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NORTH SHORE BREEZE 
17 
GRAPE CULTURE UNDER GLASS 
SUBJECT OF TALK BEFORE THE NORTH SHORE 
HORTICTLTURAL SOCIETY 
A very interesting talk was given 
before the North Shore Horticultural 
society, Manchester, last Friday eve- 
ning. The subject was “Grape Cul- 
ture under Glass,” which was ably 
delivered by J. Tillson, of Beverly’ 
Farms. He dealt on planting and 
forcing the fruit. After the lecture, 
the topic was discussed by the mem- 
bers of the society, Mr. Tillson an- 
swering their questions. A vote of 
thanks was given Mr. Tillson. 
Eric H. Wetterlow had a fine ex- 
hibit of “Pure Culture’? mushrooms 
of four varieties for which he was 
awarded a certificate of merit by the 
Society. Mr. Tillson’s talk follows: 
“I have been asked to speak a few 
words here tonight and have taken 
for my subject “Grape Culture Un- 
der Glass.” I suppose we all know 
what the grape vine is. 
“In the first place we will take the 
border as that is the chief thing if 
we wish to make a success. In order 
that vines may produce regularly and 
support good crops for a number of 
years it is necessary to provide for 
them a good border of rich soil. 
This should be about three feet deep 
and should be made by degrees. A 
portion of from three to four feet 
in width is sufficient to commence 
with, ac.'ing a little more as the prog- 
ress of the vines demand it. 
“Another important point is the 
drainage. For if they are not prop- 
erly drained it is impossible to obtain 
good results. A good layer of large 
stones should first be put in the bot- 
tom, next a layer of smaller stones 
or broken bricks and other suitable 
material, then a smaller grade on top. 
On top of the drainage should be 
placed a layer of whole turfs with 
the grass-side down and then the soil 
may be put in. To produce heavy 
crops of fruit the soil must be rich 
and should be made up of materials 
not likely to become close or sodden. 
A good, turfy, fibrous loam is the 
principle constituent, in which the 
fibre is of such a nature that it will 
not rot soon. Loams vary much in 
texture and it is not always possible 
to obtain that which is best suited to 
the growth of the vine. The loam 
should first be chopped up into rough 
sized pieces, afterwards adding a fair 
percentage of charcoal and wood 
ashes and as much broken brick or old 
mortar rubble as will keep the whole 
mass open. For manure use 100 
weight half in bones and the same 
amount in bone meal. The whole 
should be mixed before putting it into 
the house or houses. 
PLANTING. 
“Planting may be performed either 
in the fall or spring. The roots 
should be laid out in a horizontal posi- 
tion; the topmost roots being about 
two inches below the surface. After 
planting, give a thorough soaking of 
water which will settle the soil around 
the roots. 
FORCING THE VINE. 
“The time when a vinery should be 
started depends on when the ripe 
fruit is required. For the fruit to be 
ripe in May, the house should be 
started about the first of December, 
thus allowing a period of about six 
months. For later crops less time is 
required. “With regard to tempera- 
ture: When a vinery is started say 
the ist of January, the temperature 
should be 45 degrees at night. When 
the buds have broken, increase it to 
50 degrees, and as soon as the roots 
are about three inches long, increase 
it further to 55 degrees. When the 
bunches begin to develop increase it 
again to 60 degrees, retaining the 
same until they commence to flower, 
when the night temperature should be 
65 degrees, with the exception of 
Muscats, which require a higher tem- 
perature of say 5 degrees. After the 
fruit is set keep the houses at 65 de- 
grees. until the fruit is properly col- 
ored and ripe. 
VENTILATION, 
“Air should be given at all times 
when the state of the weather will 
permit, but avoid cold draughts, and 
if possible, do not give air to lower 
the temperature. When the house 
has to be ventilated, the air should 
be shut off in the afternoon and the 
vines well syringed early enough to 
insure the temperature rising to 90 
degrees, and even if it should exceed 
this figure by a few degrees no harm 
will be done, provided there is suffi- 
cient moisture in the house. 
WATERING AND SYRINGING. 
“Heat, air and moisture should be 
regulated so as to induce an even 
growth. A warm, humid atmosphere 
is necessary to insure an even break 
of the buds, and this is obtained by 
syringing the vines several times a 
day and by dampening the borders, 
walls and foot paths. Syringing 
should be discontinued when the vines 
commence to flower until the fruit is 
set, then the syringing and dampen- 
ing of all the exposed surfaces in the 
house may be resumed at least twice 
‘easily seen. 
a day. Avoid watering if possible 
while the vines are in flower. 
DISBUDDING. 
“As vines usually develop more 
growth than is required, it is neces- 
sary to reduce their number by dis- 
budding. ‘The time for this is as soon 
as it can be seen how many shoots 
are likely to develop and which of 
these it is thought best to leave. 
PINCHING THE SHOOTS. 
“With fruiting vines this is usually 
done at the second leaf beyond the 
branch, with the exception of the 
leader, which should not be allowed 
to bear fruit but let grow away. 
THINNING THE FRUIT. 
“This can take place with free 
setting varities as soon as they are 
set, but with shy setters it is best to 
leave them a little longer, as the more 
promising berries then can be more 
Thinning the berries 
should be done according to the va- 
rieties, aS some varieties are larger 
than others, but avoid making the 
bunches too thin. It is advisable to 
go over them two or three times 
rather than try to thin them outright 
the first time. 
PROPAGATION. 
“This can be done by seeds, cut- 
tings, eyes, layers and grafts, but the 
usual method is by eyes. ‘These re- 
quire a little bottom heat to start 
them, potting as their progress de- 
mands it 
POT VINES. 
“Now we come to pot vines. 
These should be raised from eyes and 
grown on as strong as possible, pot- 
ting them on until a 12 or 15-inch 
pot is reached, which will be large 
enough for fruiting purposes. In the 
following winter when the canes. are 
started into growth cut them back to 
within three eyes of the soil, shake 
them out and repot them in as small 
a pot as possible. Select the stronger 
of the three breaks to form the fu- 
ture cane, rubbing off the other two. 
When well grown these vines are 
much stronger than those grown in 
one year. One year old canes can be 
fruited earlier than the two year old. 
The same temperatures, syringing, 
etc., as applied to forcing vines can 
be applied to pot vines. 
“Inarching is a method of propa- 
gation that has a great deal to recom- 
mend it inasmuch as there is no ne- 
cessity to lose a crop. The scion can 
take the form of a vine in a pot which 
can be easily placed in position and 
will support the scion until a union is 
formed. After which the — scion 
should be gradually cut away from its 
parent.” 
Welcome stove polish at Beaton’s. 
