- 
NURSERY PLANTING TIPS—Continued from Previous Page 
the ground freezes with about 6 inches of 
Oat or Wheat straw or some other light 
mulch that will not pack and rot. Do not 
apply until after the ground freezes or the 
mice will get in and make their holes and 
eat your plants during the winter. Do not 
remove mulch until after the ground com- 
pletely thaws in the spring and then remove 
top of the mulch first and then gradually 
remove the remainder. 
Watering — Hoe or cultivate frequently, 
stirring the ground after rain or watering. 
In dry weather water thoroughly once a 
week. The best plan is to make a basin 
around the plant and fill it full of water 
several times until the ground is soaked 12 
inches or more deep. After the water has 
soaked aavay, fill up the basin with dry dirt. 
About Fall Planting 
Besides the fall bulbs, such as tulips, hya- 
cinths, narcissus and the like which must be 
fall-planted, almost all hardy nursery stock 
can be planted in the fall as well as in the 
spring. In fact, many plants do even BETTER 
fall planted than spring set. 
You see, by planting stock in October and 
November when the stock is dormant, you 
give the plant a chance to become established 
in its new location before growing time starts. 
The roots, below the frost line, START 
GROWTH AT ONCE, and for this reason, 
fall planted stock often is way ahead of 
spring planted siock the following summer. 
Do not expect most fall planted material to 
make top growth before winter because it 
won't. : 
Fall planting is just the same as spring 
planting except pruning should be done early 
the next spring, and a mound of dirt at least 
a foot high should be pulled up on top of 
any shrub, tree, roses, peonies, oriental 
poppies, lilies, and left there until spring. 
This is to keep the frost from heaving the 
freshly set plants out of the ground during 
the winter thaws. If convenient, cover this 
mound of dirt with a mulch of oat or rye 
straw or some other litter to keep the mound 
of dirt from being washed away in the pos- 
sible warm winter rains, 
All strawberries or perennials with a leafy 
crown over which dirt cannot be piled should 
have a mulch of 4 to 6 inches of rye or oat 
straw, or some other litter that will not pack 
and rot, put over them after the ground 
freezes. This should be taken off gradually 
in the spring after the ground thaws. 
ZLELIOLS 
BEFORE MODERATE 
PRUNING PRUNING 
—. 
\ PRUNE 
Sear Yi JUST ABOVE 
PRUNING A STRONG BUD 
Prune shrubs severely after planting. Fol- 
low Shrub Planting Chart for later pruning. 
Pruning Tips to Remember 
SHADE TREES—If smaller around than 
your wrist, you can trim them any time. 
If larger, trim only in the winter when 
the sap is not flowing, Trim in early 
spring to prevent bad crotches, crossed 
limbs. 
FRUIT TREES—Prune early in_ spring, 
cutting out bad crotches and limbs 
. that interfere with each other, Don’t 
eut off short spurs from main limb as 
this bears first fruit. 
GRAPES—Prune in February before 
growth starts in the spring. Cut off all 
old wood which has borne fruit. 
HYBRID TEA ROSES—Prune long shoots 
off before winter covering. Prune bal- 
ance of wood to 8 inches from _ the 
ground just before growth starts in the 
spring. 
SHRUBS—Prune early bloomers like 
Bridal Wreath, Lilacs, ete., right after 
they bloom. Later bloomers like Hy- 
drangeas can be pruned in the spring. 
HEDGES—Prune several times each sea- 
son whenever it is necessary to keep 
the hedge in the shape desired, An ever- 
green hedge should be pruued in late 
May or June. If you have a straggly 
hedge, cut it back to within few inches 
of ground, fertilize and it will grow 
nicely. Always prune top narrower than 
bottom, 
Planting Fall Bulbs 
Fall and early winter is the only time you 
can plant tulips, crocus, daffodils, narcissus, 
and the like. They spend the fall and winter 
making roots and then come up early in ‘the 
spring. 
, Set at the depth and distance apart shown 
in the diagram on page 41. You can either 
dig out a complete bed or simply a small 
hole for each bulb. Some people put a lit- 
tle sand in each_hole which is nice as it 
allows drainage. Don’t allow air spaces about 
the bulb and be sure to PACK THE EARTH 
DOWN FIRMLY. If you wish, you may 
put a little fertilizer BELOW each bulb for 
42 
the roots to feed on. Do not let the bulb 
touch it, 
It’s a good idea to muleh with lawn rak- 
ings or straw or rotted manure. After bloom- 
ing next spring, allow the tops to die down 
naturally and then either dig and store, or 
leave for another season of bloom. 
Plants for Shady Locations 
SHRUBS—Japanese Barberry, Snowball, 
Snowberry, Hydrangeas, Spirea V. H., 
Honeysuckle. 
PERENNIALS—Lily of the Valley, Vio- 
lets, Bleeding Heart, all wild-flowers, 
Bluebells, and all the Ferns. 
% 
ANNUALS — Nasturtiums, Snapdragons, 
Lupine, Sweet Williams, Pansies. 
Asparagus 
Set asparagus 15 in. apart in rows 3 ft. 
apart either spring or fall. A bed dug 18 in. 
deep with well rotted manure for the bot- 
tom six inches, and rich top soil for the next 
six inches is best. Set plants, spreading the 
roots well and with eye up. Cover with 3 
inches of soil and tramp well. Or simply 
plant in deep furrow. 
Gradually cultivate soil into trench as 
plants grow so ground is level. Salt is not 
injurious to Asparagus, and may be sprin- 
kled to cover the ground to keep weeds down. 
Dress in fall with manure. Do not cut much 
the first year or two after planting. 
You may cut until about the 1st of June. 
As soon as tops turn yellow in the fall, cut 
close to the ground, then fertilize and mulch 
for winter. 
Blackberries 
Set in good sized 
hole about 2 inches 
deeper than they were 
in the nursery_ row. 
Spread roots well and 
pack firmly. Trim 
back to. within few 
inches of the ground 
when planting. Set 4 
feet apart in rows 6 
feet apart for field 
cultivation. (1815 per 
A.) Closer for gar- 
dens. 
When new growth 
reaches 24”, pinch off 
tip to encourage 
branching. N e x t 
spring early, trim 
back to 10 in. Prune . 
right after picking ™~™ 
the fruit. Remove all 
old canes that have borne fruit and burn. 
Leave 3 to & branches on new canes. A 
permanent mulch may be kept on berry beds 
to conserve moisture and keep down weeds. 
pe out any sickly bush that appears and 
urn, 
\ Blueberries 
Get a start of blueberries; can't beat them. 
They're easy to grow except they need acid 
soil. So with every blueberry order shipped, 
we send enough aluminum sulphate to acidify 
the soil around the plants and insure proper 
growing conditions. Dig your hole extra big, 
mix in 2 tablespoonsful of the Al. -Sulphate 
and plant as usual. Maintain acidity by add- 
ing. 1 tablespoonful of Al. Sulphate each 
spring, summer and fall to soil. That's all 
that’s different than with other nursery stock. 
Plant 6 feet apart. They like lots of 
moisture and good drainage. Cultivate fre- 
quently only 2 inches deep as roots are 
shallow. Our peat moss helps hold moisture 
and keep sofl acid. 
Additional quantities of Aluminum Sul- 
phate can be secured at Henry Field’s. 
Boysenberry and Youngberry 
Set the plants 3 ft. apart in rows 4 ft. 
apart. Don’t crowd the roots. Pack the earth 
around solidly. After planting, mulch with 
a heavy application of well rotted barnyard 
manure, Plants can be left to trail on the 
ground the first season. In the fall, after 
the growth has stopped, prune back about 
one-half of all new growth, -and just before 
the ground freezes, cover with several inches 
of straw. 
Once the vines commence to bud, they 
should be fastened to a trellis, similar to a 
grape trellis. Build a three-wire trellis with 
the top wire about 5 ft. from the ground 
and the bottom wire not lower than 2 ft. 
from the ground, Weave the vines fan shaped 
on these wires. Don’t cultivate much, just 
enough to remove the weeds. It is best to 
remove any very small canes that are found, 
and shorten the longer ones at the time of 
putting the canes on the trellis wires in the 
spring. Old canes should be eut out and de- 
stroyed after the crop is harvested. 
Cannas 
_Plant late in spring in rich bed. Cover 
with 4 to 6” of fine soil pressed firmly. Or 
dig a deep bed and place manure and fine top 
soil 6 in. deep below the bulbs, Water in 
dry weather. Cannas like sun, Plant 18 in. 
apart. dig 
After tops are ee by frost, 
end store in cave or cellar where dry and 
cool, 
dust. 
Do not divide the roots until towards 
planting time. Cut them in pieces with two 
or three eyes or buds to each piece. 
Dahlias 
i Plant in well-drained sunny location, after 
soil is warm. Dig holes 6 in. deep 2 feet 
apart, and plant tuber on side with eye up 
and cover with 3 in. dirt pressed firmly. Fill 
hole gradually as plant grows. - 
When plant is above ground, remove all 
but one sprout and pinch that back when 
12 to 16 in. high to force lower growth. Dig 
in fall after first frost. Cut tops to roots 
and store upside down in cool dry cellar or 
eave. Divide in spring and be-sure to get 
one eye with each division. 
‘Cut back to 
You can cover with dry sand or saw-° 
Evergreens 
Evergreens are not particular about the 
soil, but they like lots of water when first 
planted. Water daily if necessary until they 
are well established. 
now and then, and give them a mulch over 
winter. It is not necessary to wrap or in any 
other way protect them, at this season. Do 
not prune except Junipers and Arborvitae 
which can be pruned to any shape desired. 
Gladiolus 
Plant 5 to 6 in. deep and 4 to 8 in. apart, 
in sunny location. Plant at intervals of two 
weeks for longer period of bloom. When 
tops die, dig bulbs, cut off tops and dirt and 
store in cool, dry place. . ' 
Gladiolus can be planted early in the 
spring, and as late as the first of July. 
Grapes 
Dig hole big as though plant-- 
ing an apple tree, and use the 
same method. Remove part of 
tops and roots as shown in pic- 
ture on “Top pruning line,” and 
“Root Pruning Line.” Leave 
two buds above surface. Set 6 
feet apart in rows 8 feet apart. 
First year only the main stem 
should be allowed to grow and 
one vine trained each way on 2 
trellis wires about 24” and 36” 
above ground respectively. 
PRUNING GRAPES: Prune 
only in the winter when vines 
are dormant and weather not too 
cold. Keep in mind that canes 
that have borne fruit one year 
will not bear again. So prune 
off all old canes (year old 
shoots) coming out from main 
"OROUND Lint 
Mature grapes before and after pruning. 
stem EXCEPT 4 black canes (shoots that 
started to grow the spring before) two of 
which you train in opposite directions on 
each wire. ‘hese should be cut back to 3 
or 4 buds each (6 to 8 in. long). From these 
buds (found at the joints) come new shoots 
that bear leaves and grapes the following 
summer. 4 of these New Shoots will be used 
the NEXT WINTER as above, etc. 
Hedging 
Dig trench 10. in. 
wide. Set plants along 
straight side of 
trench as shown in 
Tllustration J and a 
trifle lower than they 
were_in nursery row. 
1% their 
original height im- 
mediately after plant- 
ing to give bushy 
growth. When new 
growth starts, nip off 
the end of each 
growth to stimulate “ 
branching. Set privet and other upright va- 
rieties 9 to 12 in. apart; Barberry and other 
bushy shrubs 16 to 20”; tall shrubs for high 
hedges 2 to 4 feet apart. i 
HEDGE PRUNING—Hedge pruning should 
be done several times each season—before 
growth starts in the spring, in May and in 
July. An evergreen hedge should be clipped 
in late May or early June aft the new 
growth has started. If you have a weak, 
straggly hedge, cut it back to within a few 
inches of the ground, fertilize it well and it 
will grow owt nicely for you. Always prune 
top narrower than bottom so bottom will get 
sun, 
Hydrangeas 
They thrive best in a rich, moist soil, and 
flower freely either in a sunny or shady lo- 
eation. Severe pruning should be _ practiced, 
and the weak growth thinned to have good 
blooms, Blue Hydrangeas need some winter 
protection; they also need aluminum sulphate 
to keep flowers blue. 
Tris , 
Plant shallow with rhizomes just barely 
covered with dirt. Spread roots like fingers, 
Be sure to place Iris where they will get at 
least a half day’s sun and good drainage. Do 
not let them be crowded by other plants. It 
is necessary to dig, separate and replant your 
Iris clumps every three to five years. Trans- 
plant in August or September. If planted 
early enough will bloom next spring. 
Lilacs \ 
Plant several inches deeper than they were 
planted in the nursery_row, They like an 
early planting and a fairly sweet soil. Trim 
by cutting out old blooms. Don’t prune tops 
severely and prune only right after blooming. 
ay, the new French Hybrids for all colors in 
ilacs, 
a” ' 
Lilies 
Plant all Lilies on well drained soil. Do 
not use manure. Plant either fall or spring 
(except Madonna which is fall planted). If 
you plant in the fall, muleh lightly to pre- 
Give ‘them fertilizer | 
.to get several eyes on each piece. Cu 
. gested in the general planting directions early | 
vent freezing and thawing. Good idea fo put 
2 in. of sand below bulbs. Plant bulbs at 
pee: specified for each variety in the cat- 
og. & BOE ee 
The planting depth should be three times 
the diameter of the bulbs. Move lilies after 
they have been in one plaee for a few years 
as the bulbs become overcrowded. Plant — 
where there is plenty of sunshine. <7 
Peonies 
Plant in rich soil, thoroughly spaded. It 
is extremely important that the poe 
should be planted between 144 to 2 inches © 
below the ground level. Never plant them — 
deeper than this nor any shallower. This is 
the most important point in planting peonies, 
Plant either spring or fall. Peonies 
heavy feeders and should be fertilized we 
Spade in manure and bone meal or Sheepoli* 
zer way deep, below the roots. Water often. 
They are so easy to grow and so beautiful, 
plant lots of them. , % 
You may dig and divide your clumps 
peonies in the fall, though they probabi 
will not need it for several years. Be s 
any bad or rotted places. 
Peonies must f 
planted in full sun. tere 
Perennials 
Plant as soon as plants 
arrive, in good rich soil. 
Set.so top of clump is just 
under surface of soil about 
% in, If growth has “i, 
started set crown (where WA 
roots join tops) at the sur-_ ey, LINE. 
face. (See Illustration). Ue 
Plant bushy growing plants PERENNIAL JUST 
farther apart than lower PLANTED 
growing sorts. Mulch fall : 
planted perennials with straw and leaves 
(never leaves alone as they will choke the 
plants) to prevent alternate freezing and — 
thawing. See chart, bottom of page 41. 
Raspberries. 
Same as blackberries. Cover roots about 
3 to 5 in. deep depending on size plants you 
order. Plant 3 ft. apart in rows 6 ft. apart. 
Rhubarb 
. ‘Se 
Plant 3 feet apart in good garden soil so 
crown is 1 to 2 in. below surface of soil. 
Plant either spring or fall. a 
Give plenty of moisture, clean cultivation, 
and feed generously. No stalks should be 
pulled until the second year, and then only 
little. After that they may be pulled as long — 
as you can use Rhubarb. You may dig, d , 
and move in the fall or spring. 
cS) od 
Roses ene 
Plant in rich soil, well-drained, sunny lo- 
cation, with bud (where top joins brown — 
root) just at ground surface. Plant as sug- 
in spring, except dirt is mounded up to 5 to 6 © 
in. high above the plant and left about 10 
days until buds start when it should be re- 
moved. Set 18 in. apart. Climbers 6 ff. — 
Most of our roses are pruned ready for plant- 
ing, but if not, eut back to just above the 
mound of dirt you have piled up. (5-6 in.). 
LATER CARE: Prune back severely in 
early spring to within 5 or 6 inches of the 
ground to-force new growth. (Hybrid Per- 
petuals should be left 15 in. long. Climbers 
should have wood that bloomed eut out each 
summer.) Mulch well in winter with mound 
of dirt 1 ft. high and then a layer of leaves 
and straw. All roses need good cultivation. — 
Plant with this in mind. Watch out for 
suckers. Dainty Hybrid Teas are grafted onto 
vigorous roots and these sometimes throw 
up canes of their — 
own. These have 
7 leaves instead — 
of 5 and must 
be cut out. 
When setting 
out roses, cut 
the ends of all, 
roots with a 
very sharp 
knife. No roots 
should be left 
more than 12 | 
inches long. Re- 
ae ' move any in- 
jured portion and make sure the soil is 
pressed firmly around the roots leaving ;no 
air pockets. Dust your roses regularly every 
two weeks after the leaves first appear with 
Field’s Bug Dust. You will have neither bugs 
nor disease. Read about Rose Dust and Rose- 
tone on page 47. By 
Plant roses with the joint, 
or bud, just even with the 
ground, then pile soil 10” 
high about canes to prevent 
drying. 
Strawberries 
Pulverize ground thoroughly. Set plant — 
with crown just at the surface of the earth. 
DO NOT GET CROWN COVERED. (See 
illustration below.) - Be sure roots are spread 
out fan shaped and hang down full length 
without crowding, Press soil firmly and re- 
move dry or bruised leaves. Plant early as 
you can work’ the soil in spring. For field 
work set 24 in. apart in rows 3 ft. apart 
and in garden work about 24 in. apart each 
way. Mulch with 3 or 4 in. straw in fall. 
This mulch ean be left on the following sea- 
son to retain moisture and keep down weeds. 
Strawberry plants will not cross fertilize, so 
you can plant the varieties together if you 
choose. If bed is too crowded, thin out old 
plants, Some people let runners fill the rows 
and dig the old rows every two years. MM 
Mo 
to 
Grub worms sometimes bother strawber 
planted in sod or new soil so it is best. 
prepare the bed in the fall if you are plant- 
ing them in new soil. Everbearing varieties 
ee 
AE 
y 
Too Shallow 
Too Deep 
‘ 
_ will produce the first season—the others not 
until the following. ye 
Henry Field Seed & Nursery Co., “MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, Towa 
, ¥ E | 
7) x 
