00 
2420 
out crowding or 
12. to 24 
enough to hold plants. 
dirt on back of trench. Sep- 
arate plants and spread roots 
and lower part of stems against 
sloping side of trench. Cover 
roots and half of tops with at 
Se Sit 
DIG HOL| 
LARGE ENOUGH 
TO RECEIVE 
PLANT WITHOUT 
BENDING ROOTS 
1 DIG HOLE 
Dig hole large enough to hold roots with- 
FILL HOLE AND TRAMP 
SOIL. THE LIGHTER THE SOIL 
THE HARDER THE TRAMP 
serlaste \ntnmge 
3 ACTUALLY PLANT STOCK 
ALWAYS KEEP ROOTS COVERED 
ee : 
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segtor ml 
coated 
REAK UP 
SUB-SOIL 
WHEN IT IS 
* VERY HARD 
bending and so stock can. be 
planted same depth as was in nursery row. 
| If soil is poor, add thin layer of fertilizer. 
Stir fertilizer into soil and cover with light 
layer of soil before planting stock. 
digging hole, be sure to keep roots of stock 
cool, moist and covered.) 
(When 
LEAVE LOOSE SOIL ON 
TOP OR COVER GROUND 
WITH MULCH 
Plant stock as soon as you receive it. Plant 
at same depth as it was in nursery row. 
roots in natural spreading position. 
hole with fine top soil, jogging tree. 
soil firmly by tramping to avoid air pockets. 
Slowly pour water in to fill hole. 
Fill with soil and tramp down. 
Set 
Half fill 
Pack 
Let settle. 
SN 
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SIS 
4. 
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2 TRIM BACK PLANTS 
With a sharp knife prune off any unusually 
long roots or roots that may be broken or 
dead-looking. (Pruning of the top can be 
done at this stage, but usually is done after 
stock is completely planted. Pruning of top 
consists of pruning off crossing and rubbing 
twigs and limbs, and shortening unusually 
long limbs.) 
FORM CUP-LIKE 
DEPRESSION IN SOIL 
MER NEBAVD Wns 
4 FORM DEPRESSION FOR WATER 
After soil has been firmly tramped, form a 
little cuplike depression in the soil around the 
stock to catch and hold moisture. Fill de- 
Pression with water and let soak in. (Don’t 
tramp down soil after you’ve filled depres- 
sion with water, as it will make top layer of 
soil hard and crusty.) Now your planting is 
finished! 
. IF YOU CAN'T PLANT AT ONCE, "HEEL-IN” THE STOCK 
Fruits, Trees, Roses, Shrubs, 
Deutzia—Gracilis. . . 
Flowering Crab 
Flowering Quince 
Golden Bell Forsythi 
Golden Elder 
Hydrangea 
Mock Orange (Syringa)... . 
Flowering Plum 
SplrearAWincsce- acsess 
Spirea Billardi 
Spirea Blue Mist. 
Spirea Prunifolia. 
Spirea Thunbergi 
Spirea Van Houttei. 
Sumac... wisiale ole 
Tamarix 
Weigela..........+ anes 
Hedges, ete., should be ‘“‘heeled- 
in” in dirt in a protected, well- 
drained, location. Dig a trench 
in. deep and wide 
Pile 
least 6 in. of moist soil. 
down. 
Strawberries and Perennials 
should be planted at once or 
kept moist in their packing: 
If weather is 
frost-proef 
stock in 
Leave stock 
keep moist. 
possible. 
Pack 
cold, store 
place. 
in packing and 
Plant as soon as 
SHRUB PLANTING CHART 
MATURE 
HEIGHT 
4-6 ft. 
5-7 ft. 
2-4 ft. 
1%4-2% ft. 
LOCATIONS 
DO WELL IN 
Sun 
Sun or Shade 
Sun 
Sun 
Sun 
Part Shade and Sun 
Sun or part Shade 
Sun 
Sun 
Full Sun 
No. side 
Shade or Sun 
Shade or Sun 
Part Shade or 
Full Sun 
Part Shade or 
Part Shade or 
Shade or Sun 
Sun 
Sun 
Sun 
Part Shade or 
Sun 
Shade or Sun 
Sun or Shade 
Sun or Shade 
Part Shade 
Part Shade or Sun 
Part Shade East or 
Part Shade or Sun 
BLOOMING 
Time & Color 
April—Pink 
Aug., Sept.—Many 
Red berries 
& foliage 
May, June—Pink 
All Summer— 
Various 
All Summer— 
Various 
May, June—White 
June—White 
May—Pink, White, 
Red 
April—Red 
April—Yellow 
Yellow foliage 
A.G.: Early summer 
—white 
P.G.: Late’summer 
Pink, Red Berries 
_April—Pink, Red, 
White 
April—Various 
PRUNING TIPS 
Light—after blooming 
Light—early spring 
Light—any time 
Light—after blooming 
Cut to ground each winter 
Light—after blooming 
Light—after blooming 
Light—after blooming 
Light—after blooming 
Light—after blooming 
Light—after blooming 
Fairly heavy—any time 
Heavy—late fallor early spring 
Light 
Light—unless for hedge—early 
spring 
Light—after blooming 
April—White Light—after blooming 
April—White Light—after blooming 
April—Rose None 
May, June—White | Light—early spring 
Waxy white berries 
in mid summer 
All summer—Pink 
Sun 
Sun 
Sun 
Light—early spring 
Can be cut to ground each 
spring. Cut off flowers as 
they dry up 
Light—early spring 
Early spring 
After blooming 
Light—after blooming 
Light—cut from ground after 
blooming 
June, July—Pink 
All summer—Blue 
Arpil, May—White 
April—White 
April, May—White 
Attractive red 
foliage in fall 
May, June, July— 
Pink 
Sun 
Any time needed 
Early spring. Every few years 
cut to ground if plant is 
spindly 
May—Pink or Red ! Light—after blooming 
*Light pruning means removing only crooked or very old woody stems when needed. 
**Heavy pruning means plants can be cut to ground each winter if low growth is desired. These plants bloom on new wood. 
i.) 
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BULBS & PERENNIALS 
~— NoOTICE—— 
RENMALS, LILIES, BULBS, ROOTS AND TUBERS 
MUST GE PLANTED IN WELL-2 O°QINED SOIL 3 
(i) crocus 
14 
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PROPER WAY TO SET 
AND PRUNE TREES 
x 
Fae 
PROPERLY 
PRUNED PRUNED 
TOP 
ROOTS HOLE 
CRAMPED LARGE 
PLANTED AND AND CUP-LIKE 
TOO NOT DEEP DEPRESSION TO 
ENOUGH 
DEEPLY HOLD MOISTURE 
Uy 
Zip <— PROPERLY 
hor oe ( SPREAD 
LNG OUT AND 
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LIKELY TO LIVE 
Fruit Trees 
Should be set as indicated in the “4 Easy 
Steps in Planting.’’ Set Apples 30 to 40 feet 
apart and Peach, Apricot, Cherries, Plum and 
Pear, 15 to 20 feet apart. Some folks prefer 
to plant Apples 40 feet apart and set smaller 
trees such as Peach, Plum and Cherry in as 
filler trees. Small fruits, asparagus, and 
rhubarb may be planted in the orchard to 
give you immediate revenue. 
PRUNE FRUIT TREES before planting as 
illustrated ip picture—both roots and tops. 
Cut just above a bud which faces out. When 
properly pruned, they should not have more 
than 3 to 4 branches, and these should be 
cut to not more than 4 or 5 buds. As tree 
grows, prune in early spring, remove crossed 
and crotched limbs. Trim apples to a central 
leader with limbs on different sides at differ- 
ent heights, peaches so they grow low (cut 
back leader and all branches very short), and 
don’t prune cherries or plums except to re- 
move broken wood or crossed branches. 
Shade Trees 
Plant the same as fruit trees. Don’t plant 
too deeply; this may kill the tree as it must 
breathe through its roots. Plant same depth 
as they were in nursery field. Tramp soil in 
firmly about the roots. Give plenty of space 
between trees. Large growers—Elms, Soft 
Maples, ete. 30 to 50 feet. Medium growers 
—Chinese Elm, American Linden, etc. 25 to 
40 feet. They may be set closer if you need 
to. At the time of planting, cut back all 
side branches at least one-half, but do not 
cut back the main stem. Remove entirely 
any branch that threatens to become a double 
leader or any branch that forms too sharp 
a crotch with the main stem and might be 
broken later by a snow load. Cut off bruised 
and broken roots. If any further pruning is 
necessary, prune in early spring to remove 
bad ecrotches and cross limbs. In all pruning 
be sure not to leave any stubs but cut the 
branch off flush with the trunk. 
Any shade trees over 6 feet tall should be 
staked for at least a year. Drive a good 
strong stake deeply into the ground beside 
the tree, and tie the tree loosely to the stake 
with several ties. If rope or wire is used, 
run the same through an old inner tube or 
piece of garden hose or wrap-in burlap or 
rags so not to cut into the trunk of the tree. 
Windbreaks 
CR altel 
OC 
OG 
Suggested varieties suitable for each row; 
any other good windbreak plants will do: 
Rows 1 and 2 
Chinese Elm, Caragana, Russian Olive, Wil- 
low, Mulberry—planted 4 ft. apart. 
Rows 3 and 4 
Carolina Poplar, Soft Maple, Elm, Ash— 
planted 6 ft. apart. 
Rows 5 and 6 
Cottonwood, Am. Elm, 
6 feet apart. 
Rows 7, 8, 9, and 10. 
Austrian Pine, Spruce, Cedar—planted 8 
to 10 ft. apart. 
Besides giving protection, the windbreak 
is a source of firewood, lumber, and posts, 
and a never ending satisfaction of having 
something green and cooling right at hand 
for both man and animal. 
Here’s a quick, easy way to plant wind- 
break trees. First take a walking plow, 
throw out a deep furrow along the row of 
trees to be planted. (Plow fast’ enough so 
as to throw dirt well out of furrow.) Second, 
put each individual tree against the straight 
edge of the furrow, then throw the loose 
dirt in over the roots. Pack firmly with the 
feet. CUT ALL SEEDLINGS OR TREES 
BACK TO..LESS THAN HALF THEIR 
HEIGHT AS SOON AS PLANTED (except 
Evergreens, which require no pruning). Use 
the cultivator plenty the first two summers. 
Plant either fall or spring with good re- 
ie House Plants 
Planting and cultural directions are in- 
eluded in shipment. 
C. Elm—planted 
enry. Field Seed & Nursery Co., “"MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, Iowa 
M00 FT =e h geen satu 
NURSERY PLANTING TIPS 
> dirt 
CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE > 
Vines 
Plant at least 2 or 2% ft. out from the 
house so you will have good drainage. Va- 
rieties that bloom during the spring months 
should not be pruned in the fall, except for 
the removal of dead wood. Varieties which 
produce blooms on new wood in summer and 
fall, should not be pruned until they have 
become well established. Then the vines may 
be cut back to the height of about 3 ft. to 
encourage vigorous growth. 
Climbing vines should have good soil and 
plenty of water. Cut. back when planted and 
lie or stake securely. Later train to solid 
trellis as motion is injurious to the plants. 
Vines for North and East Side: Clematis, 
Ivy, and Wisteria. 
Vines for South and West Side: Silver 
Lace, Scarlet Honeysuckle, Pink Flame, Ivy, 
Bittersweet, Trumpet. 
CLEMATIS—Clematis thrives best in rich 
garden loam. Sand or peat moss may be 
added to heavy soil to loosen it up. The soil 
should be well drained. It is best to mix 
some lime in with the soil when planting. 
Place the crown of the vine about 2 inches 
below the surface. Don’t cultivate as they 
like to be left aione. In the fall, any dead 
wood can be removed which is the only prun- 
ing needed. Don't prune Hybrid Clematis. 
Shrubs 
Plant as described in 
general instructions. Trim 
back within several 
inches of the ground after 
planting, to make room 
for bushy growth. (See 
Illustration.) 1 ft. of 
should be mounded 
up over each Fall-planted 
shrub and left until 
Spring. Set small va- 
rieties 1 to 2 ft, apart, 
medium grower, 1% to 3 
ft.; tall grower 3 to 6 ft. 
apart. 
Shrubs require little 
pruning. In no case prune 
(PRUNING UNE = 
square across the top as this spoils their 
natural habit of growth. Cut branches off 
at ground. This will force young growth. 
Prune early blooming shrubs like Spirea V. 
H. and Lilaes right after they bloom. Prune 
midseason and late blooming shrubs in late 
fall or early spring. 
If planting in beds, remove all sod and 
spade up space between plants. In planting 
around foundation, stay at least 2 ft. and 
with large growing shrubs, as much as 38 ft. 
to 4 ft. away. 
Miscellaneous Tips 
Planting or Transplanting—Fall or early 
spring are the times best suited for trans- 
planting. Practically anything can be trans- 
planted in those periods providing proper 
care is taken that the plants do not dry out, 
and that the roots are not too long exposed 
to sun or wind. In transplanting from one 
location to another, or from one home to 
another in case you 
are moving, it is 
safest to move as 
much dirt as possi- 
ble in a ball along 
with the root. This 
is particularly true 
of Evergreens and 
large trees with 
trunk more than 4 
inches in diameter. 
Always replant at 
the same depth that 
the plant was orig- 
inally growing. Al- 
ways tramp the dirt 
in well around the 
Be sure to tamp soil 
! firmly around roots 
roots so there are when planting trees, 
no airpockets. Al- shrubs. Soak ground 
ways leave a CUD- Well clear below roots, 
like depression 
around the plant so 
it may be well watered occasionally until 
it is well established and growing. And, a 
good safe rule is to prune back one-half of 
the top of most any plant that you move, 
with the exception of the Evergreen and the 
main trunks of shade trees. If necessary 
to store plants awhile in the winter before 
planting in a new location, take up lots of 
dirt with the roots and cover the ball of soil 
“with burlap, and place in a dark cool corner 
of your basement. Water occasionally except 
the strawberries, as they are better allowed 
to be quite dry. Be sure the hole you make 
at the new place is plenty big. 
Winter Mulch—A Winter Mulch is es- 
sential with all newly planted plants—no 
matter what kind they are. After the first 
winter except in extreme northern states, it 
is not absolutely necessary that it be applied 
except to strawberry beds. Strawberries 
should always be mulched. On fresh planted 
shrubs, trees, roses, peonies, oriental poppies, 
the best possible mulch is a good mound of 
dirt pulled over the plants just before freez- 
ing time. On roses, shrubs and trees, the 
mound should be at Jeast a foot high. It 
won’t do any harm if it is 18 inehes high. 
For Oriental Poppies and peonies it should be 
at least 6 to 9 inches. This is to keep the 
plants from heaving out of the ground by 
frost action. It is desirable to cover this 
mound with straw, hay or some sort of a 
litter 3 or 4 inches deep if you have the 
same to put on. It is not absolutely necessary 
that this be done, ex- 
cept that the litter 
keeps the soil mound 
from washing away in 
the winter thaws. In 
the spring after the 
ground thaws, pull 
these mounds of soil 
away and the plants 
will start to grow. 
On Perennials and 
strawberries and such 
When you water, soak Plants with a soft 
the ground down to crown, where a pile 
the roots. That is of dirt cannot be put 
on the plants without 
injury, cover after 
(continued on next page) 
4] 
better than sprinkling 
with a nozzle. 
