HOW TO PLANT BULBS 
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IT’S EASY TO GROW BULBS THIS WAY! 
The simple planting chart above shows avera 
ge planting depths and spacing for hardy bulbs. In 
cases when you have a light, friable soil, Tulip bulbs may be planted deeper, so that they will give more 
years of bloom before they need to be divided. 
Exceptions to the depths shown in the chart should be made in the case of Lilium candidum, which 
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unlike other Lilies, should be planted only 2 to 3 inches deep. 
After blooming, bulbs should be left undisturbed until the foliage has turned yellow. It is not necessary 
to dig bulbs up after blooming. 
A good application of coarse bonemeal is beneficial when applied to soil before planting in the fall. 
Sacco Plant Food (4-12-4), when applied in the spring after bulbs have grown 2 to 3 inches, will encourage 
a stronger stem and larger, brighter flower. 
PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS 
AMARYLLIS 
There are very few bulbs that will give more satisfaction when 
grown indoors than the beautiful Amaryllis. This gorgeous plant is 
very easily grown, and will bloom in six to seven weeks after potting. 
Use a 5 or 6-inch earthen flower pot, depending on the size of the bulb. 
Use a mixture of good sandy loam with about a heaping teaspoonful 
of bonemeal or sheep manure, and mix well. Plant bulb about two- 
thirds its length in the soil, leaving the neck or top of bulb extending 
above the surface. 
Water very sparingly until the flower bud or buds appear, and 
then as they grow taller add a little more water each time. Do not 
let it get dry. 
Place pot in a good light until flower buds are well above the bulb, 
then place in a sunny window; do not feed plant until after it has 
bloomed, as the bonemeal or sheep manure will suffice up to that 
time. 
After the blooms have died away, cut off flower stems, and by that 
time the foliage will have started to grow. Keep this foliage growing 
by watering well every two or three days, and feed plant once a month 
with some good well-balanced fertilizer (we recommend Sacco Plant 
Food). This plant food is excellent for all kinds of flowers both in- 
doors and out; use one level teaspoonful to a 5 or 6-inch pot. Loosen 
the soil slightly in the pot; put fertilizer evenly around the pot and 
water in. 
When warm weather arrives, about May 10, place pot in the garden 
and sink in ground to top of pot; in dry weather water well and feed 
once a month. Keep plant growing all summer, until about October. 
Then bring inside and place it in the basement on its side. When the 
foliage dies, cut it off at top of bulb; do not take bulb out of pot, but 
place pot in a dark corner of basement and then forget it. : 
About the end of January see if the bulb has made any sign of 
pocrene: If so, bring pot to the light, water lightly and proceed as 
efore. 
DAFFODIL & NARCISSUS 
OUTDOOR CULTURE 
Daffodils thrive in any good garden soil, preferably deep well- 
drained loam. Deep preparation of the soil is necessary, and; old 
rotted manure or compost may be worked in 16 or 18 inches below 
the surface, so as not to come in direct contact with the bulbs. FRESH 
MANURE SHOULD NEVER BE USED. A liberal amount of 
raw bonemeal should also be worked in with the rotted manure 
and compost. 
In medium soils, cover the bulbs about twice their depth, and a 
little deeper in lighter soils. The average for most sorts is 3 to 4 
inches from the top of the bulb. Set bulbs at a uniform depth; other- 
wise they may flower irregularly. 
POT CULTURE 
Daffodils should be potted in September or October in good loamy 
soil, adding a little sand or Ieafmold and a small amount of bonemeal 
(about 2 pounds to the bushel of soil). 
The old pots must be washed thoroughly and allowed to dry before 
using. New pots should be soaked. Provide drainage by placing 
pieces of charcoal or fragments of pots over the drainage hole. A 
little ground peat in the bottom regulates drainage, retaining moisture. 
After ten or twelve weeks they may be taken indoors for flowering. 
Plant the earliest varieties first, thus extending the flowering season. 
Do not bring them into a warm temperature—50 to 60 degrees is 
best at first. Do not give any bottom heat. Later, when the flower 
buds are well advanced, the temperature may be increased to not 
more than 65 degrees. 
When the pots are first brought to the light, the tender shoots 
may be covered for a day or two with an inverted flower pot to pre- 
vent injury from light or draft. A little weak liquid manure once a 
week, until buds burst, will hasten the flowers after growth has 
started. 
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Baltimore Pike, Lima, Penna. 
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