CULTURAL HINTS 
SELECTION OF LOCATION 
In selecting the location for your rose bed, it is not important 
whether your plants get morning or afternoon sunlight, but that 
they do get at least a half day of sun. Part shade is even preferable 
to a full day of sunlight. 
TREE ROOTS 
Select a location where tree roots cannot interfere with your rose 
roots. It is surprising how quickly tree roots will find a rose bed 
and fill it, consuming food and moisture intended for the plants. 
If tree roots are present, dig a trench around the bed as deep as 
the tree roots extend, thereby cutting off all that might attempt 
to enter the bed. This trench may be filled in again immediately, and 
should be dug around the rose bed every year or two if tree roots 
prove bothersome. 
PLANT EARLY 
The best time in the Spring to plant Wyant Roses is just as soon 
as the soil is workable. Do not wait until the warm, sunshiny days 
of Spring to start planting. This is too late to get best results. In 
this latitude late March is an ideal time. Planting as late as May 
seldom gives the results you anticipate. Fall planting is usually 
even Safer than Spring planting, but if you can plant in early 
Spring there is no reason to lose a whole season’s enjoyment. Hybrid 
Teas planted in early Spring start to bloom in June of the same year. 
oe ES 
It is best to keep away from either extremely heavy or extremely 
light soil. Loam soils have more food in them. Heavy soils can be 
improved and made lighter by adding peat, ground corn cobs or 
some other type of humus. These additives will also improve light 
soils and enable them to retain more moisture. Use the best soil 
you can get for your roses. Acidity and alkalinity make very little 
difference . . . roses are very tolerant. 
PLANTING 
For successful roses, plant the bushes close together. This permits 
foliage to keep the ground shaded and cool, makes more economical 
use of growing area, and makes culture easier. Fifteen to eighteen 
inches apart is the rule for Hybrid Teas. Taller varieties can be 
placed for best visual effect. 
Instead of waiting until your bushes arrive, it is better to spade 
the soil fifteen to eighteen inches deep several weeks in advance, 
adding plenty of peat or humus. If drainage is needed, install drain- 
tile to carry surplus water away. Guard against your rose bush roots 
drying out from exposure to sun, wind or freezing during planting. 
Do not use chemical fertilizer when planting Wyant Roses; only a 
little bone-meal and a lot of peat or humus should be used at this 
time. Plant your bushes so that the crown is about level with the 
surface of the soil. Whether planting in Spring or Fall, mound soil 
high around the branches immediately after planting to help prevent 
the stems from withering during the time the shoots are becoming 
established. An easy and convenient way of doing this is to use a 
waterproof paper collar. Place it around the bush, tie it, and fill 
with soil. The branches should then be cut off so that not more 
than 3 to 4 inches protrude above the protective mound of soil. 
Remove this mound of soil when the shoots have started out. In 
the event your roses arrive during a Spring rainy spell — plant 
them anyway. Providing the bed has good drainage, roses will 
grow in wet soil equally as well as in dry. 
FEEDING 
In the Spring, apply Wyant Rose Food to the established plants 
but not to newly set roses. Wyant Rose Food is recommended 
because it is composed of 100% organics rather than synthetics. 
Even after long usage Wyant Rose Food does not make the soil 
toxic. Proper fertilizing will produce more blooms. About once a 
month, through the growing season, apply a handful of Wyant 
pln yon 
ROSE GROWING AIDS 
This folder contains Wyant’s own cultural hints to help you 
grow better and more beautiful roses. Also listed are special 
Wyant dusts and foods as well as a complete selection of 
gardening tools, Wyant dust guns, plant markers, shears, 
trellises, books and other rose gardening accessories. 
Rose Food to the soil and work it in the mulch or cultivate it into 
the soil. Do not fertilize after about the first of September. 
PRUNING 
There is acertain amount of strength in the branches and roots of rose 
bushes, so it follows that if they are cut off, that much strength is lost. 
Fall pruning is not recommended. It is a waste of the strength 
that is stored in the branches. Pruning time for Hybrid Teas is 
actually in the Spring and consists of removing dead wood, shorten- 
ing or removing weak growth, and cutting the strong branches down 
to the highest big live bud. After the big June bloom, if there is 
a lot of small twiggy growth on top of the plant, it is well to cut 
it off, down to some good strong growth and just above a well 
developed eye. 
The only pruning given Floribundas is to remove dead wood; or 
if you wish the plant kept low, prune down farther. Hybrid 
Perpetuals can be shortened about one-third. In July, after the first 
big burst of bloom is over, you may prune Climbers and Hybrid 
Perpetuals by cutting out the oldest wood; but pruning is not 
recommended unless the plant is too large. 
Place a drop of tree dressing, shellac or thick white lead on all cut 
ends in the Spring, when pruning is done, to keep out the carpenter 
bee, which makes a hole in the exposed pith. 
WATERING 
If the soil around your roses is kept cultivated, it will seldom need 
watering. However, during an extended drought, soak the ground 
thoroughly for hours and then do not repeat for a week. Stop all 
watering and cultivating about the first of September. 
An application of peat, ground corn cobs or other porous material 
put on in May and left the rest of the season helps to retain 
moisture. It keeps the soil cooler and in better condition for rose 
growing. It may also help in disease control. 
STULG Ke ERas 
Suckers are the wild shoots that occasionally spring up from below 
the point where the bush has been grafted. They can be distinguished 
from flowering shoots by the difference in the leaves. Often the 
thorns on sucker stems are entirely different from those on blooming 
stems. Do not cail every stem with seven leaflets wild, because 
many of the flowering stems also have seven leaflets. A sucker only 
comes from below the graft. As soon as a sucker is discovered, cut 
it off clean from the main plant below the ground, where it 
originates, without leaving a stub which would send up more shoots. 
DISEASE AND INSECT CONTROL 
A little attention and care will remedy the few diseases and insects 
that attack rose plants. Dusting is preferable to spraying. It is 
easier and quicker. Roses can be attacked by insects and disease 
such as aphids, thrip, red spiders, beetles, worm slugs, caterpillars, 
etc., as well as mildew and black-spot. Any and all of these can be 
easily controlled by the proper use of Wyant Multi-Dust. This dust 
contains newly discovered insecticides and is more effective than 
anything ever obtainable in the past. 
Prevent black-spot and mildew by dusting as soon as leaves come 
out and continue about once every week, and more often in rainy 
weather. Apply a light, even coat with a good dust gun on a calm 
evening before the dew, if possible. This care will maintain the 
foliage in healthy condition until frost. If black-spot has been 
prevalent, lime-sulphur used as a disinfectant can be a great help. 
WINTER PROTECTION 
The time-honored method of Winter protection is putting a bank 
of soil around the branches of Hybrid Teas in the late Fall before 
severe freezing occurs. However, Summer protection against dis- 
eases is more important in keeping your roses alive. Bushes going 
into Winter in a good hardened condition, having retained their 
foliage until freezing, will live through the Winter in fine shape, 
even without abundant covering. Keep your roses healthy in 
the Summer. 
. 8 ERE 
