DRAINAGE 
When one asks a grower why he enlarges the drainage hole in the bot- 
tom of the pot, almost invariably he will answer, “For better drainage.” He 
really does it for two reasons: first, to minimize the risk of a small hole 
blocking, and the second and main reason is for aeration, both often being 
negatived by standing the pot directly on the ground. For drainage pure 
and simple, if the hole is clear, the very smallest hole is quite adequate, the 
drainage really occurring in and depending upon the compost and crocking. 
The hole is merely the final exit for the drainage that occurs in the compost. 
An exit hole one-fourth of an inch in diameter would pass gallons of water 
in a few minutes, if clear. 
Therefore the size of the hole does not affect drainage. Drainage occurs 
in the compost. Not even perfect crocking or the largest hole will influence 
it. The hole can only pass what passes through the compost. Drainage in 
practice depends upon the physical texture of the compost. 
HOW TO REPOT 
The pot should be selected for size and prepared, and the compost ready 
mixed and dry. Take the plant to be repotted, lay it on its side and hose out 
the old compost with a single stream strong enough to do this thoroughly but 
without undue force. In cymbidiums it will be found that most of the roots 
will leave the pot, especially if the pot is well wetted before the hosing is 
started. 
Cut away all dead and broken roots. Cut away those bulbs older than 
three years. It will be exceptional if any bulbs older than three years have 
any live roots. They are of use as back-bulbs but of no use on the plant. 
Bulbs older than three years will never flower, never shoot unless the rhizome 
is broken, and are a drain on the plant’s constitution if left on the plant. 
Make them work as back-bulbs and grow new plants, and keep the original 
plant juvenile. Divide the plant with these ideas in mind if division is 
necessary. 
Arrange the roots over the crock, and so the plant is a reasonable dis- 
tance below the rim of the pot, holding it in this position with one hand, the 
oldest bulbs being nearest to the edge of the pot. Fill in the dry compost 
around the sides and then shake or bump the pot until the compost filters 
in and around the roots. Add more compost, still holding the plant at the 
desired level and position until the plant is firm. Add more compost to just 
cover the base of the plant, and bump and shake the pot to settle it. Never 
ram the compost and never pull the plant. Clean and spray the leaves with 
approved insecticide. Do not peel the protective covering off the back-bulbs. 
AFTER-TREATMENT 
No matter how carefully you have repotted the plant, it has suffered 
some damage, greater or less, according to your experience and skill. Stand 
the plant in a cool, moist place. The compost being dry and the pot aerated, 
abrasions and fractures of the roots will heal over. It is a mistake to water 
immediately on repotting because these abrasions and fractures rot. If you 
could knock the plant out after three or four weeks (if immediate watering 
after repotting is your custom), you would be surprised at the damage to 
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