gets heavy do not water overhead and by no means allow 
the foliage to be wet overnight. Keep the foliage dry and 
the soil moist. 
PINCHING 
Pinching means the stopping of the upright growth of 
the plants by cutting or breaking off the growing tip of the 
plant stem. It is done to increase the number of stems per 
plant, to control type of bud formation and to keep plants 
shorter in growth. This will cause a number of breaks or 
shoots to appear. The plants should be pe soon after 
the cutting takes hold and starts to grow freely. Usually only 
the tip of the stem is removed when under fast modern 
production. Do not pinch down into the hard stem. Thin- 
ning the breaks down to about 3 shoots to the plant on 
pompon varieties and 2 shoots on the Standards usually 
give best results. Normal pinch dates are given in the 
general listing of varieties. For the off season cut flower 
or pot plant program refer to pinch dates in the desired 
schedule. 
LIGHT AND TEMPERATURE 
Except for the first few days when the young cuttings are 
planted or potted, Chrysanthemums require all the light 
they can get. If shade is on the roof from summer it is best 
to remove it at least by the 1st of September. Chrysanthe- 
mums are no longer considered a cool crop. A minimum 
of 50 degrees or better still 55 to 60 degrees night temper- 
ature is considered best for all stages of growth for normal 
flowering. This is particularly important during bud initia- 
tion as too low a temperature will prevent buds from 
forming properly and likely result in some blind growth. 
Temperatures too high, 90 degrees or over, which can 
occur under black cloth, is also bad as it tends not only to 
slow down the crop but fades the pink, red and bronze 
shades. 
INSECTS — PREVENTION AND CONTROL 
It is very important to keep the stock clean and free 
of injurious insects. The best way to insure this is to start 
spraying the plants about two weeks after planting and 
to spray at intervals of every two or three weeks until color 
shows. You will find it easier to keep them clean than to 
wait until infestation shows up and causes damage, then 
have the task of trying to get the best of it. 
A good general purpose spray for Chrysanthemums: 
Material Amount to make 
Water 100 Gal. 25 Gal. 3 Gal. 
DDT 50% wettable 1 Jb. Y/, Ib. 11/, tbsp. 
powder 
Malathion 25% 24 Ibs. 10 oz. 4 tbsp. 
wettable powder 
Parzate, or Fermate 
DuPont Spreader 6 oz. 
sticker - or other 
spreading agent 
such as Dreft, may 
also be used 
114 Ibs. 5 02. 2 tbsp. 
2 tbsp. 1 tsp. 
Mixing Procedure — Put all dry ingredients into a can 
or pail. Add small amount of water, stir to make a thin 
paste. Put a small portion of the water to be used into 
the spray tank. Add above mixture slowly, stirring con- 
stantly, (run agitator while adding the mixed solution). 
Add balance of water and be sure it is well mixed before 
using. 
DISBUDDING 
It is extremely important that you take the time to select 
the flowering buds on Standards as soon as they appear 
and are sizeable enough to remove. If the crop was planted 
and pinched on or near the recommended dates, flower 
the first bud that appears. In other words, as soon as a bud 
of any kind appears, remove all side shoots and let the 
center bud flower. 
SUPPORTING THE PLANTS 
To grow good flowers with good stems it is essential 
to keep the plants properly supported at all times. 
The wires and cross string method is least work, most 
economical and practical. Start supporting the plants soon 
as they are established and either add additional layers of 
wires and cross strings or move the first layer up about 
every 10 to 15 days depending on growth. 
TO PREVENT PREMATURE BUDS 
‘MUM CUTTINGS received before May 1st, if grown 
at a temperature above 50 degrees will require additional 
light to prevent premature formation of buds. Use 60 watt 
bulbs spaced 4 feet apart and 30 inches above the plants. 
