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The newest book about daylilies— 
Daylilies and How to Grow Them. 
The Author—Mr. Ben Arthur Davis 
The publisher—Tupper & Love, Atlanta, Georgia 
The price—$3.50 
Dig bed deeply. Any type of soil will do, the pH is 
unimportant since they thrive equally well in alkaline or acid 
soil, but if it is sandy add humus to hold the moisture— 
compost, peat, cowpen manure. 
Mix in a complete fertilizer (4-8-8 or 5-10-10) about 
a pound to 10 square feet. (In Florida be sure 
the tracer elements are included.) 
Allow 2 square feet of growing space. 
Spread out roots, first pruning them severely to encourage 
immediate growth. (The daylily is lazy and will live off “its 
fat” if not required to get busy.) If plants have dried 
out—soak for a half hour before planting. (Transplantone 
may be added to the water if the plant is small 
and a very scarce variety.) 
Avoid deep planting—it is far better that they be too shallow 
for the strong roots have a tendency to draw the plant 
downward. Too deep planting is often the 
explanation of no bloom and little increase. 
Firm in soil well—trampling with feet is one method 
(all gardeners should wear boots). 
Water thoroughly—then give them time. 
Young plants may be mulched to advantage, but 
established clumps furnish their own mulch. 
Fertilize twice a year, in spring and fall. 
Water generously during blooming 
season if weather is dry. 
Divide and replant only when the size of bloom or 
sparseness of flowering indicates the roots are crowded 
and lacking food. In Florida maximum performance 
is achieved by more frequent resetting than is necessary 
in the north. (August and early fall is the 
best time to divide and replant.) 
Do not judge your bloom or number of blooms on a one 
year plant. Color, size, height of scape—none are 
typical until plant has become established. Nor should you 
judge the bloom during unusual weather. Remember 
that the daylily is a summer flowering plant. It 
never attains perfection of bloom until the weather is 
warm—particularly the nights. 
