Kingsville Nurseries _ Kingsville, Maryland 
1 SS SSS ST ES OE SE TT TS a IT 
While all the deciduous Hollies are perfectly hardy and 
can be grown fairly far north, you will note that we have 
called attention to several varieties and species of the 
evergreen Hollies which must have protection in areas 
where the winters are cold; also, some that can be safely 
grown only in warm areas. 
The English Hollies, those of the Aquifolium group, can 
be grown in fairly cold areas once they are established. 
When small they should have protection during the winters 
until they have gained some size, then they seem to pick 
up sturdiness, enabling them to withstand much cold. In 
order to help them gain the sturdiness they need, soil 
should be prepared for planting them in, and this should 
be a well-rotted compost of oak leaves. They desire to be 
fed, and old rotted cow manure is hard to beat. It helps 
them to develop large foliage, a deeper green, or brighter 
color, growth becomes stronger, and fruit sets heavier. It 
is always well to have a male plant of the species nearby, 
because then the pollen can be carried quickly by bees, 
from the male to the female flowers, and fruiting becomes 
abundant. 
Given the attention they need, they pay well with de- 
velopment of fine specimen trees. 
CULTURAL HINTS ON RHODODENDRONS 
SOIL: Rhododendrons require an acid soil that is well 
drained. A generous application of peat of well- 
decayed leaves scattered on the bed before spading 
will provide a friable compost for the hairlike roots 
and also assist in keeping the soil acid. 
PLANTING: Rhododendrons are essentially surface root- 
ers; therefore, plant them so that the top of the 
root ball is barely one inch below the soil level. 
Dig a hole several inches in excess of the ball’s 
depth and width, fill in around the ball with equal 
parts of peat and loam, tamp with a shovel handle 
to prevent undue settling and water thoroughly. In 
a heavy clay, we advise that the soil be removed to 
at least twice the diameter of the ball’s width and 
replaced with a silty loam. 
MULCHING: After planting, mulch with two or three 
inches of peat or decayed leaves. It protects the 
roots from drying out, it helps conserve moisture 
during the summer heat, and it ultimately becomes 
a ponuce of food available to the surface-feeding 
roots. 
WATERING: During warm summer days the plants appre- 
ciate overhead sprinkling night and morning to 
reduce the evaporation rate on leaf surfaces. They 
imbibe water in quantity during the growing sea- 
son, but overwatering is disastrous if the soil has 
been insufficiently lightened and water accumulates 
about the root system. The question of adequate 
drainage cannot be too strongly emphasized. A 
minimum of water is required during the dormant 
period which occurs in late fall. 
SHELTER: Partial shade and protection from cutting 
winds is essential. Dense overhead shade is not to 
be recommended because a certain amount of sun- 
light is necessary to ripen the wood in order that 
flower buds may be formed and also to prevent the 
plant from becoming leggy and drawn. 
AFTER FLOWERING: Remove all faded blooms from the 
plants to prevent the formation of seed pods. This 
will conserve the plant’s strength and help promote 
sturdy new growth. 
“ATTENTION — OF INTEREST” 
Copies of The Glenn Dale Azaleas, by B. Y. Mor- 
rison, Agriculture Monograph No. 20, United States 
Department of Agriculture, can be secured from The 
Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government 
Printing Office, Washington 25, D.C. Price, 40 cents. 
This Monograph is the finest data ever written of 
azaleas and should be secured by everyone interested 
in azaleas. 
