GLADIOLUS CLASSIFICATION 
In our alphabetical listing of varieties, the three-digit number following variety 
name, originator’s name, and date of introduction refers to size and color classifi- 
cation. Taking, for example, the variety REGINA (Palmer °53) 520 (EM), the num- 
ber 520 denotes that Regina is of giant size (5), and that its color is light orange (20), 
as explained in the table below. The notation (EM) informs us that it is an early- 
midseason bloomer. (Abbreviations for approximate blooming times are VE for 
very early; E, early; EM, early-midseason; M, midseason; ML, late-midseason, and 
L, late.) The official N.A.G.C. Classification is as follows: 
SIZE CLASSES: Miniature (100 series), florets smaller than 214 inches. 
Small (200 series), florets 242 to 3% inches. 
Medium (300 series), florets 3°4 to 43% inches. 
Large (400 series), florets 44% to 5% inches. 
Giant (500 series), florets 54% inches and larger. 
COLOR CLASSES: 
00—White 32—Deep Salmon 62—Medium Rose 
06—Cream 36—Scarlet 64—Deep Rose 
10—Light Yellow 40—Light Pink 66—Light Lavender 
12—Deep Yellow 42—Medium Pink 68—Deep Lavender 
16—Buft 44—Deep Pink 70—Purple 
20—Light Orange 50—Light Red 76—Light Blue-Violet 
22—Deep Orange 592—Deep Red 7é—Dark Blue-Violet 
24—Red-Orange 04—Black Red 80-86—Smoky Shades 
30—Light Salmon 60—Light Rose 90—Any Other Color 
An odd number as the last digit denotes a conspicuous marking. Thus White 
Cloud (500) is a white without markings, while Queen Anne (401) is a blotched 
white. Columbia (407) also has prominent markings, but on the edges of the petals 
rather than in the throat. 
GLAD GROWING HINTS 
PLANTING: Plant only clean healthy bulbs of good varieties. Do not fertilize 
heavily for glads; a little balanced fertilizer in the trench is all right if well mixed 
with the soil before planting. Plant in April, May, or early June in most localities; 
earlier in the southern states. Large and medium bulbs should be planted from 
3 to 5 inches deep, and at least that far apart in the row. Plant small bulbs about 
2 inches deep; bulblets only about an inch deep. We advise soaking all bulbs, just 
before planting, in a Lysol solution, 1 tablespoon Lysol to 1 gallon water. Soak 
for 3 or 4 hours and plant them the same day. The Lysol solution will not only 
kill any possible thrips on the bulbs, but it is also an effective fungicide to help 
keep the bulbs healthy. 
CULTIVATING AND WATERING: Cultivate only enough to keep down weeds, 
or after rain or irrigation. Glads can use lots of moisture if drainage is good. In 
the absence of rain, a good soaking once or twice a week from the time the plants 
are 8 or 10 inches high until they bloom will work wonders. If impossible to irri- 
gate, a mulch of a few inches of straw or other loose material will help hold 
moisture. 
DIGGING AND STORAGE: About 5 or 6 weeks after they have bloomed, the 
bulbs will be ready to dig. Cut off the stems at once close to the bulbs. Keep the 
bulbs in a warm dry place with good air circulation for a few weeks, after which 
the old bulb and roots can be easily pulled off the bottom. Store the bulbs for 
the winter in a fairly cool dry place; a temperature of 40 to 55 degrees is ideal. 
Do not pile bulbs deeply; spread them out so air can circulate among them. 
THRIPS: This very small insect can cause a lot of damage to gladiolus flowers 
if not held in check. If glads fail to open up properly, or appear “blasted” or 
disfigured with white marks, thrips are usually to blame. Thrips are found on 
various kinds of plants and weeds, so spraying or dusting is essential during the 
growing season, every 10 days or so from the time the plants are a few inches 
high until they bloom. Use 5% or 10% DDT for dusting; 50% wettable DDT for 
spraying. Thrips are really easy to control, but better be safe than sorry! 
