HOW TO PLANT AND CARE FOR ROSES 
Roses need sunshine, but it is not necessary 
that they be exposed to the sun all day; half a 
day of sunshine is sufficient, either morning or 
afternoon. 
To prepare the beds remove one spade-depth 
of soil and pile it on one side. This is “topsoil”. 
Then remove a second spade-depth and pile it 
on the other side. This is ‘subsoil’, to be taken 
away. This makes a trench 18 inches deep. 
Rose roots seldom go deeper. Loosen the bottom 
of the trench with a spading fork. Refill the 
trench with the topsoil, mixing it with a liberal 
amount of well-rotted manure, then finish the 
bed with a good garden soil. (See sketches on 
page 23.) 
When planting roses, always carry the 
plants in a bucket of water. Prune the roots 
by shortening the long ones and making fresh 
cuts at the ends of the others. Dig a hole deep 
and wide enough to accommodate the roots, 
and refill the hole a little at a time, always 
packing the soil hard on the roots. When the 
hole is three-quarters full, pound the soil with 
your heels and all your weight, then pour in 
plenty of water. When the water has disap- 
peared, put soil in to the normal level, but do 
not pack any more. Prune the tops of the plants 
at about 6 to 8 inches above soil-level. This is 
very important if you desire to have a low com- 
pact bush that will produce large flowers. 
WINTER PROTECTION 
In cold climates roses need some extra pro- 
tection over the winter. The earth should be 
mounded up around each plant just before the 
ground freezes. The intervening spaces can be 
filled with stable manure if it is available. After 
the ground freezes, an additional covering of 
leaves and evergreen boughs prevents expo- 
sure to wind and sun. 
Watering. Roses like plenty of water. Flood 
the beds once a week by placing the hose on 
the bed and letting it run slowly so that water 
may reach deep to the roots. Avoid wetting the 
foliage, especially in the evening. 
Spent blooms should be removed, cutting the 
stem above the first complete set of five leaves. 
If long-stemmed blooms are desired for cutting, 
remove old flowers so that two sets of leaves 
remain on the stalk. The next blooms will 
spring from these eyes. 
Fertilizers. In the early spring, mulch rose 
beds wtih either old cow manure, peat moss, 
or lawn clippings. Feed each plant a half tea- 
cup full of well-balanced commercial fertilizer 
every two months during the growing season. 
Cultivate frequently around the roses. Do not 
allow the soil to bake and become hard at any 
time. Remember the roots breathe, and cultiva- 
tion permits the air to reach the roots. Without 
cultivation plants will remain at a standstill. 
Foliage trouble is caused by atmospheric con- 
ditions, some years being more favorable than 
others, and an occasional dusting with a mix- 
ture of nine parts of dusting sulphur to one 
part of arsenate of lead will act as a preventa- 
tive. For aphids, a spraying with nicotine or 
pyrethrum, following instructions on the bottle, 
will control these. 
A ROSE FANCIER’S CALENDAR 
JANUARY 
This is a good month for dormant spray. 
When we have a few dry days get busy, 
first pick up and dispose of old leaves from 
the ground and remove any foliage which 
persists on the canes. Such leaves are an 
important source of disease infection. Spray 
bushes thoroughly with commercial LIQUID 
lime-sulfur at rate of ONE gallon to EIGHT 
gallons of water. 
APRIL 
It is well to spray or dust the bushes regu- 
larly every TEN days. During the latter 
part of the month, an application of com- 
plete chemical fertilizer, 4-12-4* formula, at 
rate of about TWO pounds psr 100 square 
feet. Water in. 
JULY 
Spray or dust at regular TEN-day inter- 
vals. DO NOT spray or dust when tempera- 
ture is above 85 degrees. Water beds at 
weekly intervals. DO NOT FERTILIZE. Dur- 
ing latter part of month cut back some of 
the more “stocky” canes about SIX inches 
to stimulate new growth for the fall blooms. 
OCTOBER 
Spray or dust at TWO-week intervals, 
thereby making disease easier to control the 
following season. No water or fertilizer is 
needed this month. 
FEBRUARY 
If bushes have not been given a dormant 
spray in January they MUST be sprayed 
the forepart of this month or else spray in- 
jury to the new shoots will result. If the buds 
have started growing before the bushes can 
be sprayed, decrease the strength of the 
LIQUID lime-sulfur, using ONE gallon to 
TEN or TWELVE gallons of water. Around 
the 15th of the month apply from FOUR to 
SIX inches of cow manure to the beds. 
MAY 
Spzcy or dust at regular TEN day inter- 
vals. Apply complete fertilizer 4-12-4* for- 
mula, at weekly to 15 day intervals at rate 
of TWO pounds per 100 square feet, water 
in. It is well to give the beds a good water- 
ing eve y week. Hybrid Teas can be dis- 
budded at TWO-THREE-day intervals, leav- 
ing on_y the terminal bud on a shoot. 
AUGUST 
Spray or dust at regular TEN-day inter- 
vals. Water, SOAK beds at weekly inter- 
vals. DO NOT apply any fertilizer on the 
bushes during this month or root injury may 
result. 
NOVEMBER 
It is advisable to give your bushes a pre- 
liminary pruning or “topping” to minimize 
possible root damage during high winds 
and early frost. New roses may be planted 
this month. 
MARCH 
Weather regulates your pruning during 
this month; it is always safe to prune from 
the middle of this month to the latter part so 
that a late frost will not kill premature 
growth. Spraying or dusting for the contro] 
of diseases and insect pests should begin 
as the first leaves unfold, which will gen- 
erally take place the latter part of March. 
JUNE 
Spray or dust at regular TEN-day inter- 
vals. Water beds well at weekly intervals. 
A mulch of some sort should be applied 
to the soil during this month if cow manure 
has not been previously applied to hold 
moisture. 
SEPTEMBER 
Spray or dust at FIVE- to SEVEN-day 
intervals to prevent mildew from getting a 
start and ruining your fall blooms. Water, 
SOAK beds at TWO-week intervals if rain- 
fall for the month is below normal. Apply 
complete chemical fertilizer at weekly in- 
tervals. 
DECEMBER 
New roses may be planted from the lat- 
ter part of November up until May Ist. A 
winter spray of lime and sulphur may be 
given if dry weather prevails. 
—— | eee 
*PERTILIZER FORMULA—Ist number always nitrogen for flowers and leaves; 2nd number phosphate for growth; 3rd number potash for roots and substance. 
6 
N. VAN HEVELINGEN, PORTLAND, OREGON 
