GROWING 'MUMS FROM START TO FINISH 
First step if you are not experienced in growing "MUMS 
is to acquaint yourself with their habits and needs, then be 
prepared to take care of them as they progress in growth. 
We give below basic details which we find are most widely 
used among reputable growers in this section of the 
country. The grower will soon learn by his own experience 
how to modify or elaborate on these instructions. 
The successful grower will figure out his planting sched- 
ule, many months or a year in advance. This not only helps 
you but the supplier of young stock to have sufficient stock 
for the particular planting date. Have the space ready for 
them and plant the cuttings on arrival or as soon as possible. 
The cuttings you receive will be grown under modern con- 
ditions, from the cleanest stock available, and as free from 
disease and premature buds as modern methods can produce. 
SOIL — Preparation and Fertilizing 
‘Mums grow well in most soils. Moderately porous soil 
is best. This can be made by the addition of peat or manure 
but knowing the behavior and nutrient content of your own 
particular soil is important. Soil tests will give you this 
information and if you cannot do this yourself, your Agri- 
cultural College or Experiment Station will be glad to do 
it for you. 
Before sterilizing or planting, add lime and super- 
phosphate as needed. (In case of steam sterilizing these 
materials should be added before sterilizing.) Use about 
3-5 Ibs. to 100 sq. ft. of bench space. Nitrogen and Potash 
can be added after the plants have become established and 
start to grow. These elements can be applied in dry or 
liquid form according to the growers preference. A com- 
plete dry fertilizer such as 5-8-7 or 5-10-5 or any of the 
water soluable fertilizers can be used. 
When using old soils, or soil used for a previous crop, 
it should first be sterilized. Then watch for high soluable 
salts which may be present after sterilization. These salts 
cause plenty of trouble to Mums. They are the residue of 
fertilizers used on the previous crop, and will kill the roots 
of young cuttings or seedlings, or result in a poor sickly 
crop. These salts can be washed out of the soil by heavy 
leaching with water, giving two applications in succession. 
SOIL STERILIZATION 
Sterilizing the planting soil is vitally important in des- 
troying such diseases as Verticillium wilt, nematodes, and 
other destructive organisms carried in the soil, to insure 
a quality crop and is a must if successive crops of "Mums 
are grown in the same soil. The cuttings supplied, while 
free of diseases when received will pick up various diseases 
from the soil they are planted in, unless it has been properly 
and thoroughly sterilized. Before sterilizing be sure to 
loosen all soil thoroughly as steam or chemicals cannot 
penetrate hard packed soil satisfactorily. 
In addition to producing a better crop it also proves 
to be economical in allowing reuse of valuable soils and 
humus, and saving on costly labor involved in changing 
soils and weeding. 
Sterilizing can be done with either Steam or Chemicals. 
With steam sterilizing, which is most practical, it is neces- 
sary first that the soil be moist before sterilizing and that 
a temperature of 180 degrees farenheit be maintained 
throughout the entire soil mass for a period of not less 
than one half hour. 
Chemical sterilizing can be used where steam is not 
available and circumstances will permit it. The soil should 
be at least 60 degrees farenheit and the greenhouse being 
treated should have no other living plants in it, as chemical 
reactions will destroy them. There are a number of chem- 
icals suitable for this work, but whatever is used, follow 
the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. 
PLANTING AND SPACING 
The time of planting will be determined by the blooming 
date, or response group, quality and size of flowers, and 
pinching if desired. For normal flowering allow about 
three weeks from planting to pinching. Normal pinch date 
is given with each variety listed in the general catalogue 
of varieties. For the off season program refer to schedule 
outlined in this catalogue for planting and pinching data. 
Plant cuttings shallow, not over one inch deep and 
directly to permanent benches if possible, soon as the 
cuttings are received. Keep roots of the cuttings protected 
at all times while planting. Exposure, especially to hot sun 
and wind, will destroy the root action in a few seconds. 
If space is not ready when cuttings arrive they should be 
potted or banded to keep them soft and growing. Here 
again, careful attention should be given to see they are put 
in fresh or sterilized soil, so as to keep them free of ver- 
ticillium wilt and other soilborne diseases. Be sure not to 
let them stay too long in this crowded condition. Shading 
newly planted stock on very hot sunny days for the first 
couple of days will help considerably, as well as, frequent 
spraying with water over the tops of the cuttings. They 
should not be allowed to wilt. 
Spacing will depend on the quality desired as well as 
the time of year and number of pinches. Standards are 
generally spaced 7 x 8 or 8 x 8, grown two stems to the 
plant. Some growers allow three flowers to come on the 
outside rows where light is more abundant. For single stem 
culture 6 x 6 or 6 x 7 is ample. Pompon spacing depends 
on method of pinching and varieties. Some varieties have 
much heavier foliage than others and require more space. 
For the one pinch method 7 x 8 or 8 x 8 is fairly standard. 
For 2 pinch method 8 x 9 or 9 x 9 will be sufficient. For 
single stem production 4 x 6 or 4 x 7 is about right. The 
general rule followed is to give each flowering shoot 
approximately 20 sq. in. of space. 
WATERING 
Chrysanthemums require lots of water, especially when 
grown on raised benches and if you have a good porous, 
well drained soil. Water heavily after planting and then 
spray or sprinkle plants for a few days until they have taken 
hold. Do not let them wilt if possible. Once the foliage 
