the root system, many being dead or dying, just because of this fanatical 
hurry to water. Shrivelling after repotting is often due to this immediate 
watering, as well as by bad handling in repotting or failing to select the 
proper time to repot. Often it is made worse because the shrivelling often 
induces the grower to water even more in an attempt to correct it. Shrivelling 
is, in actual fact, due to the loss of water through the leaves in excess of 
water than can be taken in by a dead or dying root system. Shrivelling 
nearly always means dead roots rather than dryness, and if you water to 
CYGNUS, ‘Gold var.’ 
(Conningsbyanum x Alexanderi, ‘Westonbirt,’ F.C.C., Rates) 
correct it without first insuring that the root system of an orchid is not only 
dry but also sound, you surely make it worse. 
After the fourth or fifth day, water the plant thoroughly, and if the com- 
post settles down, add a little more. Let the pot dry out and remain dry for 
two or three days, then water again and let it dry out once more for two 
or three days. After this you can safely water to keep the compost moist, 
never continuously wet. Do not be afraid to let the plant dry out for a time, 
short of shrivelling from dryness, until active new growth is observed. The 
reason for this advice is as follows: The new growth is born, and supported 
in its early life, from a bulb, and it is a mistake to continually water an es- 
tablished plant with roots in an endeavor to start it off in new growth or to 
re-start an autumn new growth that has stood still during the depths of 
winter. The roots will not be growing until or just before the new growth 
starts or, if started in autumn, until it becomes active. They may have been 
damaged by repotting. They cannot cope with excess water, and if the 
compost is kept continually wet you will only succeed in rotting them. 
el A oe 
