Rooted cuttings can be potted into 3” pots, 
but many growers, especially those growing 
the heavier-calipered varieties, pot our rooted 
cuttings directly into 4” pots. 
It is also very practical to pot unrooted 
cuttings directly into good potting soil. In this 
case, potting soil should be sterilized, and be 
sure to add PARZATE (from 10 to 15%) to 
the rooting powder. If no rooting powder is 
used, then dip the entire cutting into a 
PARZATE solution (one level teaspoon per 
gallon of water) before potting. 
SOILS. Geraniums are grown in almost every 
type of soil. However, the most successful 
commercial growers prefer és fibrous friable Fred A. Bode III cultivates with one of three 
loam, as free of clay as possible, adding up to 
50% German or Canadian peatmoss, depena- 
ing upon the humus content of the soil and the 
weather conditions in the grower’s area—the dryer the weather, the more peatmoss. To each 
cubic yard of the above mixture, add 10 lbs. of dolomite, 5 Ibs. of superphosphate, and 7 to 
10 Ibs. of a good ‘’complete’’ organic base fertilizer, with an analysis of about 10-=10-D.e<[ He 
analysis is not too important, as long as it is an organic base. If, like commercial Vigoro, the 
analysis is a little higher, the lesser amount (7 \lbs.) can be used. 
Dolomite supplies calcium and magnesium, both important to geraniums, and offsets the 
low pH of the peatmoss. Superphosphate supplies phosphorus and contains most of the trace 
elements in minor quantities, and should be added to the potting soil as it is difficult to get a 
good supply of phosphorus to the roots once the plant is potted. Some growers prefer to use 
bonemeal, which may be substituted for the superphosphate. The organic fertilizer will supply 
organic nitrates and, in the case of most soils, ample potash. If the soil is naturally deficient 
in potash, the addition of a pound of sulphate of potash will help. 
Especially for fast spring growing, the UCLA mix is very fine. Reprints of “’A Standardized 
Soil Mix for Geraniums’’, by Philip A. Chandler, from ‘‘Geraniums Around the World’, are 
available free from the University of California, Los Angeles 45. This mix will produce a plant 
faster than any other method, but requires regular feedings according to directions. LTSets 
one mix that should be used immediately upon mixing; otherwise, a build-up of detrimental 
ammonias may occur. 
Leafmold is a good source of organic food. However, if it is used, be sure to watch the 
nitrate level, as the leafmold will ‘‘burn’’ nitrates as it decomposes. Leafmold will also continue 
to form acids, lowering the pH. The use of calcium nitrate solution will offset both troubles. 
Some growers use dairy manure in their soils. It has a good pH factor for geraniums, but 
be careful that it is well-rotted and thoroughly mixed into the soil, as it is not uncommon to 
find single plants throughout a fine looking batch of 2% or 3’’-pot geraniums dying from the 
base upward. Upon inspection, it will be found that a small lump of manure, still giving off 
ammonia gas, will be the cause of the lost plants. 
STARVATION. All food chemicals should be present in proper proportion, and the ab- 
sence of any one will cause a form of chlorosis or show some other sign of deficiency. The lack 
of nitrogen and a pH below 5.5 are the two worst offenders. Plants starved of nitrogen look 
poor for a while and then become diseased and die. How quickly this happens, depends upon 
diseases present. A pH below 5.5 causes geraniums to stop taking in phosphorus; the entire 
plant wilts and drops its leaves; 2 oz. of Dolomite or 1 oz. lime to 1 gallon of water will cor- 
rect the pH condition, or 2 oz. of calcium nitrate if the nitrogen is also low. Cuttings taken 
from plants low in nitrates will often root almost 100%, but the percentage of survival depends 
upon just how low the nitrogen level is. Cuttings of low nitrogen plants die before or after 
rooting from the base upward in long back streaks. The actual death of the cuttings is from 
induced stem rot. 
90% of what is often diagnosed as ‘’virus’’, is actually due not to disease, but to soil 
deficiencies or excesses. Serious true virus is seldom seen in stock of responsible growers. If 
it is present, true virus may become activated under adverse conditions, such as poor food, 
lack of light, too wet, or a low pH. 
Practically all ‘“virus’’ appears during the month of January when there is poor photo- 
synthesis due to a minimum of light, and low bacterial action, due to the cold weather, resulting 
in no nitrification and the absence of organic nitrogen. Improper nitrification often causes a 
build-up of ammonias in the soil. Some growers prefer to use an organic-type chemical, such 
as urea, for feeding (Y2 oz. per gallon of water) after the first of December. : 
aah, ha 
tractors used in our geranium farming. 
