Mrs. Ralph Nelson has been hybridizing for several years and all who know her know her critical 
taste and judgment so her first introduction had to be good. And we might say the same for 
Mr. Wadland of Sarnia, Ont., Canada. Mr. Becherer is already well known for several iris, yet we 
believe of all we have grown of his that Snow Goddess will bring him the most fame even though 
we continue to be charmed by his lovely Madam Mohr. Mrs. Crosby’s good taste in. selecting her 
seedlings is reflected in the things she has released thus far, and you will not be disappointed in 
the two she has to bring out this year. I persuaded Mr. Fred Crandall, of Seattle, Washington, to 
let me introduce his Rainier Valley for breeding purposes although he might have preferred to 
wait for one of its children. I think a goodly number of hybridizers would prefer to use the close-up 
I. hoogiana blood themselves and not wait for one of its offspring, so I am listing it at a modest 
price and I know you will not be disappointed in it either as a flower or as a parent. It is the best 
of the blue hoogiana seedlings I have seen, and although I think my own Hoogie Boy has a lot 
of charm it is not as easy to grow, by any means, as Rainier Valley. Mr. Brummitt’s things from 
England, and finally “Uncle Tell’s,’ which we cannot appraise with an impartial eye. 
There you have an imposing list of new introductions from a host of fine hybridizers, and 
in the following pages you have a rather comprehensive list of modern bearded iris, as well as some 
fine Spurias. We think the Dwarfs and the newer byhrids with I. pumila blood very fascinating 
and they hold unlimited possibilities in themselves as well as in the bringing of new vigor, color 
and form into the Tall Bearded. The “lilliput” hybrids of Geddes Douglas and the “intermediates” 
of Paul Cook are quite fertile both ways to other iris of their own type and to the regular Tetra- 
ploid tall bearded, so new vistas are in the offing. In Dwarfs, Mr. Welch, and others, are getting 
“Blacks” from crossing the pumila yellows with blues. I wonder if this would work the same with 
Tall Bearded? Their color-inheritance might be different. At any rate the field is open to any 
who have the love and time to devote to such a fascinating endeavor. 
Several of my friends have written of experiments in germinating iris seed. We all know the 
amoeanas seem to be a little difficult to germinate. Two of my frinds (and I will reveal their 
names next year if continued success bears out their early success) have found that by gathering 
the pods just before they crack open and putting them in closed jars and freezing the pods until 
very late fall (just before the first snow, in fact) before shelling out the seed and planting it that 
almost 100% germination resulted. One of the growers gathered the seed normally, put it into 
bottles after it was shelled out—put the closed bottles in the refrigerator (not freezing the seed) 
until planting time in October, soaked each batch of seed in water for 3 or 4 days then poured off 
the water and dusted the seed with Rootone before planting. Then the secret of a good seed bed 
remains. This should contain a light sandy soil with perhaps some well-rotted barnyard manure, 
peat moss, compost and good soil thoroughly mixed to a depth of at least 4 inches. ‘The seed-bed 
should never be allowed to dry out after the seeds have been planted. If the bed is covered with 
glass, or other protective covering after winter has set-in, the frames should not be removed until 
danger of frost is over and the little seedlings should be set out in the cool of spring—preferably 
before the T.B. iris bloom to insure the best growth. Some of the new root-forming stimulants 
such as Hyponex, Liquid Vigoro or liquid fish fertilizer each mixed in the proper amounts of 
water will help to feed the seedlings and keep them from wilting (shock) if the roots are soaked 
in these solutions (one or the other) before transplanting. One should remember, however, that 
these tiny plants need water and the ground should be moist when transplanting and it would be 
wise to water them as they are planted and as often as needed thereafter until they get established 
and on their own, when less frequent waterings will be necessary. Now all that one has to do is 
keep the weeds down and in a year new creations open to thrill, or disparage, the eager hybridizer. 
Yet “hope springs eternal” and we try again and again! 
Best wishes and happy gardening to all. 
AS ever, 
ONGLRST BEES 
JOIN THE AMERICAN IRIS SOCIETY AND THE IRIS SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN 
Four quarterly bulletins of the American Iris Society will keep you up-to-the-minute on the latest 
in IRIS news and varieties. Yearly membership $4.00. Family membership (husband and wife) $5.00. 
3 years’ membership $10.00. 
Membership in the Iris Society of Great Britain $3.00. The year book is a must. 
Send memberships for either society to: 
THE AMERICAN IRIS SOCIETY, 390 Hillsboro Rd., Nashville, Tenn., or send a check payable 
to American Iris Society and include it with your order for plants and I will forward same. 
To anyone not already a member of either of the iris societies I will offer a pink seedling (or any 
other color) if the membership is included with an order for iris. Just send your check made out to 
The American Iris Society and request the seedling on the order sheet, making a choice of a color 
preference. 
Utah iris fanciers are urged to join the Utah Iris Society, dues $1.00 per year. Send your dues 
to: Hugh C. Lewis, 627 3rd Avenue, Salt Lake City. 
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