16 NORTH SHORE BREEZE and Reminder 
“Ruffles, ruffles, everywhere 
And not a ruff to spare!” 
HIS is the cry of the milliner, the 
modiste, and (hélas!) the shopper 
for the beautiful, the artistic, the 
quaint and the fashionable, and has 
been ever since about last November 
when the designers were thinking up 
Spring styles for the women who 
were even then buying their winter 
gowns and hats from models created 
by these same men and women a 
whole season before. Bewildering, 
is it not? There has come a decided 
reaction from the bizarre and sensu- 
ous Eastern types of materials and 
costumes which the last season or 
two have fostered, and we are now 
copying the most graceful, demure 
and beautiful frocks. of about a cen- 
tury ago. Purest 1830 style is aided 
and abetted by whatever the maker 
chooses to borrow from any other 
period to make a 1916 frock more 
charming than all the others consid- 
ered together. The keynote of them 
all is femininity, unsophisticated and 
alluring; and the expression of this 
is, in general, short skirts, quite’ full 
and especially so at the hips, short, 
rather tight waists and_ trimmed 
sleeves—and_ ruffles. Soulie uses 
ruffles on a morning costume; Doeuil- 
let finds a place for them on an after- 
noon frock; Doucett finishes the high 
collar and airy sleeves of a delightful 
summer blouse with them; Premet 
has made an evening gown of nothing 
much except them; and Gage has 
passed up a brim on at least one hat 
for the sake of them. Truly the im- 
portance of ruffles cannot be over- 
estimated this season. 
Of course, there are ruffles and 
there --arese rules. =) nsti, iG = ewe 
ruffle is not a raison d'etre this year. 
It must be a particular kind of a 
ruffle to be used in a particular kind 
of a way. For.instance, on a morn- 
ing frock of dotted foulard are eight 
ing combination. 
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JUDY O’GRADY’S PAGE 
Fashion and Household Suggestions 
The waist- 
ruffles to form the skirt. 
line is marked only by two “puckering 
strings,’ as our grandmothers would 
have said, had this frock been made 
in their day (and it might well have 
been), and the yoke and sleeves are 
in one. Of quite a different type are 
nine little. ruffles with headings that 
go far toward making a pink batiste 
frock one of the daintiest and young- 
est of the season. The bodice of this 
frock is quite, quite fitted with num- 
erous seams in true 1870 fashion and 
around the low neck and short sleeves 
are ruffles of white with black ribbon 
run through beading. A quaint gown 
surely, and desirable for the school- 
girl or her next sister, the debutante. 
“A Dream of Fair Ruffles.” 
HINK not that this is all that there 
is to the tale of ruffles, for some 
there are that work upward and 
downward on one and the same skirt. 
One dress of checked taffeta had a 
modest little blouse, finished with a 
narrow frill of lace at the throat, a 
white organdie shoulder cape and a 
skirt that might. have been called, al- 
though it wasn’t, “A Dream of Fair 
Ruffles.” It had a seven inch, gath- 
ered yoke to which was attached with 
an inch heading, the ruffles of the 
skirt proper—so to speak. There 
were two wide ruffles, one about nine 
inches deep and the other twelve, and 
each had its own plaited, three-inch 
frill. Blue and black were the checks 
of the dress, black was the ribbon 
velvet sash that tied in front and 
black were the bands of velvet ribbon 
that marked the boundary line be- 
tween plain and plaited ruffle. 
Even the strictest tailleur may have 
its ruffles, for if these are denied it, 
what satisfaction is in being? One 
such frock of striped silk had a bodice 
as plain as plain could be, since its 
only trimming was an unembroidered, 
unhemstitched collar of organdie. The 
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sleeves made up a little, however, for 
the severity of the blouse, itself, for 
they indulged in puffs at the snould- 
ers at the very beginning of their 
downward career. The next step was 
marked by the pert little ruffles that 
finished these puffs; and the final sur- 
render to the jure of the fashion 
came when the skirt, which started 
out to be a sober thing, changed its 
mind at no very great distance from 
the waistline and became a series of 
wildly flaring ruffles with the stripes 
running around and around instead 
of up and down. 
And lest you should think this 
popularity of ruffles a bubble soon to 
burst, a surface upheaval, as it were, 
allow me to tell you that it*goes deep- 
er than you think, for milady’s petti- 
coats and slips are ruffled, ruffled 
from their slender waists down to 
their wide hems. A petticoat of pink 
crepe de chine has many tiny ruffles 
edged with narrow lace, each one a 
little prettier and a little fuller than 
the last. 
And so it goes—they seem to be 
everywhere. Ruffles of lace falling 
shyly from top of crown to outer- 
most brim of hats, ruffles of old-time 
elbow sleeves setting off the beauty of 
woman’s arms, ruffles for the baby’s 
skirts just like mother’s, and long 
ruffles and short ruffles making whole 
dresses even to collars and sleeves! 
One might go on forever telling their 
story and never making it a twice- 
told tale. 
What Judy O'Grady 
Suggests for Spring. 
§PRING has come with all its lan- 
gour and yet there are critical 
hungry mouths to feed. For the 
children, particularly, this season is 
a trving one. Why not try this year 
to give them interesting, beneficial 
things to eat that will bring about the 
same good results to be expected fron: 
the time-honored “spring tonic.” For 
the older members of the family, too, 
dishes that are more than ordinarily 
tempting and refreshing seem to be in 
soime way necessary at this time of 
the year. Fortunately, nature has 
helped us to meet this demand, for 
she offers us her choicest viands now. 
Asparagus is not yet forgotten, spring 
trout is here with all its possibilities, 
salads crowd upon us thick and fast, 
and strawberries, red, fat and sweet, 
are waiting to tempt us with their 
fragrant delicacy. 
April 21,1916, 
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