208° QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Ava.,; 1901. 
Unfortunately, many selectors have the erroneous idea that_a vineyard can be 
cultivated at odd times when there is nothing else to do. Not so; neglect of 
certain details of cultivation, or even delay of a day or two, may mean the 
difference between success and failure. On this point the writer cannot insist 
too strongly : let no man attempt viticulture on any scale unless he has ample 
time to devote to it. 
The next point to be considered by him is, which to plant—wine or table 
grapes. The latter give the better return per acre, but require more attention 
as a rule, and certainly take up more time in picking and packing; whereas 
wine grapes, being sold in bulk, can be grown on a larger scale. On this point 
much depends on the locality, nearness to railway lines, local demand, &c. 
Tt is not at all necessary for a vigneron to make wine if he grows wine 
grapes; nine times out of ten he had better not do so. ‘There is a certain and 
increasing demand for wine grapes from winemakers in all parts of the State. 
Sort.—Before a man plants a vineyard he should closely examine his sub- 
soil and find out if it is of a porous nature, permitting moisture to pass down 
freely ; if it is not, he had better give up the idea of growing grapes. Some 
clay subsoils are porous; some are not. A good way of testing it is to sink a 
hole down to about 18 inches depth in the subsoil and fill with water; if all 
the water gets away in a few hours, the clay is porous; if, after twenty-four 
hours, there is still water there, it may be taken to be an impervious subsoil. 
If the ground is dry, the water must be filled in two or three times before 
deciding. Ifa man plants vines on an impervious subsoil, instead of being a source 
of profit to him, they will be an expensive worry, with disease and grape rot for 
their portion. With the exception of the Isabella, all vines abhor stagnant 
moisture about the roots; and half the disease and sickness amongst vines in 
Queensland arises from this cause. Drainage ameliorates the trouble, but is 
costly and uncertain. It is far better not to run any risks, but plant other 
trees or crops on such soils. If the subsoil is well drained, it is not necessary 
that the top soil should be rich; in fact, in too rich soils the vine does ‘not 
do so well; the growth is so great, the vegetation resembles that of a serub, 
entailing constant topping and tying up. If, on the other hand, this exuberance 
of growth is utilised to produce crop by allowing a more generous pruning, 
the result is a very large crop; but nine times out of ten, the grapes are 
deficient in colour and ripen late and badly. Moderately fertile soil of a sandy, 
loamy, or gravelly nature is best; granitic, calcareous, schistose, and sand- 
stone débris are all good for vines, together with recent alluvials and drifts. 
On poor soils of a sandy nature, vines thrive well for a few years, but after that 
some form of manure will be necessary to keep up their strength. 
Asprer.—The question of aspect is not of so much importance in Queens- 
land as in Europe, where the warmest exposures are chosen to ensure perfect 
ripening and saccharine richness of fruit; here we have more sun than is 
required for those purposes. But in choosing a position for a vineyard care must 
be observed in avoiding one that is liable to spring frosts or violent westerly 
winds, as both these troubles will, in some seasons, considerably reduce the crop. 
Choose north and eastif itis available; but, as said above, too much importance 
need not be attached to this point. 
Preparation of THE Lanp.—The ground should be broken up several 
months at least before planting, to allow the soil to sweeten ; if a crop of corn 
or other produce is taken off it first, so much the better. If the soil is of a 
stiff consistency, like the chocolate soils of basaltic origin, it should be broken 
up as deeply as possible with a sub-soiler, or by running a second plough in the 
furrow lett by the first. Trenching is superior to anything, but, as not one man 
in a thousand can afford to do it, it need not be discussed here. After the last 
ploughing, let the soil lie to sweeten and aérate for some weeks, and then run 
a cultivator through it once or twice to bring it into a fine state of tilth, as 
double the number of cuttings will strike in a finely divided soil as compared 
with those planted in a soil all clumps and clods. 
