should be removed and the plants 
kept moist. 
To avoid the growth of weeds and 
fungus, it is advisable to sterilize 
the soil with steam or soil fumigants 
before planting, and to water with 
sterilized water until the third leaf 
shows on the small plants. The 
plants may then be watered with 
fresh water for fifteen to twenty 
days before transplanting. 
TRANSPLANTING 
A good mixture for transplanting 
contains two parts of well-decayed 
leaf mold to one part of top soil, 
with a light application of well-de- 
cayed manure. At first the seedlings 
are planted one inch apart, and 
when they become crowded they 
are transplanted again. In five to six 
weeks they will be ready for potting 
or planting in the garden. 
In GARDEN PLANTING, one should 
not “over do” the soil preparation. 
Such practices as digging trenches 
and filling them with loose leaf mold 
should be avoided. The most desira- 
ble soil is fairly loose but yet has 
sufficient body and nutrients to al- 
low the plant to develop. A sandy 
soil requires the application of hu- 
mus, whereas heavy soils require 
sand and leaf mold. 
Begonias can not stand direct sun- 
light during the day (in most areas) , 
therefore it is well to choose sites 
that afford the early morning sun- 
light or the late evening sunlight. 
The more sunlight the plant can re- 
ceive without burning, the more 
flowers may be obtained, and the 
larger the blooms. The Begonias 
should be planted in order that the 
point of the leaves faces the ob- 
server. This is known as facing the 
plant, and it is important if one is 
to see the bloom well. 
After planting, Begonias require 
a minimum of watering during the 
early stages of growth. 
PINCHING 
To attain large flowers on the stand- 
ard or upright type, all shoots should 
be removed except one. This is ac- 
complished by breaking off, at any 
time, the growth that develops from 
the tuber. If you desire to make cut- 
tings, allow the growth to develop 
two to three inches high on the ex- 
tra shoots, then cut off at the tuber 
with a sharp knife, and then by 
planting in sand they will form 
their own tuber in the fall. 
On the hanging basket variety 
started from tubers, all the sprouts 
should be kept and the crown 
pinched from the first main sprout 
when they attain four or five inches 
of growth. This induces the devel- 
opment of the lateral growth, and 
the growth of new sprouts. Lateral 
sprouts should not be pinched; they 
may be pinched before potting or 
soon after potting. Do not pinch the 
plants of the seedling hanging bas- 
ket type the first year, as this does 
not allow time for flower produc- 
tion, and does not allow the tuber 
to develop properly. 
For a full basket of seedlings, it is 
best to put from two to four plants 
in each basket, depending on the 
size of the container. 
See our Hanging Basket 
House illustration on the 
back cover of this catalog: 
to get the color effect of a 
planting of hanging bas- 
ket begonias. 
DROPPING OF BUDS 
Begonias, although hardy and easy 
to grow under favorable conditions, 
are affected by overwatering, too 
dense shade, and lack of air, and as 
a result, will not bloom properly. 
They require fresh-air circulation, 
and will drop their buds and flowers 
in a very few days if kept indoors. 
If the center buds fall before they 
open, it is usually a sign that the 
soil is kept too wet. Care should be 
taken to avoid overwatering. In the 
cooler coastal areas, the use of peat 
moss should be avoided or used 
sparingly. If your plants become 
tall and spindling, with large leaves 
and few flowers, there is insufficient 
light. This may be remedied by re- 
moval to a less-shaded location. 
BEGONIA MILDEW 
Although the mildew problem 
seems on the way out—precautions 
still should be used to avoid the 
possibility of mildew appearing on 
plants. 
Dusting sulphur is the best con- 
trol for begonia mildew and it is 
best to use this regularly every two 
weeks up to blooming time. By us- 
ing a duster and applying lightly, 
the sulphur is hardly noticed on the 
plants. After plants begin to flower, 
you should not use sulphur as you 
will burn the flowers. By keeping 
plants clean and healthy there is 
less chance to contact mildew. 
If mildew appears after plants 
are in bloom, any of the following 
materials should be used as in- 
structed on the bottle: Orthocide 
Fungicide, Doo Spray or Calsul. 
These materials show the least burn 
to flowers and are very effective. 
Copo Tox 10 is a good preventive 
of mildew as well as the best control 
of stem rot with no flower burn. 
“Gosh — It’s cold outside 
[° 9 
SHIPPING NOTICE 
On shipments to the colder climates—we will make 
them in March at the proper time for planting. 
Customers wishing their order in the early part of the 
year will accept shipment at their own risk. 
