Krider’s Ten Commandments On Rose Growing 
Ist, Location. Rose bed should be in a sunny location and 
the soil should be of good garden grade and well drained. 
Fertilizer or well rotted manure should be thoroughly worked 
into the soil as the bed is spaded. 
2nd, Care Before Planting. Unpack and plant Roses as 
soon as received from the nursery if at all possible. If you 
cannot plant at once, unwrap the plants and heel them in 
the ground until ready to set in their permanent places. 
3d, Planting. In planting, set the plants with the bud, or 
joint, just above the roots, about 1 Y2 incnes below the surface 
of the soil. Have holes large enough to avoid crowding of the 
roots and be sure soil used for filling in is finely pulverized. 
Tramp soil firmly a couple of times as the hole is filled and 
leave a slight depression around each plant to retain water. 
Allow 18 to 24 inches between plants when figuring the num- 
ber of plants needed for a bed. 
4th, Care After Planting. If some plants appear dead and 
refuse to leaf out within a reasonable length of time after 
planting, try covering them with a piece of wet burlap. 
Soak the burlap with water two or three times daily and 
leave over the plant 48 hours. This will make most of them 
start leafing very soon. Some varieties seem to be slower than 
others in starting and we find the the above method will 
sometimes literally bring out plants that appear to be brown 
and entirely dead. Try it, and you will be amazed at the 
results. 
5th, Pruning. As soon as planting is completed see that 
all plants and the soil around them is thoroughly soaked with 
water. Cut back all canes to a length of 4 or 5 inches at 
planting time. This is very important as the root system of 
a newly transplanted Rose bush will not be able to leaf 
the canes to their entire length and many times plants will 
simply die in trying to do so. Each succeeding spring all canes 
should be cut back to the 4- or 5-inch height as stated above. 
This causes strong new growth and abundant bloom to 
develop. 
6th, Fertilizing. Keep the Rose planting well watered at 
all times when there is no natural rainfall. A reasonable ap- 
plication of fertilizer applied twice during the summer 
months, with an interval of at least 30 days between appli- 
cations, will induce added growth and extra quality in blooms. 
7th, Cultivation. Frequent cultivation after planting will 
maintain a dust mulch on top of the soil which will conserve 
moisture and continue growth. Rather shallow hoeing gives 
best results and keeps the beds free from weeds. Keep soil 
loose this way until about Aug. 1, after which it is well to 
allow the stock to harden and mature for wintering. 
8th, Spraying. For leaf spot and aphis apply Krider’s Multi- 
Purpose Spray or Dust. Apply every two weeks or as often 
as needed. For slugs or leaf eating worms apply arsenate of 
lead. 
Remedies for Chewing Insects. Leaf-eating insects such as 
beetles, weevils, grubs, worms, etc., are controlled by poison 
applied to the leaf. Arsenate of lead is most commonly used. 
Rotenone or pyrethrum should be used on vegetables. DDT 
is effective on some things, for instance, leaf-miners, chinch 
bugs in lawns, codling moths on fruits. 
Combinations of fungicide and insecticide chemicals are 
time savers for the small garden. These materials come under 
various trade labels. Consult us and we will be glad to offer 
suggestions. ‘ 
9th, Watering. Don’t sprinkle beds—wet them thoroughly. 
If a hose is used, remove the nozzle and let the water soak 
into the ground until it is saturated for several days after 
good drenching like this. Water in the evening or early morn- 
ing if possible. 
10th, Preparation of Soil. Any soil that will grow good 
Potatoes or garden plants will grow good Roses. It is not 
necessary that the Rose bed be entirely of clay soil. Good, 
thoroughly enriched gravel soil, or loam soil, will grow as 
good Roses as clay. The only time it is desirable to add 
some clay is if the soil of the Rose bed is pure sand. 
2143 HARDY MULTIFLORA ROSE PLANTS 
For Dense, Stock-Preof Living Flowering Fences, 
also Farm Fences 
Most of you have no doubt read the articles appear- 
ing in various magazines recommending the Multiflora 
Roses for use on farms and suburban property. This is 
the type of Wild Rose understock onto which Hybrid 
Tea Roses are budded. It grows prolifically and is hardy 
in the most extreme situations. Seems to withstand cold 
and drought and thrive in poor soil. It is the answer to 
your search for something to make a living fence which 
will, when matured, be practically stock or trespasser 
proof. The branches grow spreading and tightly massed. 
Grows rapidly and quickly forms a dense fence or hedge. 
May be trimmed if desired. Plant 12 inches apart for 
a dense, tight fence or hedge; 18 to 24 inches apart 
for a property line fence or looser hedge. 
MULTIFLORA PRICES 
Well Rooted, 18-24 in. Sturdy Plants, 10 for $2.00; 
25 for $4.00; 50 for $7.00; 100 for $10.00, postpaid. 
(Not Less Than 10 Plants Sold.) 
Description for 3 of 1954's Finest New Roses Iilustrated on Front Cover 
2197 MOJAVE 
AARS WINNER 1954. (Patent Pending) 
. Named for California’s famous desert, the 
finest orange colored Rose yet introduced. The 
outstanding feature of Mojave.is the amazing 
number of long budded stems it produces and is 
so vigorous, hardy and free blooming. Certain 
to please and satisfy every Rose buyer. 2-yr., 
No. 1 plants, each $2.75; 3 for $7.20. 
ALL OF THE ABOVE SUPPLIED 
ity flowers. 
2185 HELEN TRAUBEL 
(U. S. Plant Patent No. 
Another new introduction which was 
the AARS Winner in 
shadings of rich coppery pink in buds for 
and blooms. Excellent grower with fine 
habits. Prolific producer of finest qual- 
$2.50 each; 3 for $6.60. $6.60. 
IN 2-YEAR, No 1, 
2303 PRES. EISENHOWER 
(U. S. Plant Patent No. 1217) 
New and brilliant! Large, double 
blooms of brightest red open from 
beautiful long buds. One of the best 
cutting as stems are long and 
flowers are freely produced. Hardy, 
sturdy, vigorous. $2.50 each; 3 for 
1028) 
1952. Lovely 
FIELD-GROWN, BUDDED PLANTS—NONE FINER 
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