and often result in stunting of the plants. They are easily controlled with DDT. The 
Tarter Emetic and brown sugar spray, previously recommended, is still considered an 
adequate spray material. 
Considerable success in keeping down the ravages of pests has been obtained by 
some growers by frequent, over-head watering, during the hottest part of the day. The 
water is turned on for a couple of hours every two or three days. This method is more 
practical on light, well drained soils than on the heavier soils which may become 
saturated to the detriment of the plant. 
DISEASES rob the plants of vitality, and in the case of some diseases, eventually 
destroy the plants. Control methods require destruction of all infected plants as the 
symptoms become apparent. Control of insects prevent spread. 
MILDEW, common in the fall, is well-known. Control by dusting the under side of 
lower leaves with dusting sulphur, about Sept. Ist. One application will suffice for the 
season. 
After the frost has destroyed the plants in the fall cut the stalk off at the ground. 
An ordinary saw is fine for this. If possible leave the clump in the ground for a week 
or ten days before digging. A long tined fork is best for digging the clumps. Be 
careful not to break or even strain the necks of the tubers. One person, with a fork, on 
each side of the clump to be dug can lift the clump out with less damage. Do not 
leave the clumps exposed to the sun or wind for more than a few minutes. If the 
clumps are too moist to store at once dry them off a bit in the shade or basement. 
Cut the stalk off to within a couple of inches of the crown. This largely helps to 
prevent stem rot later. 
Winter storage of clumps offers a problem for which it is difficult to make specific 
recommendations. No method is universally satisfactory. It is often necessary to try 
several methods before hitting upon one which fits your particular conditions. For 
that reason we will outline a few of the ones which have proven to be among the most 
successful. 
(1) Most primitive, but very good, is the digging of the clump with as much 
soil adhering as possible. The clump in the soil is stored in a cool part of the base- 
ment or fruit cellar, usually with some additional cover. If roots start to shrivel, a 
little water may be added to the soil. 
(2) Clumps are placed right side up in a single layer on the floor, or specially 
made frames, and soil filled in around them leaving the crown and stalk exposed. 
Enough water is added from time to time to keep the soil moist enough for growth. 
(3) Clumps may be cleaned by washing and packed in boxes or barrels with 
some packing medium to fill in the spaces between the roots. Such materials as 
sand, ashes, peat moss, shavings, sawdust, leaves and like materials have been used 
for this purpose for many years. However, since the recent development of ex- 
panded mica, sold under such trade names as Terralite, Agrilite, Vermiculite etc., it has 
been found that this material is far superior to any of the others. It is sterile and 
its properties for absorbing and holding excess moisture tends to maintain a nearly 
ideal condition around the roots. We are recommending this as a starting method 
for beginners. 
(4) If large quantities of clumps are being stored, they may be packed tightly 
together in barrels or boxes without being washed and the container tightly covered 
with several layers of newspapers. No packing medium is used in this case, the 
close packing of the clumps tending to prevent excessive evaporation. 
There are two schools of thought in regard to proper preparation of the clumps 
prior to packing away. One favors a thorough drying of the clumps before they 
are put away. The other prefers packing the clumps immediately after digging 
unless they are extremely wet. We believe in the latter method, which has been 
successful for us, because it more nearly simulates conditions of the wild state 
of the dahlia plant, where it remains in the ground all year around. Method No. 2 
above probably comes closest to the native state of wintering, and were it not for 
the space needed for it, and "housing" of so much soil, it would be nearest ideal. 
7\ 
