824 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Sepm., 1901. 
in depth, to ensure that the ultimate crowns are not too shallow. Where there 
is an opportunity of forcing asparagus, which is a very simple process, giving 
good returns, sow the seed in rows 2 feet apart; let the plants all grow until 
they are large enough for forcing, then dig up every other row for that purpose. 
This leaves the permanent plants 4 feet apart in the rows, under which condi- 
tions they will ultimately succeed remarkably well. * 
Tt should be noted that, by the methods we have described, the whole 
resource of the ground is not devoted to the asparagus crops alone, as good 
crops of lettuce, dwarf beans, &c., can be grown between the rows. 
The richly-manured land will produce the best-hearted midsummer lettuce, 
however dry the season—from seeds sown in rows where they are to produce 
and carry the plants to perfection without transplanting. If Cos lettuce is 
sown in September, good lettuces will result, and this inter-cropping assists in 
keeping the ground free from weeds. 
Thinning must be done when the asparagus plants are an inch or two 
high, provided the seedlings are strong. It will be well to sprinkle the seed- 
lings with salt about twice a month, as it will benefit them and keep off injurious 
pests. 
AFTER-CULTURE. 
The whole after-culture of a bed of asparagus consists in placing a liberal 
row of fine decayed manure along the rows, exactly over the crowns, during 
September each year, or before the blades begin to push up. 
Mernops or TRANSPLANTING. 
Two distinct plans are advocated. One is to chop out with a spade a 
slanting drill, against which the plants are laid at proper distances, the roots 
being spread fan-shape against it and covered with soil. The other is, to draw 
a drill row of sufficient width for the roots on either side of the crowns; then, 
with the corner of the hoe, slightly draw the soil from the two outer sides of 
such wide drill as to cause a ridge in the centre. Upon these ridges the crowns 
of the plants are made, so to speak, to ride, with thin roots spread out down its 
sides to the lower levels on both sides. 
As the habit of the roots is to grow out somewhat horizontally at but a few 
degrees angle downwards, it is obvious this latter plan gives greater facilities 
to the roots to assume a natural position than when forced too directly 
downwards in a fan-like cluster, as by the former method. 
When planting, insert the crowns 2 inches deep. 
Currine. 
Tt is all-important to cut when the shoots are of perfect uniform length. 
Each blade must be cut before the scales are in anywise rough or loose about 
its apex. When they are cut, bundle them, and stand them upright in a dark, 
cool place—not in water—so that the bundles can be added to from pace 
cuttings. Do not cut the bottoms of the bundles to the necessary length unti 
required for packing. Bundles of various sizes consist of hundreds, half, and 
quarter hundreds. 
In cutting, cut deep below the surface with a long, narrow-bladed knife. 
Norrts on Manvurine. 
All organic manures are suitable for use on the beds; but care must be 
exercised in the use of any of these, lest they be too hot and injure the plants, 
especially if applied directly to the roots and immediately over the crowns. 
When the young shoots come up through it fresh, hot manure is likely to 
produce rust, or to render the shoots unsightly, and thus injure their sale. 
Especially is this true in light sandy soils. 
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