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How to Plant Canned and Balled TREES and SHRUBS 
WHEN PLANTS are in cans, they may be 
removed by cutting down two sides of the 
can with tin snips or chisel and pulling the 
sides apart so that the can comes off 
easily. Handle so as not to break open 
the ball of earth. 
Pots may be removed by the following 
method: Place four fingers against the 
surface of the soil, invert the pot, tap 
lightly against something solid and out 
come the contents in your hand in one 
solid piece. 
In every case, the soil in the container 
should be fairly moist so that it will hold 
together and care should be used to keep 
all the earth possible on the roots. 
For plants in gallons and 6-inch pots, 
dig a hole approximately 15 inches by 15 
inches. For plants in 5-gallon or 9-inch 
pots, dig a hole approximately 24”x24”. 
In all cases, plants should be planted 
in the ground at about the same level as 
they were in the container. 
After the hole is partially filled, use 
water generously before filling the hole 
with top soil so that the water will settle 
the soil and eliminate all air pockets. 
BALLED PLANTS should be handled 
by lifting the ball and not the top. 
Dig a hole large enough to hold ball and 
permit firming the earth around it. Place 
plant with top of ball even with the sur- 
face of the ground. Do not remove burlap. 
Fill in about Y3 with soil, then cut top 
string and fold back corners of burlap. Fill 
the hole with water and, when soaked in, 
throw in the remainder of the soil. Firm 
the soil well, leave a shallow basin and 
fill again with water. Water again to assure 
thorough soaking of the ball. Do not rely 
on sprinklers or sprinkling system to do 
this until plant is well established. 
Never place commercial fertilizer in 
the hole when planting. Small quantities 
of fertilizer may be applied when plants 
are thoroughly established and growing. 
Plants Are Available in These Forms 
Select the Size and Price to Fit Your Needs 
Reprint Courtesy California 
Association of Nurserymen 
b) 19 
BALLED IN BURLAP 5 BALLON CONTAINER IGALCONTAINER FLAT STOCK 
HOW TO GROW ROSES 
The two most important factors in rose growing are buying top grade plants and 
proper planting in a suitable location. 
Roses prefer an open area, free of tree and shrub roots, where they get half a day 
or more of sun, preferably morning sun. Keep roots moist and covered when planting. 
Most any well-drained soil, not too acid or alkaline can be made into good rose soil. 
Dig a hole about 2 feet deep and 18 inches across. Mix peat moss, Vita Peat, and/or 
well-rotted manure with soil in the bottom of the hole. Spread out the roots and fill 
in with a soil mixture of dirt and peat. Be sure that the bud union (bulge on understock 
where the top is budded on to the root) is slightly above the finish level of the surround- 
ing ground. Firm the soil and soak thoroughly with water. 
Roses are heavy feeds. Fertilize from mid-March to mid-September, using 2 cup of 
well-balanced fertilizer per plant. After first application of commercial fertilizer a 
mulch of well-rotted manure may be applied. 
Roses require plenty of water. Keep beds moist at all times. Frequency depends on 
soil, from once or twice a week in sandy soil, to once in two weeks in heavy soil. Allow 
water to run slowly and soak deeply. A generous supply of water will produce sturdy 
and more vigorous plants and will increase the quantity and quality of blooms. 
Weeding is a garden job that never ends, but it can be greatly simplified by the use 
of a mulch. Peat moss, Vita-peat, well-rotted manure or some other appropriate shred- 
ded material, helps to keep down weeds and to keep the soil in the rose bed damp and 
cool. Where no mulch has been used, light cultivation of the surface soil will probably 
be necessary to remove weeds and prevent caking. Avoid deep cultivation which will 
damage small roots growing near the surface. 
Spraying or dusting to control fungus diseases and insects is another important 
summer chore. A combination insecticide-fungicide should be applied at 10-day 
intervals during the early morning or late afternoon. Remember that the spray must 
cover the underside of the leaves as well as the top to gain the maximum effect. 
Summer chores in the rose garden are neither difficult nor time-consuming, but they 
require regular attention. 
January is the best month for pruning bush roses in California. As much as possible 
cut out the old wood and shorten back the new growth about 2 of last year’s growth. 
Cut out twiggy growth and cross branches. When cutting blooms leave 3 or 4 leaves 
with the top one pointing in the direction you wish the growth to go. 
PRUNING CLIMBING ROSES. For the first two years after planting do not prune 
climbing roses. From third year on cut back all old flowering wood 13 right after the 
flowering period. Climbers which bloom once a year bloom on wood produced the 
previous year. Prune these right after flowering to allow a good growth for next year’s 
flowers. 
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