ing a plant somewhat dry has the effect of promoting root action. However, 
it must be remembered that during the growing season, every orchid plant 
requires considerably more water in order to maintain its growth. 
POTTING. Plants in all sizes should be potted very firmly. Pots should 
contain about %4 crock. Our experience at Orchidhaven is that the 34, Size 
pots, or Azalea pots from 5 inches and up, are best because they have a 
larger bearing surface on the bench—providing greater stability, especially 
when the plant is tall. It is generally unwise to divide plants down lower 
than four-leaf bulbs. As a matter of sound practice, a fair amount of the 
old compost should be left on the plant so that it has sufficient substance 
until new roots are made. Rooting is fostered by keeping a plant on the 
dry side because roots grow from plants that are seeking moisture. After 
the roots are well set, watering can be gradually increased in order to fatten 
the bulbs and leaves as a means for obtaining a fine crop of flowers. 
When buds are starting up the sheath, caution should be taken in water- 
ing and temperature control. Over-watering or chilling the plant at this 
stage may blast the buds. 
The plant should always be kept well to the rear of the pot in order to 
leave plenty of growing space in the pot. It is important for the Cattleya 
grower to keep in mind the danger of over-potting. If there is a question 
about the size of the pot, be sure to choose the smaller one; it is always 
better to pot an extra time than to over-pot—besides, the watering of the 
plant becomes a more simple operation. Pots which are not too hard burned 
should be selected for orchid growing. A more porous pot helps the water 
and air to filter through the sides more readily than a hard burned pot. 
SEEDLING REPOTTING. At Orchidhaven, we generally use peat of the 
yellow or brown type as being the best under most conditions. In most 
instances—especially in the case of seedlings—it is not necessary to remove 
any peat. You can merely “drop the plant on,” placing the plant to the rear 
of a slightly larger pot and jamming peat in the extra space. In the case of 
small seedlings, the most effective method is not to remove any of the old 
peat in the various repottings until the plant is large enough to bloom. 
This gives the plant an opportunity to develop without any hindrance. 
Wire stakes are advised as supports for leaves and bulbs. Four-strand 
green cotton twine is recommended for tying to the stake. Be careful not 
to tie the leaves too tightly toward the stake. 
SHADING. The various methods by which you can obtain satisfactory 
shading include slats, aluminum cloth, and a number of mixtures applied 
on the exterior of the glass. This last method is employed for shading at 
Orchidhaven. We select naphtha and white lead (soft paste), mixing these 
in the following manner: 8 pounds of white lead to 8 gallons of naphtha 
with a 314 inch flower pot of linseed oil. Later in the season, when greater 
opaqueness is needed on the exterior to cut down radiation of light, the 
formula is changed to 1214 pounds of white lead to 8 gallons of naphtha 
15 
