in the winter. If your shoot begins late in summer or autumn, it will follow 
the seasons and be dormant in winter and will not make up into a bulb but 
will re-grow in spring, bulb poorly and break into the second season’s growth 
before it gets in step, and is behind, compared with a lead from a back-bulb 
made early in spring, for perhaps two or even three years. (5) When the 
new lead shows its first roots, take the back-bulb out and repot it as prev- 
iously described. Do not overpot it and do not use rich compost to make it 
grow quickly. Do not overwater it. If you lose the new roots on the new 
lead, the lead is checked considerably, may even die, and you may be back 
to starting off with a back-bulb again. (6) Grow under shelter, preferably 
in a glass-house, for the first month. Do not push it straight into direct sun 
immediately on repotting. A few days’ neglect or extreme weather may harm 
it. Give it good light, in a sheltered position and some care. One or two 
months after repotting, move it into a position where it gets morning sun, 
and gradually prepare it to take its place with the adult plants in later 
summer or autumn. 
INTENSIVE VEGETATIVE PROPAGATING 
This is used where the back-bulb has shot from only one dormant eye 
and the plant is highly regarded, and you want as many growths as possible 
from the one back-bulb. The method should only be used when the original 
back-bulb used is vigorous, fairly young, and has started its growth in spring 
or early summer. 
The method is as follows: when the first growth has rooted well in its 
pot, usually two months or so after repotting and before the roots are cling- 
ing to the sides of the pot, carefully hose out the compost. Very carefully 
separate the new lead from the back-bulb and repot it in compost that is 
dry. Leave it for two or three days and keep well sheltered. On the third 
day soak the pot thoroughly and let it dry out. Then soak it again and shelter 
the plant for a few weeks. The back-bulb is started again in the usual way 
from a second eye. This process may be done until the bulb is exhausted. 
PESTS 
Cymbidiums are not troubled greatly with pests. Various scales and 
thrips can attack them, especially young plants grown under shelter, but can 
be controlled by the usual sprays. Earthworms, slugs and snails are a 
trouble, especially if the plants are grown directly on the ground. They can 
be controlled to some extent by raising the pots off the ground and by the 
usual remedies known to all gardeners. 
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