GROWING CYMBIDIUMS IN NEW ENGLAND 
ae a Oe Se Sgn ee ere Se 
For fifteen years we have been experimenting with various methods of grow- 
ing Cymbidiums, and present herewith some observations based on personal and, 
we may add, costly experience. 
To begin with, a vigorous plant will keep its vigor for a long time despite 
abuse, while a weak plant takes years of nursing to restore its vigor. 
Unless very valuable, a plant with a bad attack of virus is better on the dump. 
Fungicides may help, but better be brave and get rid of a source of possible 
infection. 
We use a potting mixture of one-half sharp sand, one-half by loose measure 
well “‘cooked’’ compost, from the garden pile, but believe they will grow well in 
about any mix that is really porous, and which will not become soggy. 
We never let the plants get dry, and always water with very weak cow manure 
water — three gallons of well-aged strong manure water to 100 gallons of clear 
water. No bone meal, no artificial fertilizers, no nonsense. Under this system 
our P.h. is slightly acid. 
We sink our pots half way in sand on the benches to check drying out too fast. 
We never spray the plants for we cannot see that it is necessary, and it 
spreads any virus like magic. 
We never wet down the walks; give them clear glass from October to March; 
and whitewash only enough to keep the NEW growth from turning yellow and 
keep the house cooler in summer. In winter, a night temperature of about 56 
degrees, day temperatures between 56 and 80 degrees when the plants are carry- 
ing spikes; in summer we certainly go over 100 degrees on a hot day, — and if 
the plants are vigorous, we rather think they like it. At all times when not too 
cold we give them lots of air. 
We spray with fungicide once or twice during the summer, as a prophylaxis, 
and gas twice with Aramite as soon as the flowers are over, and twice again about 
July 1st to be sure there are no red spiders. We find gassing kills any buds even 
in the sheaf. 
Snails, our only other problem, can be killed off effectively with Kilslug from 
the L. Sherman Adams Company. 
We don’t break up our plants until they get too big, just knock them out and 
put them in a pot two inches larger in diameter, filling in around them with fresh 
soil. Don’t be afraid of overpotting. As we do not bother with crock, this 
operation takes about two minutes, and the new soil is firmed down with a couple 
of cups of water. 
This about covers it, according to our experience. Perhaps two-thirds sand 
would be better than a 50-50 mix, especially on large plants. Don’t think you are 
being kind by cheating on the proportions. We have some of our most healthy 
plants growing in pure sand. 
Start with clean, healthy plants. Weak ones, or for that matter seedlings, 
take far longer than you will believe to bring to real maturity. 
Once again, we repeat this is only a system that seems to work well for us, 
under New England conditions. We think we get good bloom, and our plants are, 
we think, vigorous and healthy. 
Perhaps our experiences may help others a little, and so we offer this with 
our compliments. 
TWIN BROOK GREENHOUSES, INC. 
