Alyssum 
Cabbage Carnations 
Cauliflower Dahlas 
Cucumbers Gladiolus 
Egg Plant Gen. Foliage 
Lettuce Tris 
Muskmelons Peonies 
Peas Roses 
Benet as Sweet Peas 
Dotate Snapdragons 4 
Squash Violets < \ 
Tomato Currants } 
Watermelon Grapes oa 
Asters Gooseberries 
House Plants Strawberry — 
Asparagus All Flowers 
And all other small Plants. 
Starting Plants in the House 
A hot bed is the best place to start 
plants if you are willing to go to the 
trouble to make a good one. However, a 
box of good dirt placed in a south win- 
dow of the house where it will get as 
much sunshine as possible and in a room ~ 
where the temperature does not vary — 
much is good. ' 
If the soil you use does not already 
contain a large percent of humus, use © 
about 50 percent well rotted manure. 
This amount is only suggestive, as there 
is a wide difference in different samples — 
of dirt. What we mean by “Well rotted 
manure”’ is manure that eould almost be 
classed as dirt. Don’t use fresh manure. 
Cover all vegetable seeds about one- 
half inch deep. Cover flower seed very 
lightly (about 3 times the diameter of 
the seed). Make the rows 3 to 4 inches 
apart. Keep the surface soil moist until 
the plants are up or you may have trou- 
ble in getting a stand. Allow 6 to 8 
weeks to get plants large enough to set 
out. 
Hot Bed 
If you wish to make a hot bed, send 
for free instruction sheet. d 
the frame for a hot bed. It should be 
about eighteen inches high at the back 
side and twelve inches at the front. 
Place it in a sheltered sunshiny situation 
and bank around so that the wind will — 
not get in. Cover with glass or Glass 
Cloth. Bo 
Plant seed in a cold frame a week or 
so later than you would in a hot bed. 
You can grow all hardy vegetables, such 
as cabbage, cauliflower, beets, lettuce, © 
radish, onions, and kohlrabi. 4 
Beets, lettuce and onions transplant 
as easily as cabbage. And you can ad- 
vance radishes a couple of weeks by 
planting them in this cold frame. Of. 
course, the soil should be rich and 
mellow. 
of Vegetables | 
around the mound to lead surface water 
away. A door should be fitted to the en- 
trance, preferably two doors with an air 
ne between them to keep out the 
rost. 
When the quantity to be stored does 
not require a very large pit, vegetables 
may be laid in a box, which is lined and 
covered with straw, set in a small pit 
covered with earth. Or a barrel may be 
used, or a conical mound may be made, 
to cover vegetables piled up like a pyra- 
mid. = 
Do not close outdoor root cellars tightly 
until the temperature inside has dropped 
close to freezing, and do not cover earth | 
pits until the soil has cooled off thor- | 
oughly. 4 
Best Vegetables for Freezing 
SNAP BEANS—Stringless Green Pod, Wade and 
Toperop. fi 3 
SNAP BEANS, WAX POD—Pencil Pot 
Wax, Cherokee Wax. é a a piak 
LIMA BEANS—Green Seeded Baby Lima, Ford- 
hook 242. : 4 ¥ 
CORN—¥-8f, Giant Bantam Hybrid, Golden 
Cross Bantam, Hoosier Gold Hybrid, Hybrid 
Stowell’s Evergreen. i 
GREENS—Swiss Chard, Kale, Spinach. 
PEAS—tittle Marvel, Freezonian. “ 
a 
gle 4% 
