1 Ava., 1902.] QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. 115 
ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 
By WILLIAM GRAVE. 
Different people have different methods and ideas in hatching ducklings 
and chickens. My way may not appear quite right to a great number, but ’m 
not trying to teach those “who know’”—am merely giving my mode of 
“ Artificial Incubation” for the benefit of numerous inquiries received on 
above subject, and for those who think they may gain something by reading 
my remarks. However, I think my method the very best so far, and will now 
endeavour to enlighten you on the subject. 
I have studied “the hatching problem” from beginning to end, have 
experimented with the natural way and artificial way, and find the only safe 
criterion to go by is the “air cell.” The first thing necessary is a reliable 
incubator—a machine one may trust; a machine with proper ventilation, a 
reliable capsule or thermortatic bar ; a machine that is self-regulating ; one 
that will not be affected by outside temperature ; one that will not warp or 
crack; and a machine that will distribute moisture to every corner of egg-drawer. 
T have tried nearly every make of machine on the market, both hot air and 
water machines, and find the water machines best. With a hot-water machine, 
should the light go out, the eggs will be kept warm for a considerable time, and 
have less chance of being spoilt ; but with a hot-air incubator, should the light 
go out, it cools very quickly, and has a better chance of chilling the eggs and 
spoiling one’s batch. The two very best machines I find are George Stanes’ 
Perfected Excelsior, hot water, and Dobeson’s Zenith, also hot water—the 
former an American machine; the latter, aSydney-made machine. Well, say 
we have a good incubator; the next thing is a suitable place to stand and 
workit. An incubator with luck may be worked nearly anywhere, but we must 
not trust to luck; it may serve us a dirty trick. What we require is a good 
cellar, room, or shed ; must be free from draughts, but well ventilated; and do 
not go in for any fancy floors, such as cement, asphalt, boards, &c. Take my 
advice and set your incubator on Nature’s floor—‘“‘ the ground.’ We want to 
work to Nature as near as possible; therefore there is no necessity for any 
artificial floor. Have all ventilation in the room entering above your incubators ; 
otherwise, coming into the room from below or directly in line with the incubator, 
the draught is apt to put the lamp out. Well, we have our incubator fixed up 
in our room; the next thing we require is eggs, and good eggs at that. Never 
set ongs all shapes and sizes; avoid crinkly shells; also chalky shells—that is 
eggs that feel very chalky to the touch; and always wash eggs in luke-warm 
water and wipe dry before setting. Eggs will stand a deal of usage before 
setting, but after they are set one must not take liberties with them, though 
they may be handled to a fair extent. Another thing; I do not believe 
in keeping eggs for setting for two weeks, though I have 
kept them twice as long with good results. Set your eggs as fresh 
as you possibly can; set all good-shaped and good-shelled eggs, and all of a 
uniform size if possible; never put forty eggs in a machine to-day, twenty 
to-morrow, and so on; get all you want to hatch in together ; it is bad policy 
to start then add more later on. One should always try the machine for a few 
days before trusting it with eggs ; get full control of it empty, then put eggs in— 
jt is the safer way. I have known people to buy an incubator, fill it with good 
ges and let it take its chance, get bad results, then blame the machine, and 
why? Simply because they never knew the lamp from the wick, let alone the 
capsule, &c. However, say you have started your machine on Ist of month, 
close it up and do not touch your eggs until the 3rd, then turn and cool eggs 
slightly, close incubator door while eggs are out being turned ; attend to your 
lamp every morning, fill it twice a day ; be sure and havea reliable thermometer 
and always place it in centre of drawer with bulb end resting between two 
fertile eggs. You will say, “‘ How can we tell fertile eggs?” I will tell you 
directly. Eggs should be cooled from five minutes to half-an-hour as hatch 
progresses. Do not be afraid to leave them out for a while, as the old hen 
