4 NOR TH SHORE BREEZE and Reminder 
stitchers and makers, done under the 
vision of the employers. 
‘hen came invention after invention, all tending to 
make the shoes more perfect and simpler to make. But 
perhaps the second greatest invention was the McKay 
machine for stitching the bottoms. This machine took 
the place, in a large degree, of the ancient method of thc 
old-time shoemaker, as, with the shoe held on his knee 
by the stirrup, and his awl in his hand, his picture has 
core down to us from a remote antiquity. 
Another interesting development: Up to 1840 paper 
shoe boxes were unknown, but after this date shoe boxes 
came into general use and as shoe trade increased, the 
practice of double packing fine shoes, first in paper boxes, 
which were then packed in wooden cases, became general. 
Despite the rapid development in shoe machinery, 
still, there was yet to come some sort of arrangement for 
pattern cutting. Up to this time there were only a few 
styles of shoes, all made on the same general last, and 
needless to say, that oftentimes the fit was not exactly 
perfect. No single machine was sufficient to meet the 
ae: requirements of the unequal and irregular pro- 
portions found in human feet. 
As late as 1871 Israel G. Sutherland began the busi- 
might be super- 
ness of pattern making. He was an excellent mechanic 
and saw what was required to make the improvements 
more perfect. He carefully studied the subject and with 
the assistance of other skilled mechanics he devised a 
system of models which were well nigh perfect and suited 
to the ever different human foot. ‘Thus the three great 
steps in American shoemaking were taken, with the many 
smaller improvements which have tended to make up a 
perfect system of factory shoemaking. 
There is nothing surprising in this wonderful growth 
of the leather business in New England; the results are 
those naturally coming from a business which was estab- 
lished by the need of the people and the success was as- 
cured from the earliest beginnings. Capital was attracted 
to it, genius of our people, skill of our mechanics and 
enterprise of the men interested served to carry along to 
the top-notch of success the product of the machines in 
the factories of the manufacturers. 
No wonder is it, then, that the shoemaking industry 
of the country centers in the New England states, with 
our own Lynn, Salem and Beverly leading as shoemaking 
and leather centers. North Shoe visitors often regard 
it a rare privilege to visit some of the vast factories in this 
vicinity while they are on from the West and South. 
Preparedness and Common Sense 
GIFFORD PINCHOT 
CERT AIN pacificists assure us that Preparedness is use- 
less because there is no danger of war. Do they know, 
or are they merely asking us to accept their guess in a 
matter which vitally concerns the safety and welfare of 
the Nation? Millions of pacificists in the past have given 
the same assurance, and have been mistaken. Wars have 
come in spite of them. England was full.of people who 
affirmed that the present war was impossible up to the 
very moment of its breaking out, and who opposed with 
all their might any increase in armament until war actual- 
ly began. Preparedness is insurance against war. It 1s 
not militarism, and must not be confused with it. aath 
tarism is making ready for aggressive war. Any one 
who believes that. the people of the United States can Ais 
driven or dragged into aggressive militarism must have 
forgotten the whole trend of our history, and in particular 
our recent voluntary retirement from Cuba. 
The pacificists assure us that such military training as 
the Swiss people are giving themselves endangers demo- 
cracy, and that our young men will be hurt by learning to 
obey. But neither democracy nor personal independence 
have been injured in Switzerland, which is the most demo- 
cratic country of Europe. Universal military service 11 
New Zealand and Australia goes hand in hand with the 
most thorough-going — labor- ~controlled democracy on 
earth. 
The American people have a way of reaching com- 
mon sense decisions after long and often bitter discussion. 
There is hope that this is about to ha ppen in the present 
case. The reasonable advocates of National defense aad 
the reasonable pacifists seem to be on the verge of a 
reasonable agreement of views. For example, the papers 
of April 23 report, that Henry Ford said, in an, interview 
in New York: ‘I believe in reasonable Preparedness, 
end I wouldn’t object to an army of say 250,000 men. 
Less than a week before this statement of Ford’s, I asked 
Colonel Roosevelt what he would consider reasonable 
Preparedness. He replied: “The second navy in the 
world and an army of 250,000 men.” 
In this case, pacificist and advocate of Preparedness 
are in agreement as to the size of a reasonable army. An 
arny of 250,000 men means one soldier to about 430 
people. ‘There is one policeman for every 416 people iu 
Philadelphia, and one to every 429 people in New York, 
To me at least an army of that pro portionate size carries 
with it no threat that militarism is about to overwhelin 
democracy. 
Last year I was in Belgium. What I saw there I 
will never forget. No sacrifice can be too great to pre- 
vent our people or any part of them from being ruled by 
foreign bayonets. Talk is always cheap, but never cheap- 
er than when it sets guesses and wishes against the tre- 
mendous facts of the “world war. Guessing and wishiny 
are no defense. Guessing and wishing can not even keep 
the peace between our citizens. The force behind the 
law does that. How then can we trust them to keep the 
peace between the Nations? I am for Preparedness be- 
cause I believe it offers the best chance to escape war. 
It is cheap insurance at the price. 
Amip THE VARIED INTERESTS and contests involved 
by the war it is difficult to keep in mind all of the issues 
arising. One cannot think of the war as a single-barrel- 
ed affair. Its ramifications are varied and in the issue 
of the conflict hang the destinies of the entire world, 
America included. At present, however, the world in- 
terests are focussed upon Ireland and Italy. The Irish 
difficulty has but little bearing’ upon the main issues in- 
volved. Italy, however, is now fighting a war for national 
existence and maintenance of the national unity so dearly 
purchased by the struggles of the late years of the last 
centuries. Upon the success of her army against Aus- 
tria her whole future is dependent. The world war is 
being fought and every step is being contested fiercely 
and no concessions made without a struggle. Will Italy 
win against Austria? To the Italian this is a more per- 
sonal problem than the possible ieee of Allies against 
Germany. 
May 26, 1916. 
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