46 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Jaw., 1902. 
difficulty is to get the rod long enough to reach over the wide spaces in our new 
methods of planting, and after much thought and experimenting I have come 
to the conclusion that the only reliable way is to prune one of the arms or 
branches of the vine you intend to get the shoot from to that one only, so as to 
take all the strength from that part of the vine, then have a stake from 8 feet to 
4 feet out of the ground, either of mallee or some wood that will last for three 
years, and drive it in where you want the new vine to be; then have a light 
wattle rod about 10 feet long, fasten the large end to the base of the cane you 
have left, and tie it to the rod at intervals, and cut out all the buds but the two 
end ones, or rub them off after they have shot out. In the stake near the top 
bore a small hole, and puta piece of No. 14 wire about a foot long through 
the stake, bend down one end to keep it from slipping back, and form a hook 
with the other end to receive the wattle rod. 
Wire SUgparx ror r 
Gao ow Torae, Post | = 
In most cases it will be found that the rod will have an inclination upward 
from the vine to the stake,.and so much the better if it has, as the new shoots 
will grow much stronger than if laid on the ground, and be less liable to be 
injured by the wind. As soon as the new shoots have grown, say, a foot, they 
should be tied, and where two have grown, one of them, the best of course, only 
should be left, and no fruit should be allowed to grow either on the new shoots 
or on any part of that arm of the vine, the object being to get as much growth 
as possible in one year. The vineyard should be gone over at least once a fort- 
night while the vines are growing to tie the young shoots to the rod. If these 
things are properly attended to, it will in many cases be possible to get a rod 
Yong enough to lay down in one year, and the rods will not be in the way in 
eross cultivation of the land, as they can be lifted out of the way for that pur- 
pose, and put back again afterwards. 
Tn layering the rods, when long enough they should be bent down at a sharp 
angle from the vine to a depth of 8 inches or 9 inches below the surface, and 
brought straight up at the stake, so that the plough or scarifier will not run 
foul of them in working the vineyard. 
If the shoot cannot be got long enough in one year, it should be pruned to 
the full length and tied securely to the wattle rod, and all buds suppressed, 
except the two at the extreme end. It is always best to leave two, in case of 
ene being blown or knocked out, and allowed to grow another year, when in 
almost every case it should be long enongh. It is best not to sever the layers 
from the parent vine for some years, until one is quite sure that it derives its 
strength from its own roots, and not from the parent vine. Of course, in 
trellised vines no stakes or rods are required, as shoots are carried along the 
wire, and! they should be carefully tied and not allowed to hear any fruit, as 
that will greatly prevent the growth of the shoot, and the object should be to 
get the layer-put down as soon as possible, when it will in two years become a 
earing, vine.. 
i.” 
